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UBER-STEALTH Under Floor Sub Install

rjohnson5481

Ready to race!
Yes thank you. I am going from lc2i to jl audio amp. And I got the wire color scheme from another diy thread. I don't have dynaudio and I have the basic rns-510

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

If you've got the scheme then just tap them and run them into the LC2I. The LC2I will output RCA into your Amp.
 

aregister

Ready to race!
So I routed everything and turned the key but the amp didn't turn on. I don't have a remote wire run but I shouldn't need one due to the lc2i right? I can take a pic of how its setup so u know where I'm at

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

aregister

Ready to race!
Here is how my amp looks. sorry its upside down

How do I wire the remote cable from lc2i to amp? What kind of plug in is that, ethernet?
 

rjohnson5481

Ready to race!
Here is how my amp looks. sorry its upside down

How do I wire the remote cable from lc2i to amp? What kind of plug in is that, ethernet?

You will still need to run a trigger wire for the amp to power on, it should be coming from the LC2I. The manual of the LC2I mentions a 12c trigger wire which will run to the Amp. If you're really stuck let me know i can give you my number and text you... it'll be much faster than this.
 

rjohnson5481

Ready to race!
You will still need to run a trigger wire for the amp to power on, it should be coming from the LC2I. The manual of the LC2I mentions a 12c trigger wire which will run to the Amp. If you're really stuck let me know i can give you my number and text you... it'll be much faster than this.

To further clarify the ethernet port like connection you're referring to is for a knob that can be ran to the front of the vehicle to turn down the amp manually.
 

VanCityR

New member
Been contemplating this for some time, but a few n00bish questions first:

Got a '13 Golf R with a 510RNS unit, so I assume all will work here (with the exception my 10 will have to be on the passenger side).

1. Apparently there is the option to go with the TS-SW3001 or the TS-SW2501. Can anyone chime in as to whether the 3001 might be worth it? Or do i go with the MB Quart?
2. I assume I need the S2 (2Ω) and not the S4 (4Ω)?
3. There was some discussion as to polyfill. Does this go in the sub box?
4. Is the JL Audio XD300/1 still the best amp for the job, or is there something "better" out there?
5. Has anyone felt the need to use dynamat or some other sound deadening on any part of the car?
 
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BathroomTile

New member
Been contemplating this for some time, but a few n00bish questions first:

Got a '13 Golf R with a 510RNS unit, so I assume all will work here (with the exception my 10 will have to be on the passenger side).

1. Apparently there is the option to go with the TS-SW3001 or the TS-SW2501. Can anyone chime in as to whether the 3001 might be worth it? Or do i go with the MB Quart?
2. I assume I need the S2 (2Ω) and not the S4 (4Ω)?
3. There was some discussion as to polyfill. Does this go in the sub box?
4. Is the JL Audio XD300/1 still the best amp for the job, or is there something "better" out there?
5. Has anyone felt the need to use dynamat or some other sound deadening on any part of the car?

I plan on doing this mod within the next year, so any responses to this would be great.
 

Johnny Two Tone

Ready to race!
Been contemplating this for some time, but a few n00bish questions first:

Got a '13 Golf R with a 510RNS unit, so I assume all will work here (with the exception my 10 will have to be on the passenger side).

1. Apparently there is the option to go with the TS-SW3001 or the TS-SW2501. Can anyone chime in as to whether the 3001 might be worth it? Or do i go with the MB Quart?
2. I assume I need the S2 (2Ω) and not the S4 (4Ω)?
3. There was some discussion as to polyfill. Does this go in the sub box?
4. Is the JL Audio XD300/1 still the best amp for the job, or is there something "better" out there?
5. Has anyone felt the need to use dynamat or some other sound deadening on any part of the car?

1)The Pioneer sub has been determined to be the best choice, from what I've read (so, don't get the MB Quart). I have the Pioneer TS-SW2501 and it does exactly what I wanted to get out of the system. I would not go bigger than 10" for a Stealth box because the bigger the sub the taller the box needs to be and so the hatch floor is raised accordingly, which could create a problem.

2)Nik recommends the S2. If you use a digital amp that regulates the ohms than it is irrelevant (I'm using an Alpine PDX amp, for example), so it's better to get the S2 to cover bases in case you require it. But, either way check your amp to make sure it runs 2ohms stable.

3)Polyfill would go in the box if you test it and find that it has a positive effect. I haven't used polyfill and I don't feel like I would need to fool around with it.

4)That amp is definitely a good choice. People could go on all day about this amp or that, but it's an amp. Get the one that outputs the required RMS wattage, is small enough to fit where-ever you plan on putting it, has the control you require, and is in the price range you can afford. Then call it a day.

5)Sound deadening the doors is a MUST, in my opinion (I also deadened the hatch floor [spare tire area] but I don't know that I would call that area a "must", per se). The thing is the part of the doors that you need to deaden is the inner side of the outer door skins, and it's a massive pain in the ass. It's totally worth the effort, but the effort required is great. I don't believe that deadening the car's floor is worth it. I completely dismantled my interior to do my whole car's audio system but when I got to the point where I could have taken out the carpeting I thought, "Nope, not worth it." It would not have enhanced the audio. It would have, at most, lessened some road noise. But, at what cost of time and money?
 

RTownsend

Passed Driver's Ed

Malibuboats91

Ready to race!
Sorry to bring up this old thread, but when you guys were tuning your lc2i and subwoofer amp did you disconnect the factory speakers? I'm in the process of tuning everything and I always would unplug the door speakers when setting up my sub, but by keeping the head unit stock its not as easy as it was in my old car.
 

veedoubleme

Go Kart Champion
I did not disconnect my factory speakers when tuning the sub, because it'd be a big pain in the ass.
 

Malibuboats91

Ready to race!
I did not disconnect my factory speakers when tuning the sub, because it'd be a big pain in the ass.

Thanks for the quick response! What I ended up doing is I disconnected the wiring harness for the head unit then popped out the block for the speakers. I determined what pins go to what speaker and ran two temporary lines back to the lc2i to tune that and my sub. It worked really well and I didn't risk blowing my speakers.

PS: Thanks for all the info you provided on here. It helped me a lot with my install!
 

Paul_R

New member
Hi everyone, this is the best thread in the works for upgrade advice on the Mk 6. I have an LC2i and JL Audio XD200 with the 8" Pioneer in one of Nick's boxes. I have the Dynaudio option. Works well but would go with a 10" if doing it again.

With the Mk 7 now on order it's time to look at upgrading the stereo. In Australia there is no Dynaudio option so we just get Discover Media with its 4x20 or whatever.

Audiotech Fischer do plug play options which look similar to the dealer fitted Helix system. I could go the whole hog and get an Audison Bit Ten, a JL Audio XD 700/5, new front components and a 10" sub. But I'm wondering if I could go half way and re use my LC2i with the XD200 and a new sub plus another 2 channel amp running off the LC2i to new front components leaving the head unit to run the rears for fill. I'd run the LC2i off the front speakers this time.

Cost wise it would be a fair bit cheaper but does anyone think it would be good enough? Is the Bit Ten going to make a huge difference?
Cheers
 

VanCityR

New member
Yeah, the main constant amp power feeds the power to the LC2i, which feeds remote turn on back to the amp. Works slick, and cuts down on the amount of wire. I braided the wires for no reason other than it seemed like a fun idea at the time, but you can see the 12v constant, ground, and remote wires all go from the LC2i to the same terminals on the amp.


Thanks! I like getting nerdy. :D



I'm trying to wire this same setup, but I am a little confused by the pictures.

1. The remote wire that you tapped from the 12v in the back. Did you scrap it because it wasn't needed, thanks to the LC2I?

2. I see you have two wires coming from the Amp's "mono subwoofer output" (+). I assume these go to the black and red inputs on the end of the uberstealth box, and it doesn't matter which one goes to red? Did you find that it was tight between these inputs and the tool box when its all put together?

3. Maybe they are well hidden in the pic, but the speaker wires you tapped going to the LC2i speaker inputs right? I assume so, but when I zoom on the pic it gets fuzzy :)

Thanks for the DIY!
 
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