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Old 09-08-2016, 03:33 PM   #29
gtimk6spd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewalkingdad View Post
I think most coils will lower the car, but many are adjustable. You can get a pretty mild drop if you want to adjust it that way. Admittedly, suspension isn't my strong suite though.
It seems that way, but I'm in the same boat as you. Suspension is not my strong suit. The main reason I don't want it lowered is due to having lived on dirt roads and Michigan roads most of my life. So ground clearance, especially in the winter, was a godsend. Besides that though I don't particularly like the look of it. But if it's something like a 1/2 in drop I'm sure I'll adjust to it.
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:29 PM   #30
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I got my NewSouth Performance boost gauge in. I'm pretty sure I got some poorly molded pieces because this isn't going well. I worked in plastic injection molding and it looks as if the tabs for the slats that click into the bezel are less than full. I could be wrong, but they definitely do not snap into the bezel, the stock slats snap in with ease. The boost gauge also is shorter than the vent pod making it impossible to use the rubber band included to secure it in place (as the instructions show).

Now I may be a bit daft with this install, but so far I am unimpressed. I might just get some JB Weld and make this work, but as a permanent install.

Not sure how to solid mount the boost gauge in the pod:


One tab looks really short:


The other tab is "melted" away:





So it doesn't snap in place, but I'll make it work with some JB Weld. It's currently curing now. Once the engine cools down I'm going to take out the battery and route the boost line. Hopefully I'll have this job done today.
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Last edited by gtimk6spd; 09-10-2016 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Added images.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:57 PM   #31
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Well I got everything wired up and put together. I had a few scares in the process, but Google fixed me up real quick. I had a TCS error as well as my windows not auto rolling up/down. Easily remedied thankfully.

Here's the gauge installed, kind of blurry in the first photo. The second photo shows this gauge doesn't rest at 0 when the car is off, but slightly under. A bit upsetting but I wanted a boost gauge that looked stock and this was as close as I found. So overall I'm happy with the purchase, but I wouldn't say it was a 5/5 purchase.


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Old 09-10-2016, 10:40 PM   #32
thewalkingdad
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Looks good. Too bad it rests under 0. That would bug me too.

How much did it cost you and how long to install?
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:02 AM   #33
gtimk6spd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewalkingdad View Post
Looks good. Too bad it rests under 0. That would bug me too.

How much did it cost you and how long to install?
Thanks! I was searching around and actually found what may be a fix on the MKV portion of this site http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47467

It's still unfortunate it isn't correct from purchase, but it gives me hope I can do something about it. Maybe later this week I'll give it a shot.

The gauge + pod was $135 and then $11 for shipping. The actual install took about 1.5 hours of actual work. I did have to run to the hardware store and use some plastic epoxy to keep the new slats in place. So between that run, letting everything dry, and running back and forth from my apartment for tools it did take longer. However if everything went well it shouldn't take more than 90 minutes. They have instructions, but I'll still type how I did it (unfortunately I was too excited to take pictures, maybe later?).

Popping the vent out was easy. I opened the fuse box panel on the left of the dash (open your driver door to access it). Then there was a tab on the bottom of the vent; once pushed upward it popped the bottom left of the vent out. I did not see this tab, I literally stuck my hand in the open panel and found it almost immediately with a small amount of force. A small flathead screwdriver (or better yet, a non-marring bone tool) will get the bottom right of the vent out. You can see a little silver tab peeking out and you just press up on that. Then the vent just lifts/tilts up and out.

There were 7 tabs I believe to take the bezel off. 3 on top, 2 on the sides, 2 on the bottom. The bottom were hard to do and I had no thin/long flathead so I used a really small hex key to pop them off. I would recommend doing the top first, sides second, and bottom last.

The old horizontal slats are held in by 2 tabs, one on the left and one on the right. Pop those out using your fingers to slightly widen the housing and they'll come right out. Then the vertical slats behind the front horizontal ones come out with 4 tabs? I essentially just widened the vent casing with my hands and they came right out. I didn't bother trying to use a screwdriver here either.

I used a knife to create a hole in the right side of the vent housing so I could install the rubber grommet. That allows the boost line and 3 electrical wires to go through the vent housing. I didn't have a drill on hand, but it's not the first time I've used a knife to bore a hole in plastic for grommets. It works surprisingly well.

The new slats/gauge pod going into the bezel should snap in like the original slats. Mine didn't. But a few minutes of some epoxy and about an hour of letting it sit had me ready to go.

Next I put the boost gauge in the new pod. Since I wasn't sure how to secure it according to NewSouth's instructions I found a temporary solution. Using the rubber band they give (wide, flat black rubber band essentially) I put it over the gauge and the pod slot on the vent outside the housing. If you look at my last two pictures closely you'll see a matte black around the gloss black ventpod. That's the rubber band. I e-mailed NewSouth and will see how they would recommend fitting this.

I put the rubber hose on the back nipple of the boost gauge, and the other included one on the plastic adapter for where the boost tap goes. The larger hose went onto the other side of the boost tap. Then I used some long and thin sharp tool to get inside the unused port on the intake and, like my knife, made a small hole. A screw will work too, or anything sharp. You just don't want to push plastic into the intake. I cleared out the plastic debris and installed the boost tap.

Next I took out the battery so I could install the actual boost line. The battery comes out easily. There are videos to easily show how to take this out. Essentially there are three parts to the shroud covering the battery. They all have tabs (1 for the top, 2 for both the front and back halves) and lift right out. There is also one 13mm battery tie down which is easily accessed, with an intake, by simply moving the intake to the side. Removing it also works.

Anyway with the battery out you can see almost directly behind it is a wiring harness going through the firewall. There are extra rubber nipples you can cut off to route the boost line through, but mine had a tear in the rubber grommet and I just used that. I pushed the boost line through about 2 feet and replaced the battery. Back inside the car in the footwell I easily found the boost line sticking through. From there I placed a small flashlight on top of the fusebox (the one accessed earlier to begin removing the vent). This shines light down so you can see where to try and guide the hose up. I didn't have a coat hanger, but was able to get the line up between the car and fuze box within about 2 minutes. I grabbed it with a finger and pulled it further out. From there it's easy to feed into the vent opening.

Next I fed the boost gauge wires through the rest of the vent housing using the grommet inserted earlier. I pulled these down to where I removed the headlight control switch. That comes out easily too. With it in the off position you push the toggle in and turn it to the right. The housing comes out and the electrical connector easily comes out. Splice the three wires with the little clamps provided and you're good to have a dimming boost gauge. The wires leading to the stock headlight switch has a wrap around it, all you have to do is shove it back a few inches and you can easily enough tap into the wires. Black boost wire to brown headlight wire, red boost wire to black and purple headlight wire, yellow boost wire to gray headlight wire. Then simply push the wires back into the headlight switch housing hole and replace the actual toggle switch assembly. Push it in, turn the toggle to the left.

With that done I fed the boost line through the same grommet in the vent tunnel housing and pushed it into the rubber hose on the back of the vent pod. Since all of the wiring and boost line routed right near the fuze box, I pulled on them gently as I snapped the bezel/slats into the rest of the vent tunnel housing. I continued to do this as I put the whole assembly back into place. Basically just by pushing the whole vent assembly back into the hole in the dash. A little smack in the corners and it looks like it should, flush and no gaps. I tied up the extra wires in the fuze box area and closed that back up.

That's it. My explanation is long and probably repetitive, but maybe it'll have a step or some wording that helps someone in the future.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:26 AM   #34
thewalkingdad
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Not a bad price overall, or time commitment. Too bad you had to Macgyver that thing though. Good write up.
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Old 09-11-2016, 01:26 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewalkingdad View Post
Not a bad price overall, or time commitment. Too bad you had to Macgyver that thing though. Good write up.
Thanks, I'll report back when NewSouth responds on the issues I had too.

One last piece of advice for anyone who has a Carbonio intake. There is a tube you install that is too long and will kink your boost line. This picture shows an arrow to the piece you need to shorten, and a red circle where it will kink. In this picture I have already cut about 1/2" off the tube so the kink isn't so severe. I plan to get either an elbow or longer tube so I can maneuver it better. This is to no fault of NewSouth, but rather something to keep in mind if you do the install with this combo.

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Old 09-12-2016, 04:36 PM   #36
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I received a new filter for my intake today. I am pretty sure you can clean out the filter in the Carbonio... but I honestly don't think the previous owner ever cleaned this one out. Take a look at the difference!



My butt dyno says this helped with some throttle lag and I swear I can hear the intake slightly more. Whether or not either of these are true, it was time for a replacement.
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:53 AM   #37
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Quick little update. My car is still in the shop. The install of things I wanted went well overall. The TOP isn't going in right now, and I do have an issue elsewhere in the car. Best case scenario I just need a new PCV valve and I get the car tomorrow. Worst case, and I don't remember exactly what it is, I'll need the transmission dropped again and some things replaced.

However I do have some pictures showing some differences between the Neuspeed FMIC and the ARM Motorsports FMIC I purchased. All credit goes to Wideopentuning for taking the photos (works at the shop where my car is being serviced), but in case anyone missed it here is a side by side comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wideopentuning View Post
I had a chance to see an Arm and Neuspeed side by side today.
No real skin in this game. I have an APR intercooler. Interesting though.











Neuspeed Core


ARM
There are differences and that should be expected for a product at about half the price. It's just being shown so there is more to compare when deciding on a FMIC. Of course a dyno with each of these intercoolers on the same setup/same day would prove even more useful... if this becomes a possibility/reality the dyno charts will be posted regardless of which one comes out the winner. I expect the Neuspeed to be more efficient, but I don't know. I would like to see actual data, and would love to share it if possible.
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:57 PM   #38
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Since the TOP isn't going in this visit to the shop, I'm having an APR Catch Can put in. I didn't think I'd splurge on one of these, but hopefully it provides some benefit in the long run.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:56 PM   #39
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I just drove my car home and have to say I am very impressed! I have to take it relatively easy for the clutch, but it doesn't mean I don't notice a difference already. In corners the LSD just works. My car literally seems transformed and holds to the ground so much better.
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Old 09-24-2016, 01:23 AM   #40
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I'm really glad you are enjoying the upgrades
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:58 PM   #41
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Quote:
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I'm really glad you are enjoying the upgrades
Thank you! I am at 200 miles on the clutch with mostly city/stop and go traffic. Another few days and I can really get a feel for the power!
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:04 PM   #42
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I was finally able to do a full pull in 2nd gear and instantly threw a CEL for P302. I'm now on the hunt to figure out why this showed up. Maybe I just have a faulty plug or coil.
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