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Old 11-05-2017, 08:15 PM   #29
FriggenT
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[quote=hbrown0509;2557505]
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Honestly, the ihi turbos have had wastegate flap issues, where the cleavis pin (i believe that's what it's called) causes the flap to rattle and even cause boost issues. If I were to check anything, I think I would do that next, simply because you can just unbolt the DP, move it to the side, and check that flap. If the flap opens, the ecu will sense it, thus compensate for it, which could POSSIBLY cause your issue. [\QUOTE]



Does the DP have to be unbolted to check the WGA?


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Well, you can feel play in the WGA rod sometimes I think, but they are fairly tight, humble mechanic did a YouTube video on it and on the fix, but said it wouldn't ultimately fix the issue entirely.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:24 PM   #30
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Well, you can feel play in the WGA rod sometimes I think, but they are fairly tight, humble mechanic did a YouTube video on it and on the fix, but said it wouldn't ultimately fix the issue entirely.


Yeah I watched the video you shared and noticed that it was him, so legit source, and luckily for him the turbo was off the car making it easy to show. I did notice sometime ago that the clip is already on the actuator so VW must have put it on at some point either beforehand buying it or during service. Last month I had it at the tuning shop and he performed the smoke test which found no leaks. I made sure to ask about the WGA then and was told that he did check it to find no play in it.

I still want to check it as well. Just havenít had the time recently.


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Old 11-06-2017, 12:20 AM   #31
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Sorry i know this is an old post, but also stage 2 GIAC and getting and getting the exact same issues. Been chasing it for months back and forth to my tuner shop. Boost leak free, new stock DV, turbo muffler delete, among basic bolt on mods and getting the oscillations. Similar to the video that was shared but worse. Iíve been wondering if the n75 has been the culprit? My shop has done many logs a dyno day and still think it could be software related. Race file doesnít fix my issue either. Only problem now is that his dyno is down for a while for some part and wonít be able to get all the logs done. Almost tempted to just buy a new n75 and see what happens.

To the APR people having this issue, at least you guys arenít alone whether itís software or a hardware related issue. Iíve been dealing with mine for ever it seems and am exhausted by it. Car is not even fun to drive past 3rd gear.

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I'm just reading your response now.....I would recommend buying a new n75 and replacing it yourself, if possible. I know I stated it was a PITA but as long as you have patience and mechanical know-how, you can do it. Especially if you tackled the Turbo muffler delete (you were half way there to swap out the n75).
I also thought my waste gate was bad and also threw no codes during the fluctuation issue. And...I cleaned my MAF and MAP senors thinking these could be the problem but the issue was still there and very apparent/annoying. (MAP was oily.) I ordered an OEM n75 around $75 shipped then took my time and changed it. (Car battery remained plugged during the swap.) The fluctuation was gone immediately during the test drive and I've been fluctuation free for over a year now.
Definitely not saying our issues are the same but a n75 relatively inexpensive in comparison to a new turbo (or K04) so it might be worth a try.

Good luck!
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:41 AM   #32
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I'm just reading your response now.....I would recommend buying a new n75 and replacing it yourself, if possible. I know I stated it was a PITA but as long as you have patience and mechanical know-how, you can do it. Especially if you tackled the Turbo muffler delete (you were half way there to swap out the n75).
I also thought my waste gate was bad and also threw no codes during the fluctuation issue. And...I cleaned my MAF and MAP senors thinking these could be the problem but the issue was still there and very apparent/annoying. (MAP was oily.) I ordered an OEM n75 around $75 shipped then took my time and changed it. (Car battery remained plugged during the swap.) The fluctuation was gone immediately during the test drive and I've been fluctuation free for over a year now.
Definitely not saying our issues are the same but a n75 relatively inexpensive in comparison to a new turbo (or K04) so it might be worth a try.

Good luck!
It's definitely not easy to get to those to do all that needs to be done however, they can sometimes get caked with oil and sludge. I havent heard of a never car having one go bad for a while though.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:50 AM   #33
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I'm just reading your response now.....I would recommend buying a new n75 and replacing it yourself, if possible. I know I stated it was a PITA but as long as you have patience and mechanical know-how, you can do it. Especially if you tackled the Turbo muffler delete (you were half way there to swap out the n75).

I also thought my waste gate was bad and also threw no codes during the fluctuation issue. And...I cleaned my MAF and MAP senors thinking these could be the problem but the issue was still there and very apparent/annoying. (MAP was oily.) I ordered an OEM n75 around $75 shipped then took my time and changed it. (Car battery remained plugged during the swap.) The fluctuation was gone immediately during the test drive and I've been fluctuation free for over a year now.

Definitely not saying our issues are the same but a n75 relatively inexpensive in comparison to a new turbo (or K04) so it might be worth a try.



Good luck!


Yeah just just get the turbo muffler removed I remember I had to disconnect a hose of the N75 to get to One of the bolts (I have decently big hands) and getting it back on was a pain.

I feel like dealing with the N75 again would be worth it if it solves the issue. I donít get any codes at all when the fluctuations and hesitation happens. With all the blow by oil that you find in the charge pipe and DV it wouldnít be much of a surprise how these can get clogged. I just feel like if it was the wastegate wouldnít it be throwing codes? Also from when it was logged last it seems to be holding pressure fine.


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Old 11-06-2017, 10:00 AM   #34
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Yeah just just get the turbo muffler removed I remember I had to disconnect a hose of the N75 to get to One of the bolts (I have decently big hands) and getting it back on was a pain.

I feel like dealing with the N75 again would be worth it if it solves the issue. I donít get any codes at all when the fluctuations and hesitation happens. With all the blow by oil that you find in the charge pipe and DV it wouldnít be much of a surprise how these can get clogged. I just feel like if it was the wastegate wouldnít it be throwing codes? Also from when it was logged last it seems to be holding pressure fine.


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What do you peak and hold now?
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Old 11-06-2017, 03:31 PM   #35
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What do you peak and hold now?


Use to be around 18. Not sure anymore as the fluctuations make it hard to measure.


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Old 11-06-2017, 04:23 PM   #36
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Use to be around 18. Not sure anymore as the fluctuations make it hard to measure.


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Stock IC?
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Old 11-06-2017, 04:24 PM   #37
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Stock IC?


No, Unitronic


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Old 11-06-2017, 07:55 PM   #38
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No, Unitronic


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Ok, so approximately double the internal volume of stock, so your WGA which iirc is 4 psi on the ihi is going to have a hard time holding under boost
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:17 PM   #39
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Ok, so approximately double the internal volume of stock, so your WGA which iirc is 4 psi on the ihi is going to have a hard time holding under boost


Is it because itís too weak to hold the extra volume?


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Old 11-06-2017, 09:28 PM   #40
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Is it because itís too weak to hold the extra volume?


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Do you hear the WG flutter at peak boost? Sounds like a pressure cooker?
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:42 PM   #41
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Do you hear the WG flutter at peak boost? Sounds like a pressure cooker?


Thankfully no


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Old 11-07-2017, 03:06 AM   #42
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Thankfully no


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Then you're probably ok, but if that flapper door is hung up, broken, etc, then you'll have a boost leak that the ECU will attempt to compensate for and you'll get major fluctuations
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