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Old 03-26-2017, 09:33 PM   #1
Rickybobbi
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engine light came on yay

driving today and noticed my car wont Rev past 3000k..then 5 to 10 min later engine light came on. waiting on my friend to scan it to see what's going on. anyone have this problem before?

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Old 03-27-2017, 12:15 AM   #2
MLue1
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Yup, last fall when I drove through a huge puddle I couldnt rev past 3K and the CEL with Knock Sensor code came up. I cleared the code and waited for a day for it to dry out and everything has been good since. The knock sensors on the MK5 gave more problems than on the MK6, I think they rewrote the software to not be as sensitive. The knock sensors are very sensitive even the installation toeque has to be correct, not too high or the error code comes up.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:48 AM   #3
Rickybobbi
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knock sensor 2. my buddy cleared the code hopefully it won't come back on...fingers crossed

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Old 03-27-2017, 01:51 AM   #4
Rickybobbi
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weird it reved to 4000 after I cleared the code then driving when back to can't pass 3000. is this something covered under warranty? no light on yet tho.

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Old 03-27-2017, 11:53 AM   #5
MLue1
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If you in a hurry take it in, but Id wait a day or so.

Knock sensors are not expensive or difficult to install, just make sure to use a good torque wrench and dialectric grease on the connection.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:05 PM   #6
Rickybobbi
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ya gonna wait till at least the weekend. I have no time to go during the week cuz of work. I have no clue how to change it let alone know where it is. I'll have to get someone to do it for me.

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Old 03-27-2017, 03:22 PM   #7
FlowMK6
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Found on VWVortex:

Quote:
DIY= Remove anything in the way, remove old knock sensor, prep block surface with fine emery cloth, spray area with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, mount new sensor with new bolt finger tight, using the proper size torque wrench without extensions torque to exactly 20nm, spray area again with brake cleaner to clean any residual grease/oil, re-connect electrical connector, re-install any removed parts, clear codes with vagcom, start car and enjoy. Log codes if needed.
Source: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post82311900

Also, he you have VCDS, maybe this could help you on diagnosing, it's for the passat but could works with golf for sure.

Quote:
VAG 1551/1552 scan tool with VAG 1551/3 adapter cable

VAG 1598/18 test box

Multimeter (Fluke 83 or equivalent)

Connector test kit VW 1594

Wiring diagram

Test sequence

Engine running at idle

- Connect VAG 1551/1552 scan tool and select "Engine Electronics" with address word 01 Page 01-7 .

Rapid data transfer HELP

Select function XX

Indicated on display
- Press buttons -0- and -8- to select "Read Measuring Value Block" function 08 and press -Q- button to confirm input.

Read Measuring Value Block HELP

Input display group number XXX

Indicated on display
- Press buttons -0-, -4- and -5- to input display group 045 (cylinders 1-4), or press buttons -0-, -4- and -6- to input display group 046 (cylinders 5 and 6), and press -Q- button to confirm input.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-20

Read Measuring Value Block 45

1 2 3 4

Indicated on display (1-4 = display fields)
Note:
The check must be carried out during a test drive as the knock control is only active with an engine load exceeding 3 ms.
- Carry out a test drive and observe the knock control specifications on display (second technician necessary).

Display fields

1
2
3
4

Display group 045: Knock control

Display
xx.xx
xx.xx
xx.xx
xx.xx

Indicated
Ignition angle correction cylinder 1
Ignition angle correction cylinder 2
Ignition angle correction cylinder 3
Ignition angle correction cylinder 4

Working range
0.0 - 15.0
0.0 - 15.0
0.0 - 15.0
0.0 - 15.0

Specification
0.0 - 12.0
0.0 - 12.0
0.0 - 12.0
0.0 - 12.0


If specification is not attained Page 28-21 , evaluating display group 045 and 046

- Read the readiness code Page 01-31 . If DTC memory has been erased, verify repair via appropriate display group Page 01-33 , Readiness code, creating.
- Press button.
- Press buttons -0- and -6- to select "End Output" function 06 and press -Q- button to confirm input.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-21

Evaluating display group 045 and 046

Display group: 045
Display field: 1-4
Possible malfunction cause
Malfunction elimination

Display group: 046
Display field: 1-2

All cylinders more than 12
Knock Sensor (KS) faulty
- Continuation Page 28-22


Connector corroded



Knock sensor not correctly torqued
- Loosen knock sensor and torqued to 20 Nm (15 ft lb)


Attached components on engine loose
- Tighten attached components


Poor fuel quality
- Change type of fuel

One cylinder deviates greatly from the others
Connector corroded
- Continued Page 28-22


Engine damage
- Check compression pressure:
Repair Manual, 2.8 Liter VR6 2V Engine Mechanical, Engine Code(s): AAA, Repair Group 13


Attached components on engine loose
- Tighten attached components


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-22

Continuation

- Separate white 3-pin connector to Knock Sensor (KS) 1 -G61- (arrow).

- Measure resistance between terminals 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 on KS connector.
Specification: ohms ()

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-23

- Connect VAG 1598/18 test box to ECM wiring harness (arrow).

- Check wiring between test box and white 3-pin connector for open circuit according to wiring diagram.
Terminal 1 and test box socket 34
Terminal 2 and test box socket 33
Terminal 3 and test box socket 56

Resistance: max. 1.5 ohms ()

Additionally, check wires for short to one another.
Terminal 3 and test box socket 34
Terminal 3 and test box socket 33
Terminal 2 and test box socket 34
Specification: ohms ()


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-24

If no wiring malfunction is detected:

- Loosen knock sensor and tighten again to 20 Nm (15 ft lb).

If the malfunction is still present (malfunction again in DTC memory):

- Replace Knock Sensor (KS) 1 -G61-.

- Read the readiness code Page 01-31 . If DTC memory has been erased, verify repair via appropriate display group Page 01-33 , Readiness code, creating.

- Separate black 3-pin connector to Knock Sensor (KS) 2 -G66- (arrow).

- Measure resistance between terminals 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 on KS connector.
Specification: ohms ()

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-25

- Connect VAG 1598/18 test box to ECM wiring harness (arrow).

- Check wiring between test box and black 3-pin connector for open circuit according to wiring diagram.
Terminal 1 and test box socket 57

Terminal 2 and test box socket 33

Terminal 3 and test box socket 56

Resistance: max. 1.5 ohms ()

- Additionally, check wires for short to one another.
Terminal 3 and test box socket 57

Terminal 3 and test box socket 33

Terminal 2 and test box socket 57

Specification: ohms ()


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
28-26

If no wiring malfunction is detected:

- Loosen knock sensor and tighten again to 20 Nm (15 ft lb).

If the malfunction is still present (malfunction again in DTC memory):

- Replace Knock Sensor (KS) 2 -G66-.

- Read the readiness code Page 01-31 . If DTC memory has been erased, verify repair via appropriate display group Page 01-33 , Readiness code, creating.
Source: http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...1#post16578645

Here is how the template looks for the knock control group on the engine monitoring of VCDS:

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/020-029.html

Good luck with that and as MLue1 said, I also got these error code when I drove through a huge puddle, but I could rev past 3000, maybe because I'm tuned so I don't have this restriction, I don't know ^^

Last edited by FlowMK6; 03-28-2017 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 04:06 PM   #8
Rickybobbi
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not too sure, now i can rev past 3000 but the light is still on. Gonna clear it tonight after work and hopefully it wont come back. I have no clue how to torque exactly 20nm, don't even know what that means haha I'm such a noob, ow well. Car is still under warranty, just don't want to have to pay them 100 or whatever for diagnostics.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:05 PM   #9
MLue1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickybobbi View Post
not too sure, now i can rev past 3000 but the light is still on. Gonna clear it tonight after work and hopefully it wont come back. I have no clue how to torque exactly 20nm, don't even know what that means haha I'm such a noob, ow well. Car is still under warranty, just don't want to have to pay them 100 or whatever for diagnostics.
I don't think that is covered under warranty, I hope I'm wrong tho.
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:55 AM   #10
FlowMK6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickybobbi View Post
not too sure, now i can rev past 3000 but the light is still on. Gonna clear it tonight after work and hopefully it wont come back. I have no clue how to torque exactly 20nm, don't even know what that means haha I'm such a noob, ow well. Car is still under warranty, just don't want to have to pay them 100 or whatever for diagnostics.
If I'm not wrong, Nm stands for Newton metre, it's a unit of torque which allows you to tighten the bolt at a specific force.

For your case, the torque spec is important since the knock sensor is used to sense detonation or engine knock and to achieve this role, there is a little crystal which acts like a sensor ; it transforms vibration coming from the engine into voltage, a electric signal that your control module will use to detect engine knock and then alter the timing, it would retard the ignition timing to prevent any damage coming from the pre-ignition.

If the torque spec isn't respected, it would add / reduce vibration leading to bad electric signal, false data and the control module could alter the timing even if it's not needed.

Sorry if I seems not clear, English is not my first language

The tool you need to torque at 20nm is a torque wrench that you can borrow to a friend or buy for around 150$ at Canadian Tire.

I also think that it's not covered under the warranty. I think you should wait a bit just to see if the code disappear. I remember that mine have disappeared by itselft.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:17 AM   #11
MLue1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickybobbi View Post
ya gonna wait till at least the weekend. I have no time to go during the week cuz of work. I have no clue how to change it let alone know where it is. I'll have to get someone to do it for me.

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Once you get the car up in the air you go underneath. The knock sensors are located just under the exhaust manifold, removing the heat shield bolts will allow you to see and remove the two knock sensors.

I can lend you a torque wrench and ramps if you need them, I'm in East Markham near the Markham Stouffville Hospital.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:47 AM   #12
Rickybobbi
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it's so wierd I could over Rev but the light was on..as soon as I clear the code back to limp. I'm just gonna drive it for couple days see what happens by the weekend. thx Mlue1 but I would have no idea how to change it let alone trust myself to do it. if you done it or know how to do it I would gladly pay for your help or anyone else in the area. I'm in ajax so pretty close

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Old 03-29-2017, 08:33 PM   #13
MLue1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickybobbi View Post
it's so wierd I could over Rev but the light was on..as soon as I clear the code back to limp. I'm just gonna drive it for couple days see what happens by the weekend. thx Mlue1 but I would have no idea how to change it let alone trust myself to do it. if you done it or know how to do it I would gladly pay for your help or anyone else in the area. I'm in ajax so pretty close

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How is it today?
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:52 PM   #14
Rickybobbi
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after I cleared the code and it went limp the next day it was still limp for about 5-10 min of driving then all of a sudden back to normal. Its been 2 days now no engine light and everything back to normal.
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