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Old 08-22-2017, 12:22 PM   #15
lilonespaz
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i chose iridium plugs, BKR7EIX, because those were the ones offered in the kit i bought with the Red top Audi coils.
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just like god intended. he didnt kill off the dinosaurs for their sweet sweet bone juice to have it go getting wasted by eco-obsessed torque thieves.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:04 PM   #16
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i chose iridium plugs, BKR7EIX, because those were the ones offered in the kit i bought with the Red top Audi coils.
HSTuning now has kits for both 129 (ir) and 139 (pt) ahh, I'm probably way overthinking it haha

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Benefit for Ir is w/m application. Pt doesn't work well with that.

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Thanks! And sorry if it's a noob question, but what is w/m application.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:48 PM   #17
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HSTuning now has kits for both 129 (ir) and 139 (pt) ahh, I'm probably way overthinking it haha



Thanks! And sorry if it's a noob question, but what is w/m application.
w/m = Water/methanol.

Some people use it to support higher octane tunes such as running 93 octane with a water/methanol injection to boost the octane rating so they can run a 100 octane tune. Water/Meth also helps cool intake air temperature a lot so the car is "generally safer" due to the lower temp and higher octane.. however you have to continuously monitor your water/meth to keep it topped off and if a jet clogs and you are running a 100 octane tune it could cause engine issues due to only receiving 93 octane(since the meth/water isnt coming anymore) which could cause detonation and knock and engine wear/destruction.

Others just use it for its cooling effect and do not tune for it or run a higher octane tune. the only real benefit is you get lower temps maybe a small bump in power but you dont have to worry about running out or if something in the system malfunctions as your car isnt relying on it.

But water/meth is corrosive and slowly eats away at things hence why iridium plugs and a really early change cycle of like 10k-20k miles
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just like god intended. he didnt kill off the dinosaurs for their sweet sweet bone juice to have it go getting wasted by eco-obsessed torque thieves.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:50 PM   #18
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W/M is a little bit more complicated bolt on mod. Its not too hard but not too easy imo. I probably will not do it. I thought about doing it but nahh.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:26 PM   #19
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W/M is a little bit more complicated bolt on mod. Its not too hard but not too easy imo. I probably will not do it. I thought about doing it but nahh.
Thank you so much for all the help lilonespaz! After reading that (and it making very good sense, thank you) I'm probably not going down that road, so seems like the longer lasting platinum ones are probably best for my situation and it sounds like they're still perfectly fine for if/when I go stage 1.

Does HSTuning (or anyone else that carries them) ever run deals? Or pretty much always list price and I should just get them now? Thanks again so much!!
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:21 PM   #20
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Plugs are basically list price somewhere round $10 each for pt I think. Maybe there is a red top coil pack sale somewhere, idk just went with hs tuning.

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Old 08-22-2017, 08:18 PM   #21
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My personal experience: I used Seafoam every 10K miles for 60K miles on my car. I never had any bad issues using it. I did get a flashing CEL everytime while doing it. And one time when I had a helper pour in the Seafoam while I revved the engine I smelled rotten egg smells (heating up the cat too much). We stoppped immediately and poured it in more slowly. That's the worst thing I've ever had happen with Seafoam. Did doing it help? I don't know.... Honestly, I still felt like between 80-100K I was going to need to tear it down and manually clean it all out. So, I guess 6 x $9 is what I was out.

That being said, I've read that FORD does NOT recommend using Seafoam or ANY other induction cleaning methods in turbo charged engines. They said that it heats up the turbo and burns the turbo's out. I didn't have that issue and am unaware of VW's having that issue... but I always thought about it while I was doing a Seafom on my car.

I changed my plugs out with BKR7EIX at 55K. No noticeable change in performance. I changed my coils out at 60K and I noticed a difference. I noticed slightly better throttle response and the engine overall seemed more peppy... like the day I got it brand new. Nothing too major, but noticeable.

Also, I thought that iridium was the best way to go for non-meth and platinum was the way to go for meth setups. But maybe I have that backwards.

Fuel filter was more of a maintenance thing and after I did it once, I figured once every 40-50K is sufficient.
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:31 AM   #22
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My personal experience: I used Seafoam every 10K miles for 60K miles on my car. I never had any bad issues using it. I did get a flashing CEL everytime while doing it. And one time when I had a helper pour in the Seafoam while I revved the engine I smelled rotten egg smells (heating up the cat too much). We stoppped immediately and poured it in more slowly. That's the worst thing I've ever had happen with Seafoam. Did doing it help? I don't know.... Honestly, I still felt like between 80-100K I was going to need to tear it down and manually clean it all out. So, I guess 6 x $9 is what I was out.

That being said, I've read that FORD does NOT recommend using Seafoam or ANY other induction cleaning methods in turbo charged engines. They said that it heats up the turbo and burns the turbo's out. I didn't have that issue and am unaware of VW's having that issue... but I always thought about it while I was doing a Seafom on my car.

I changed my plugs out with BKR7EIX at 55K. No noticeable change in performance. I changed my coils out at 60K and I noticed a difference. I noticed slightly better throttle response and the engine overall seemed more peppy... like the day I got it brand new. Nothing too major, but noticeable.

Also, I thought that iridium was the best way to go for non-meth and platinum was the way to go for meth setups. But maybe I have that backwards.

Fuel filter was more of a maintenance thing and after I did it once, I figured once every 40-50K is sufficient.
I still have my fuel filter sitting in the box waiting to be changed lol. I just havent felt like spilling gas on me lately. I may buy some engine/trans mounts and just have my mechanic put them all on including the fuel filter.

Also im pretty sure i have never seen plugs/coils on sale. I paid around $120 for my plugs and red top coils.
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Old 08-24-2017, 10:51 AM   #23
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Also im pretty sure i have never seen plugs/coils on sale. I paid around $120 for my plugs and red top coils.
Agreed. I paid about $10.75 per spark plug (PFR7S8EG).

I paid about $70 for R8 coils years ago. I think they're in the $80-$90 range now.

Both on Amazon.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:59 AM   #24
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Thanks for the advice! Sounds like a set of PFR7S8EG and R8 coils are my next purchase for the car as I bring her back up to speed before starting any real mods.
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Old 08-25-2017, 08:10 AM   #25
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I was going to post the HS Tuning spark plug page as well, great info. I just hit 80k and at 60 I did the spark plugs and coil packs. So you're on the right path. I should probably do the fuel filter this fall myself, although considering the lack of an interval in the owner's manual, I believe its supposed to be considered "lifetime". It's not crucial, just a good idea.

If you really want stay on top of things you could consider the PCV Valve as well....probably not necessary unless you start to hear a whistling sound that clearly isn't the turbo. I replaced mine immediately after having the valves cleaned because I had a couple misfire codes and I just wanted to be absolutely sure I covered all the bases. I got the aftermarket one from HS Tuning for about $100.

Also - I see you have the 6MT...has the fluid in the transmission been drained/filled yet? You probably want to do that. I live in a cold climate and Redline MTL works great, no more "notchy" than OEM fluid was in the wintertime.
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Old 08-25-2017, 10:16 AM   #26
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I was going to post the HS Tuning spark plug page as well, great info. I just hit 80k and at 60 I did the spark plugs and coil packs. So you're on the right path. I should probably do the fuel filter this fall myself, although considering the lack of an interval in the owner's manual, I believe its supposed to be considered "lifetime". It's not crucial, just a good idea.

If you really want stay on top of things you could consider the PCV Valve as well....probably not necessary unless you start to hear a whistling sound that clearly isn't the turbo. I replaced mine immediately after having the valves cleaned because I had a couple misfire codes and I just wanted to be absolutely sure I covered all the bases. I got the aftermarket one from HS Tuning for about $100.

Also - I see you have the 6MT...has the fluid in the transmission been drained/filled yet? You probably want to do that. I live in a cold climate and Redline MTL works great, no more "notchy" than OEM fluid was in the wintertime.
Thanks! Yeah, fuel filter, MT flush, brake fluid flush and coolant flush and the dreaded timing chain tensioner are all on my "list" of bringing it back up to par maintenance-wise. PCV Valve is also on the radar once I get other necessities taken care of. Sounds like I'm on the right track.

And I've heard a few people mention the Redline MTL, so I'll probably be switching to that when that change takes place.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:04 AM   #27
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Last question on this, hopefully.

So searched around and looks like the best option after shipping is this package from ECS for $140 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...IaAtbFEALw_wcB... but when I check it out, it says that it's not compatible with my car. From everything I've read, these are, but just might not show up on their list for some reason. Just wanted some confirmation that these are the set that'll work for my GTI; completely stock - but potentially upgrade to Stage 1 eventually. Thanks!
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:06 AM   #28
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Last question on this, hopefully.

So searched around and looks like the best option after shipping is this package from ECS for $140 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...IaAtbFEALw_wcB... but when I check it out, it says that it's not compatible with my car. From everything I've read, these are, but just might not show up on their list for some reason. Just wanted some confirmation that these are the set that'll work for my GTI; completely stock - but potentially upgrade to Stage 1 eventually. Thanks!
i wouldnt buy the ECS kit. Although there is probably nothing wrong with their coils they are not stamped OEM. they are OE(original equipment) which ECS says that means that are made in the same factory as OEM just not stamped with the audi/vw logo. Their website is a bit tricky due to the top saying genuine and oem but if you go to the parts list they list them as "original equipment" not Genuine VW/Audi

the urotuning is the only one i truely know of that sells OEM direct and upfront about it. Modded Euros doesnt list it on their package but the single coil packs they sell they sell them as "Genuine OEM"
https://www.urotuning.com/Electrical...p_r8_coils.htm
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