DIY MKVI FORGE MOTORSPORTS TRANSVERSE TSI OIL CATCH TANK [CATCH CAN] KIT - DIY Pictor

HYDE16 REVIEWS FORGE MOTORSPORTS TRANSVERSE MKVI TSI OIL CATCH TANK [CATCH CAN] KIT

Over the weekend I spent an afternoon in my Man Cave garage installing my -Forge Motorsports Transverse TSI Oil Catch Tank [Catch Can] Kit-.

As usual, I’ve come to expect a very high level of quality with all Forge products. This is my third Forge product and all in all, I was very impressed with the much anticipated “Africa plate”, the high quality hoses & clamps and the detailed instructions. Everything always comes well packaged for safety and to make sure none of the parts arrive damaged.

As with my last -DIY MKVI FORGE MOTORSPORTS TWINTAKE - First DIY Pictorial- and -DIY MKVI FORGE MOTORSPORTS TWINCOOLER [INTERCOOLER] KIT - DIY Pictorial- reviews, I took a ton of pictures and posted them for each step.

Just like the Forge Motorsports Twincooler [Intercooler] kit, the –included instructions– for the Transverse TSI Oil Catch Tank [Catch Can] Kit were so clear I didn’t feel the need to repeat all of the steps and pictures. I did however take some pictures and discuss what I found.

Word of advice before install: As with any aftermarket kits, make sure to clean out the new piping. I used an air hose to blow out any possible debris inside the piping. I would even go as far to say scrub the pipes out with a soft nylon brush, soap and water to remove any dirt or debris. Blow out every piece with an air hose to remove water or packing debris.

Description from -Forge Motorsport Product Page-

Our kit is unquestionably the most comprehensive out of all of the currently available catch tank options. With no intentions of rushing to market with an incomplete offering, we spent significant amounts of time on every last detail of the kit, incorporating everything necessary to completely bypass the stock PCV system while actually providing increased operative function over the OEM design. The kit is recirculating in design so as to maintain emissions compliance, however, it will capture all of the blow-by gasses and vapors that would otherwise lead to deposits on the intake valves, thereby keeping the system clean and the engine performing optimally long-term.

The kit incorporates features such as:
- Hand-fabricated aluminum tank
- Maintenance free baffle design
- CNC machined billet aluminum PCV bypass plate ("Africa plate")
- Large 30 fl. oz. tank capacity
- Universal tank mounting bracket
- Stainless mounting steel hardware
- Clip-on intake manifold cap with 3 vacuum / boost references - Retains original engine cover mounting post location
- Black powder coated tank and bracket
- Hard anodized plate and manifold cap
- Sight glass to check tank fluid level
- Drain plug and crush washer
- Oil resistant flourosilicone lined molded hoses
- Stainless Steel hose clamps
- Optional Forge logo sticker
- Will work with aftermarket motor mounts
- Should work with most if not all TSI-specific aftermarket intake systems

Our kit is the first of its kind for the 2.0 TSI applications to include a component to completely bypass the redundant and failure prone OEM PCV assembly. The stock PCV assembly includes a system of check valves that can effectively cause a boost leak of pressure back into the crankcase when they fail. This assembly also deposits the water, fuel, and oil vapors back into the intake manifold leading directly to valve deposits that can inhibit airflow and power over time. Our plate completely replaces this OEM assembly, bypassing the intake manifold entirely which will minimize intake valve deposits as well as eliminate the potential for a boost leak the wrong way through the system. The plate still incorporates the necessary provisions for equalizing the crankcase pressure from the lower portion of the block with the valve cover, and it also features a strategically placed swiveling outlet fitting positioned at the ideal location for the venting of PCV gases to the tank. Another unique feature included with the kit is a double-o-ring sealed clip-on intake manifold cap with three available ports to source a vacuum/boost reference for various engine accessories, such as a boost gauge, bypass valve, or a water/methanol injection trigger. Any unused ports can be plugged with the included grub screws. This kit does require the removal of the noise pipe, if your vehicle is so equipped, and we will offer an optional hose and plug to accomplish this. If your car does not have a noise pipe, you do not need to worry about this. Or you may have already removed the pipe from your vehicle with parts purchased at your local hardware store, or perhaps you have used the OEM Tiguan upper intercooler pipe which bypasses this altogether.

Tools Required:
-T25 and T30 Torx drive bits
-7mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets
-Flat-head screwdriver and Pliers
-3mm and 5mm Allen wrench or drive bit
-Blue colored, medium strength, Loc-Tite liquid thread locker
-Protective eye-wear and gloves are also recommended

Preparation:
-Please thoroughly read through and familiarize yourself with these instructions in their entirety prior to
beginning the installation process of any component. Please also ensure that the vehicle and engine have
cooled down sufficiently to avoid risking skin burns or other injury.
-If the vehicle is equipped with the OEM engine cover, this will need to be removed, simply by lifting up on the
corners of the cover.

What the Kit Contains:



Up-close Picture of the “Africa Plate”:

Removing the Ignition Connections and Ignition Coils: First you will need to unclip the connectors for the ignition coils and remove the 2 ignition coils on the right side of the engine to make space for removal of the OEM PCV assembly. Please stuff a paper towel or rag into the open holes to prevent anything from falling into them. The instructions said to use the T25 Torx bit to remove the 10 screws securing the PCV assembly to the valve cover but I found that my 2011 MKVI required the T30 Torx bit. Save these screws as they will be re-used later. The rear PCV hose can separate from the main plate simply by pulling it out of the main assembly.





Removing the Final Intake Tubing Hose: Unclip the connector of the corrugated plastic hose that connects the PCV assembly to the intake manifold. Pinch down on the knurled clips at the end of the hose and simply pull out the hose connector. This will allow you to remove the main PCV assembly entirely. Very carefully use a small flathead screwdriver to unclip the connector of the rear PCV hose at the intake tube on the back of the motor. This connector secures at the top and bottom and both sides, so all 4 clips must be undone. Again, please exercise caution as this piece is very delicate. Do not break these clips otherwise you will need to replace the entire hose if you ever reinstall the OEM PCV assembly.

Exchanging the Gasket / Plate Comparison: You will now need to swap over the green-colored gasket from the underside of the OEM PCV assembly to the Forge PCV bypass plate (“Africa plate”). Once this is done, you will need to trim a small section of the gasket that is no longer needed at the fan shaped cutout area. Please reference the photos below and use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut the gasket. If you ever reinstall the OEM PCV assembly, you will need to purchase a new gasket.



Install the “Africa plate”: Reuse 9 of the 10 T30 Torx bit screws from the old PCV assembly to secure the new “Africa plate” valve cover. Word of advice: For the 9th screw at the top right corner of the “Africa plate” install 5-6 of the included washers on the screw before tightening it through the “Africa plate”. The new plate is not as tall as the old OEM PCV assembly in this location hence the screw will tighten down but the underside of the screw head will not sit flush with the surface of the plate; 5-6 of the included washers will remedy this. Lightly thread all 9 screws and start tightening in a clockwise pattern little by little. I tightened all screws in the circular pattern three times until they were all tight but not over-tightened where as to strip the valve cover threads. After some extensive driving make sure to re-torque all of the screws after the engine cools as the heat will allow a little more travel.



Mount Catch Can: For US spec vehicles only, next you will need to mount the tank in the location of your choosing. The universal bracket setup should accommodate most locations by allowing you to swivel, rotate, and modify the position of the bracket on the tank to suit your needs, however, for the transverse 2.0T applications, it is recommended to use the small threaded hole in the frame rail just between the motor mount and A/C hard line. Use the included 5mm Allen bolt (M6x1.0 thread pitch) and washer to secure the tank to this location or use your own supplied hardware if you wish to select a different mounting location. I used the two remaining washers for each Allen bolt. The remaining washers were used for the 9th screw on the “Africa Plate”.



Connect Tubing to Catch Can and Intake Tubing: With the Forge plate and tank now mounted, you will now need to attach the hoses. From the fitting on the plate, attach the straight section of hose to the front fitting/port on the tank. From the rear fitting on the tank, you will need to attach the molded hose. Route this hose alone the side of the motor and around the front of the intake tube so that the larger opening of the hose is pointed at the PCV connection on the intake tube. Secure all of the hose connections with the supplied hose clamps.









Catch Can Fully Connected:[/B] This catch tank is supplied with a sight glass on the side so that you can monitor the fluid fill level in lieu of performing periodic draining of the tank via the incorporated drain plug at the bottom of the tank. Drain intervals will vary based on the amount of fluid collected. This will depend heavily on the amount of blow-by gasses of the vehicle in question, how much the vehicle is driven, and ambient environmental conditions (temperature). More fluid will be collected in the tank in cooler temperatures compared to warmer weather.

Boost Tap / Grease: The last step is to install the clip-on blanking cap for the intake manifold. Prior to doing so, however, you must first select how many of the 3 available pressure/vacuum references you need to utilize, and for what accessories. The three provided vacuum nipples have different size holes to suit different needs.

- The nipple with the smallest hole should be used for a boost gauge
- The nipple with the largest hole should be used for a mechanical DV reference
- The nipple with the middle size hole should be used for a water/meth injection reference or other accessory

Any unused references on the cap must be plugged with the supplied grub screws. (3mm allen) It is highly recommended that all vacuum nipples and port plugs are secured with blue colored, medium strength, semi permanent Loc-Tite liquid thread locker. If not used, the nipples and plugs may not be secure enough and may back out under pressure creating a boost/vacuum leak. When threading the nipples into the cap, you may wish you use a small piece of vacuum tubing or some other non-slip material to slip over the vacuum nipple in order to get a better “grip” on it when tightening it.

The one question I have for Forge is why the smallest nipple for a boost gauge?
In comparison to my old AWE boost tap hose, the AWE nipple seems to be as large as the Forge nipple with the middle size hole. In the picture below the nipple on the right is from the AWE T-fitting, the two nipples to the left are the middle size hole and the largest hole. Does this matter that I went to a smaller nipple now with this kit?



To install the manifold cap, you will slide the cap over the barb on the intake manifold until the lip of the barb can no longer been seen through the grooves on the cap. The double o-ring seals are very tight and secure so this may take a bit of effort. Once the lip of the barb is no longer visible, insert the black plastic C-clip to secure the cap in place. Word of advice: Make sure you remove any grease that sits inside the cap near the port holes. The grease should only sit inside the cap around the middle, not around the port holes. I used a q-tip to remove any grease near these port holes.



Engine Cover: If you plan to reinstall the engine cover, you will need to cut a small relief hole in the bottom of the cover to clear the routing of the hoses. This can be done with a Dremel tool or some other sharp cutting tool. This is undertaken at your own discretion. I ended up fitting the hose underneath the front of the engine cover but after driving a few times the cover popped up due to the hose vibration. I plan on leaving the engine cover off since the “Africa plate” looks so good.



Install: The install was a breeze for anyone who has replaced air hoses on a car before with simple hand tools. Hopefully this DIY Pictorial can offer up some more detail on installing the Catch Tank Kit. My goal was to try and explain the installation beyond any typical instruction manual.

Startup: I fired the engine up and checked for any possible tank / hose vibration and rubbing against other components. I listened for leaks or whistles but the Catch Tank Kit and hoses were firmly secured without any movement or air leaks. The car sounded the same at idle on the outside and inside of the car.

Driving: There weren’t any sound or performance differences when in neutral or while driving (as to be expected). IMO it is well worth the price for the quality, instructions, amazing customer service (thanks Mike!) and benefit from removing possible engine blow-by vapors.

Boost: I have the AWE vent-mounted boost gauge installed and just as a test, I drove the car hard to see if I could still reach the original 18psi boost spike that the gauge showed originally (with APR Stage 1 software). I reached 18psi maximum as per the gauge so this was a great test to check for leaks.

Look: It looks amazing, enough said. The black tubing looks OEM except for the subtle white Forge Motorsport logos. The catch can and “Africa plate” has a smooth refined black finish and looks OEM in the engine bay. The catch can and “Africa plate” offers enough black to blend in with engine bay when standing back away from the car but up-close the Forge Motorsport stamp on the “Africa plate” lets you know it’s modified. The metal connectors and round metal clamps were all great quality.

Function: For all of you CATCH CAN haters and non-believers out there, here’s another example why a catch can may help us out or at least catch some of this oil buildup. These pictures below show the oil build up after 5K miles on the intercooler hoses on my 2011 MKVI. I used paper towels to clean the small pool of oil out and then stuffed it inside the hoses to get out as much of the oil coating as possible. Needless to say the paper towel was brown. If I can remove all or even some of this from flowing through the intake plumbing, I feel its well worth it.



Oil Vapor Collection from -Forge Motorsport Product Page-

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Excellent write-up!

Wow, very in depth write up. Thanks for this contribution! :thumbsup:

For those considering a quick drain option on the Forge setup, reference the 2nd page in my build thread:

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14439&page=2

subscribed, since I'll soon be installing the PVC plate only.

Edit: Can you provide more details on removing the ignition coils? No special tools needed to accomplish???

You the man, nice write up. It appears Forge products i.e. twintake, cooler and can is the best of the bred.

BenH said:

You the man, nice write up. It appears Forge products i.e. twintake, cooler and can is the best of the bred.

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To be honest, I don’t want to say it is the BEST for fear of starting a flaming war. In my opinion and for my needs it is the BEST and I research things to no end before I invest my hard earned cash.
Between the reviews, fantastic customer service and the quality products I have received to date, I have to say I would stick with their product line for any upgrades I may be able to purchase in the future.

I also have APR products (APR Stage 1 software) and I couldn’t be happier. Next on the list may be their APR downpipe to go to Stage 2.

HYDE16 said:

To be honest, I don’t want to say it is the BEST for fear of starting a flaming war. In my opinion and for my needs it is the BEST and I research things to no end before I invest my hard earned cash.
Between the reviews, fantastic customer service and the quality products I have received to date, I have to say I would stick with their product line for any upgrades I may be able to purchase in the future.

I also have APR products (APR Stage 1 software) and I couldn’t be happier. Next on the list may be their APR downpipe to go to Stage 2.

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Real nice write up.

You ever run your buddy take is also modding his car with different products. I am sure everyone would be interested in the results.

I wanted to know, with the hose that connects to the back of the motor to the intake pipe, what happens to the stock hose connected? does that get plugged up? Or does it stay open? ty in advance

So if it's the hose that connects to the intake tubing above the turbo, it gets removed and replaced with the new Forge hose. The original hose went from the PCV assembly to the intake tube. Now the tube will come from the catch can and go to the intake tube.

Is anybody with forge catch can leaking from the swivel part on the africa plate.Mike sent me a new one but it started to leak after 1000 miles again.Just trying to see if this is a problem with anybody else.

Driving down the road and saw a cloud of smoke coming threw the hood that's when i notice it's leaking again.

Negative, no leaks. Can you remove the swivel adapter and use teflon tape around the threads?

HYDE16 said:

Negative, no leaks. Can you remove the swivel adapter and use teflon tape around the threads?

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It's not the treaded part it's the swivel part

I just emailed Mike, lets see if he can come on and address.