DIY Oil Catch Can

Hey Guys and Gals. Name is WoLF and this is my DIY for an MK6 Oil Catch Can. It is recirculating. Im sure there are plenty ways to modify and look forward to other peoples version maybe vent to airs or such. First and Foremost I want to Thank VORTICO from Evolutionm.net and Formerly Silveratljetta from VWvortex.com for the own DIY where I was able to take and adapt this DIY. They did an awesome, awesome job and should be given credit. Also to Heretic for helping me with the back hose and boost pressure problem. Truly an awesome guy and helped me without thought. They made the blueprints and I ran with it. Please keep referring to these two DIY for baffling questions or more pictures. Also I am not responsible for any damage you do to your car; this is a D.I.Y. and should be done with someone with some hands on experience related to autos.
Links are:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3248273-***Oil-Catch-Can-DIY***

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-ho...can-mod-dual-baffles-extended-inlet-tube.html

*I used some of their pictures for the parts I forgot to snap pictures of while working*

The links will greatly help in the purchase of some of the items you will need. I used a few pictures from them and I hope they are ok with it. I am in no way taking any credit for their work.
Also want to thank FORGE and BSH for their Catch Cans because a lot of the confusion I ran into I saw how they did it in their catch can and got a better understanding on what I needed to do. IF YOU HAVE THE MONEY THEN DEFINITELY GO WITH ONE OF THESE GREAT COMPANIES. They are some of the best and great sellers.

Tools Needed:
1. Ebay Catch Can any color choice whatsoever.
2. 6 feet of 5/8 fuel hose. (not clear hose will crinkle under heat)
3. Hose Clamps
4. 5/8 to ¾ heater hose connector
5. 5/8 T hose adapter
6. 5/8 90* elbow
7. Steel works 1/8 by ¾ aluminum bar
8. Copper tubing and welding copper experience
9. Stainless steel scrubbing pads
10. Drain valve (whatever fits on catch can)
11. Bolts and screws for catch can bracket.
12. Electrical tape
13. Boost tap (I purchased 42dd and could tap boost gauge to it no problems)
14. Black zip ties

First I took the Ebay Catch Can to my local Lowes and was able to purchase most parts. I bought Bolts and Washers to use on the stock Catch Can Bracket and the aluminum Bracket, also the aluminum bar and stainless steel scrubbing pads. Then went to my local parts store (Discount Auto) and bought the Hose fittings and bypass caps and drain valve and hose clamps. Went to Marine Boat store and bought 5/8 Fuel hose with steel braid inside for outside use. My father does kitchens so he donated his copper and his torch to put together the insides of the catch can. LoL Please refer to the other DIY so you can see what the inside looks like. I just copied what they did and did it to the best of my abilities.

You will pretty much have to work on the catch can right from the start. Open it up and see that it’s just empty inside like many catch cans. I fitted the copper tubing inside and welded it to the existing port of the catch can. I used the Scrubbing pads and extended them and used them as baffling for the inside. I then fitted the drain valve where the bottom drain is on the eBay catch can.

Ebay special.







Take the time to mount the bracket to the catch can. Make sure it’s properly fitted and don’t over tighten in fear you might strip the catch can threads.


After I was done with the catch can I Took the Aluminum bracket and measured it to the catch can bracket in place and measured the distance needed to clear the catch can from the mounting point and not rub or slide around. I cut the aluminum bracket down and used a table vice grip to bend the aluminum bracket into position. Drill a hole so you can bolt it down to the existing bolt thread near the water reservoir. Cut and sand down the edges and take the catch can and make sure it lines up right and fits well with no rubbing on anything major.






After that I removed the engine cover and you can see the intake tube and the stock pcv hose connected to it. I removed the intake hose and disconnected the stock pcv hose from the engine. I fitted the 5/8 hose to the back port and ran it around the motor and that connects to the 5/8 T adapter. I then took the 5/8 to ¾ hose adapter and secured it to the stock pcv hose on the intake. I used some black tape and a hose clamp and when done I pressured tested it with an air compressor to make sure it did not have any leaks or air escaping.






After that you connect the intake tubing back on and reroute the pcv hoses from intake and pcv to go around the back with no kinks to safely route it to the catch can.


I took the stock pcv hose coming from the front of the vehicle and disconnected it. I installed the 42dd Boost tap to the existing hole and installed their plug so it was snug and secured. I then took the stock pcv hose and cut the plastic bracket on the end and removed it all together and installed the 5/8 to it with a hose clamp. I connected the 5/8 hose to the pcv hose which fits perfect to it, then I took the 5/8 adapter on the back from the intake pcv hose I just did and routed and cut to where the catch can would be and install the 90* elbow to it so you don’t make a hard bend or kink the hose.








I routed all hoses and secured them correctly to the motor without rubbing or touching anything dangerous with zip ties.
Installed the catch can to the mount on lower left hand side with a single bolt and lock washers and made sure it was snug and did not vibrate or shake or get loose by just shaking it. Also made sure it didn’t rub on anything. (Drove a few miles after install and did a hard run to make sure it didn’t come loose and it did not.)

I then ran both hoses to the catch can. The back hose connects to the right plug and hose from front connects to the left side where the copper tube is fitted on.





When you’re done just make sure everything is tight and properly fitted and then start the vehicle to check for any boost leaks. Drive the vehicle and come back and double check everything and you should be good to go.
BY ALL MEANS THIS IS NOT TO SWAY PEOPLE FROM PURCHASING GREAT PRODUCTS LIKE FORGE or BSH or ANYTHING LIKE THAT. THIS IS JUST FOR THE DO IT YOURSELFERS AND PEOPLE WILLING TO TRY SOMETHING OUT. I HAVE WELL OVER 1500 MILES WITH THIS SET UP AND HAVE NOT RAN INTO ANY PROBLEMS. SORRY IF IT’S NOT THE PRETTIEST OR BEST LOOKING BUT IT’S MY CAR AND IM HAPPY WITH IT.

THANK YOU FOR LOOKING AND ANY QUESTIONS OR ADVICE FEEL FREE TO POST UP ALWAYS LOOKING TO IMPROVE. NOT LOOKING FOR DUMB COMMENTS OR STUPID REMARKS ON SET UP. FEEDBACK AND CONSTRUCTIVE CRITIZISM IS ALWAYS GOOD. IT MAY NOT BE TO EVERYONES LIKING BUT WE DO THIS FOR THE SPORT AND GROWTH. THANKS AGAIN

Impressed! quality work :thumbsup:
u should consider making them and offering them for sale

euro89 said:

Impressed! quality work :thumbsup:
u should consider making them and offering them for sale

Click to expand...

I was asked and thought about it but my problem was thinking about what the cost would be with labor put in and such lol so I decided to post up and let people have at it. Maybe others have better ideas or find but I really thank you for the comment.

awesome. Thanks man!!

how do you check for boost leaks

glad to see you went with that t fitting...

I would say, at least in my opinion is checking for air leaks while the vehicle is on and after a test drive to see if your vehicle is running up to par as before. I have seen vehicles studder a bit or just feel no boost build up. You could take a spray bottle with water and spray it on the areas you connected the hose to and make sure everything is nice and sealed.

Also Heretic I forgot to update the text and give you thanks but i did now. Sorry i truly meant to put you there from the beginning, but TY again. I appreciate it.

DaWoLF said:

Also Heretic I forgot to update the text and give you thanks but i did now. Sorry i truly meant to put you there from the beginning, but TY again. I appreciate it.

Click to expand...

no problem, glad you got it all worked out...

Moved to our brand spanking new DIY forum. Thanks for documenting your steps.

Great pictures and writeup. Good work!

so you had to cut the plastic factory clap things off? i was hoping there was a way to do this without modifying or destroying the factory parts at all.

these clamps

yes but you only have to cut one and it actually doesn't hinder anything. If you put the hose back on the intake manifold you removed it fits snug. I didn't really put much thought into removing it without braking it since i wasn't planning on ever going back to stock but maybe you can figure out a way. Be cool for guys who dont want to remove the clip.

Hi all. I just purchased a used 2010 GTI, 6MT with 4,500 miles. Love the car! I’m very interested in an Oil Catch Can (OCC). This write up is excellent but I have a question. Forgive me if the answer is obvious. Where does the “output” hose from the can lead?

For my review, I think I see that the PVC assembly on top of the valve cover contains two separate outputs for this dreaded oil vapor. I also see how he routed hoses from the front and rear PCV outputs to that T. From that point, the contents of both tubes flowed through one tube into the Oil Catch Can (OCC). Again, it’s that other “exit” hose that confuses me. What does it do? Does it connect to anything? Many thanks.

Also, I know people like pictures, so here is one of my new car.

I just finished all the “plumbing” for my oil catch can. (The can should arrive in a day or so.) I have an observation and question about the rear outlet from the PCV valve assembly. The OEM hose starts at the PCV output on top of the valve cover, extends below the coil wires and then bends DOWN to the entry point in the intake. The entire hose runs “downhill.” I also noticed that my catch-can plumbing also runs below the coil wires but then angles upward before it turns and comes toward the front of the engine. (See picture below.)

My concern is that oil will accumulate in the hose and flow back toward the PCV valve. I kind of doubt the air pressure leaving the valve is sufficient to fight gravity. The worst case scenario is I will remove the rear tube every oil change if required (perhaps every other) and clean out the tube. But I was just wondering if anyone else noticed this with their set up and has similar concerns.

Lastly, for giggles I pulled the air intake off the rear manifold (where the rear PCV valve hose deposits its oil), and it had a thick coating of it all inside the rubber connector, which of course I cleaned. And my car has only 4,800 miles on it! To me, this totally confirmed the need for a catch can. There is no way I want that oil to make contact with my turbo, to coat my intake and any sensors, to eventually burn onto my valves making them crusty, and to burn inside my engine.