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Old 02-22-2014, 07:22 AM   #43
steelcurtain
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Getting the seals on without the tool is in the DIY.

Count on at least one injector coming out. I'd still have 4 replacement kits. The kit comes with several bits. The white seal you use and the rest is optional. The blue ring is for the injector to fuel rail, which I would change. Then you have the clips that hold the injectors in place. All done.

If you don't feel up to it than don't do it. It's not hard but can be challenging to the less mechanically inclined. I mean that with the upmost respect. Just looking out. This DIY is very successful but others have had challenges due mostly to not being organized.

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Old 02-22-2014, 07:24 AM   #44
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Google my DIY thread on the vortex. It has way more activity than this one. You can learn from others mistakes. I try my best to follow both threads so you will get assistance if something goes south.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:23 PM   #45
mmaluso
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How do I get this dang throttle body off? I've done lots of work on my own cars in the past but mostly 90s rwd Mazdas. I can't for the life of me get the throttle body bolts out. Specifically the rear left one. There is no room for anything down there. Should I be doing this from underneath? Anyone near Fort Collins,CO that has done this?

Last edited by mmaluso; 05-20-2014 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #46
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The throttle body can be left on the inlet manifold after you take the tbp off
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:59 PM   #47
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I think I used a swivel adapter and an allen socket on an extension.. something like that. It's a bitch to get to
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:00 PM   #48
mmaluso
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Finally got throttle body off which allowed me to get to the lower manifold bolts. I thought i removed everything but the manifold wont come out. Gotta go through the photos again. I already removed 5 top bolts, two lower, two lower nuts, and tripple square nut. Any ideas?

Reread all the posts in the thread and saw someone had the same problem. I feel like im pulling on this thing pretty hard and am worried about breaking something. Should i just yank on it?

Last edited by mmaluso; 05-20-2014 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmaluso View Post
Finally got throttle body off which allowed me to get to the lower manifold bolts. I thought i removed everything but the manifold wont come out. Gotta go through the photos again. I already removed 5 top bolts, two lower, two lower nuts, and tripple square nut. Any ideas?

Reread all the posts in the thread and saw someone had the same problem. I feel like im pulling on this thing pretty hard and am worried about breaking something. Should i just yank on it?
You should have left the TB on the intake manifold. Remove the charge pipe and coupling hose at the TB....along with disconnecting the plugs of course.

IF all the plugs are removed, you have to "pull/yank" the I/M until it is separated from the cylinder head. DO NOT PRY it off with a screwdriver. There's no need for that. If you look closely, you can literally see all the plugs that are connected to the wire harness that comes from the driver side of the car. There is one plug on the right side of the I/M. I believe it's for the flapper control or something. You'll see what I'm referring to. It has to be unplugged as well.



Quote:
Originally Posted by mmaluso View Post
How do I get this dang throttle body off? I've done lots of work on my own cars in the past but mostly 90s rwd Mazdas. I can't for the life of me get the throttle body bolts out. Specifically the rear left one. There is no room for anything down there. Should I be doing this from underneath? Anyone near Fort Collins,CO that has done this?
The only thing you need to get from underneath is the plastic skidplate and charge pipe. Other than that, everything is from above.



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Originally Posted by Cryptic1911 View Post
I think I used a swivel adapter and an allen socket on an extension.. something like that. It's a bitch to get to
I'm guessing you're talking about the triple square #10 long bolt at the bottom of the I/M bracket? You can get to the bolt if you use a 4" extension and the triple square bit. Just go to the right of the coolant and AC refrigerant lines. I tried using a swivel adapter and it was impossible. The method I mention worked for me.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:27 PM   #50
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Thanks. I had 1 or 2 harnesses to disconnect but my biggest problem was that I forgot to disconnect fuel hard pipe from pump. Still had to wrestle with the manifold pretty good to get it off and one injector stuck in the rail. Hopefully everything goes together easier than it came apart but I doubt it.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:31 PM   #51
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For the fuel line, I put a towel underneath the manifold, loosened up the 17mm nut (under the I/M) and let the fuel drain. Then I loosened and removed the 17mm nut on the other end (right side of the engine valve cover).

Re-install is simple. Just make sure not to pinch the injector wires (especially between #1 and #2). DON'T FORGET the metal clips that surround the injectors....if they were removed.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:36 AM   #52
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Re install is a lot easier, the inlet manifold will need a good wiggle to put back on due to the O rings on top of the injectors make sure a put a bit of motor oil on them (O rings) to make them slippery.
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:07 PM   #53
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Reinstall was definitely easier. Got everything back together today without a hitch. Car started up and runs much better.

Only problem is the CEL is still on. I drove around for about 30 minutes, parking and turning engine on and off about 6-8 times along the way thinking that the light would go off over time. I also tried to have Advanced Auto clear my codes but they only read codes. Same ones came up as before... P2015 and a few misfires.

I read that if you disconnect battery it will clear codes (mine was disconnected overnight). And also read that if you turn wheel from lock to lock that can work as well. Neither of these cleared them. Does it just take a few days of driving or what?

Any locals that can clear these for me? Thanks guys.
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Old 05-21-2014, 08:12 PM   #54
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have you checked to make sure all sensor/electrical cables have been correctly plugged in, P2015 intake manifold runner flap position, may also be mechanical as in something done when the intake was off....port dividers. Need to Vag Com it to get associated codes hopefully some one local will pipe up.
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:33 AM   #55
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Yea I checked. There isn't much over there to come unplugged. I'm almost positive I put back all port dividers exactly how they came out. Car seems to drive fine.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:06 PM   #56
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mmaluso, P2015 may be the flapper control. It could be going bad and the entire I/M needs to be replaced. Sucks man.
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