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Old 08-24-2011, 06:14 PM   #1
sgessler2011
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Diverter valve type C is piston type

I just finished removing the diverter valve from my 2011 GTI.
It's part #06H 145 710 C

I expected to find the type with the rubber diaphragm membrane instead this one does have a piston. I went ahead and ordered a D type due to the fact that I went APR stage 1. So it seems I now have two piston type diverters.

Steve

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Old 08-24-2011, 06:22 PM   #2
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For curiosity sake, whats the build date of the car??
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:08 PM   #3
sgessler2011
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12/10 build date
FYI the type D valve came from Europa Auto Parts. It had a sticker over the ID # and the VW Audi logos were removed.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:42 PM   #4
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So I'm assuming that the new GTIs come with the better diverter valve.
Looks like I now have a spare.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:50 PM   #5
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Wow you just saved me $100. I thought my DV was leaking when I went Stage 2. I've been putting off the purchase of the DV rev. D...

I also have a MY11 GTI with rev. C, I had once googled rev. C and people said it was the cheap model with diaphragm.

Edit: Link...

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5139
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:00 PM   #6
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Interesting graph....




Look at the difference between your rev. C and the rev. D pictured below...

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Old 08-25-2011, 10:03 PM   #7
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hmmm my DV pic.. what do those graphs tell me again? aside from the C looks to have more unnatural spikes?
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plac View Post
hmmm my DV pic.. what do those graphs tell me again? aside from the C looks to have more unnatural spikes?

Didn't check where that DV picture came from... just pulled it from google quickly...

Graph shows that DV rev. C when cold has a nice spike in boost but holds boost better than rev. D. (actual boost closely matches requested boost)

It could also mean that rev. C spikes so much that the car pulls timing and reduces boost, hence the falling graph?

Also seems that when warmed up, that rev. D has a little more boost than rev. C.

Question is, is this the same rev. C as OP has? Which looks damn close to rev. D.
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Old 08-26-2011, 01:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFvalleyGTi View Post
Wow you just saved me $100. I thought my DV was leaking when I went Stage 2. I've been putting off the purchase of the DV rev. D...

I also have a MY11 GTI with rev. C, I had once googled rev. C and people said it was the cheap model with diaphragm.

Edit: Link...

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5139
The version C valve on my car is definitely a piston type. It only lacks the small cage on the end that the D version has.
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:40 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgessler2011 View Post
The version C valve on my car is definitely a piston type. It only lacks the small cage on the end that the D version has.

Since you got the rev. D, why not install it and see if you notice any difference? If you have a vagcom even better... take some logs.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFvalleyGTi View Post
Since you got the rev. D, why not install it and see if you notice any difference? If you have a vagcom even better... take some logs.
I did install the D valve since I had already gone throughout the trouble removing the C. I'm thinking the car pulls a bit more, but this may very well be a placebo effect.

I don't plan to swap it back to C, reinstalling it was crazy. I had the car on rhino ramps, but even then it was tough on my back.
The diverter is held to the turbo via three 5mm bolts. I searched for a 1/4 drive 5mm hex socket. At Sears they simply do not exist. I purchased a cheap 3/8 drive set at harbor freight with a socket converter set. This allowed me to use a 1/4 drive ratchet, 1/4 drive extension and then the adapter stepped the size up from 1/4 to 3/8 ( the size of the hex socket.)
Reinstalling the bolts I dropped the top one and it landed in one of the control arm cavities. Luckily I have a small piece of rare earth magnet from a MRI machine, it powerfully pulled the bolt up and out of the crevice.
I should add that I used a regular 5mm Allen key long side in the bolt head with the tube end of a screwdriver that has the Phillips/ slot end that reverses in a hollow barrel end. This allowed me leverage on the small end of the Allen key.
Anyways, that's the story. On VCDS what tests should I run? I've never used it with the car in motion.
Steve
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFvalleyGTi View Post
Didn't check where that DV picture came from... just pulled it from google quickly...

Graph shows that DV rev. C when cold has a nice spike in boost but holds boost better than rev. D. (actual boost closely matches requested boost)

It could also mean that rev. C spikes so much that the car pulls timing and reduces boost, hence the falling graph?

Also seems that when warmed up, that rev. D has a little more boost than rev. C.

Question is, is this the same rev. C as OP has? Which looks damn close to rev. D.
so really, they even themselves out in the end.. peaks are useless and not the ideal situation. i guess you want the one that most closely matches the requested line.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by plac View Post
so really, they even themselves out in the end.. peaks are useless and not the ideal situation. i guess you want the one that most closely matches the requested line.

Yes, closer to the requested line, the happier the motor runs. Those spikes/peaks are not good, but I believe that has to do with the tune. Boost should always be a steady number, until top end when it usually drops off.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:46 PM   #14
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although for butt dyno purposes, i love the peak.. it really starts you off strong.
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