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Old 02-23-2012, 10:32 PM   #1
zic
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Question 2012 GTI Oil Drain Plug - Hex Key (Allen Key)

Hello all.

This is my first time doing anything on my GTI since I bought it, so please excuse any newbness. I have changed oil on half a dozen different cars before, without any troubles.

I went to do my first oil change on my 2012 GTI today, and thought I had everything I would need, but then I came across this:



I'm pretty sure that is the oil drain plug (please someone let me know if not), but instead of the 18mm (or similar) hex nut head I was expecting, there was a 6mm Hex Key (aka Allen Key) head.

Anyone know what the deal is with this? I've seen several how-to's and they seem to specify a normal hex nut head. Is this new for 2012?

It wouldn't be a big deal, but I'm not sure how to apply the needed torque to get the thing off there. Using a normal Allen key isn't getting me anywhere.

I suppose I could get a 6mm hex key bit and get it attached to my 1/2" breaker bar somehow, but that seems like a lot of force for a little hex key.

I know I could do the suction method, but I'd rather get this sucker off. I've got a replacement (OEM) plug and washer (with the normal hex nut head), and eventually I'll probably want to install a valve.

Any Advice?

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:44 PM   #2
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It is, we just changed my friends 2012 last week. My 2011 has the normal 18mm bolt I think it's a 5mm hex. Be sure the key is fully seated and then remove it. Do not over tighten it. I recommend ordering a fumoto valve for future oil changes.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:57 PM   #3
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Wow, that's really weird. I also have a 2012, but the drain bolt is a standard 18mm hex. A couple of days ago, a member, who is also a VW tech said something to the effect that VW is discouraging draining the engine oil through the pan and to change the oil by siphoning it out. Perhaps this bolt is part of their evil plot to keep "Mr Shadetree" away from their engines. It'll be interesting to see what direction this goes.
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:07 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info Steve!

I was able to finally get it off. I found a long hex key (~6") and abused a box-end wrench to get more leverage. It was a bit scary how much the hex key was bending when it finally budged.

Oddly, the hex key plug had less than half the thread length as the "OES" plugs I bought (ES#634 on ECS). Also, it didn't have a crush washer (the underside of the head was flat and formed a seemingly good deal with the oil pan). The paint (powder coat?) for the oil pan was applied after the plug was installed (I think I read that the normal style plugs where done that way as well).

No problems installing the replacement and no leaks so far (22 ft lbs on my cheap clicky torque wrench)

I think I'm going to keep using OEM plugs during the 36K free maintenance period (I just want to change oil more frequently than they are going to), and then switch to a valve plug.

Ion888, interesting info there. This being my first VW (Hondas and a Nissan before), I am impressed with a lot of how VM operates, but I really do dislike how they seem to actively discourage DIYers.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zic View Post
Thanks for the info Steve!

I was able to finally get it off. I found a long hex key (~6") and abused a box-end wrench to get more leverage. It was a bit scary how much the hex key was bending when it finally budged.

Oddly, the hex key plug had less than half the thread length as the "OES" plugs I bought (ES#634 on ECS). Also, it didn't have a crush washer (the underside of the head was flat and formed a seemingly good deal with the oil pan). The paint (powder coat?) for the oil pan was applied after the plug was installed (I think I read that the normal style plugs where done that way as well).

No problems installing the replacement and no leaks so far (22 ft lbs on my cheap clicky torque wrench)

I think I'm going to keep using OEM plugs during the 36K free maintenance period (I just want to change oil more frequently than they are going to), and then switch to a valve plug.

Ion888, interesting info there. This being my first VW (Hondas and a Nissan before), I am impressed with a lot of how VM operates, but I really do dislike how they seem to actively discourage DIYers.
We were taken by surprise too. Same as you described. Since this is a different design ( as far as I'm concerned) keep an eye out for seepage.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:21 AM   #6
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Damn Germans trying to make things difficult.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #7
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Germans are bona fide control freaks. If it was simple, they wouldn't like it.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:02 PM   #8
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It's nothing new, they have been going back and forth for a while. In the past if it was a steel pan it used the hex bolt with a copper washer, if it was an aluminum pan it used a 19mm normal plug with a aluminum washer. But they again alot of the newer V6/VR6 have a 18mm aluminum one. V8 non dirrect injection touregs have 2 10mm hex drain plugs. They are all over the place.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:58 PM   #9
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I haven't gone under car yet to see which plug I have but if I have the hex drain plug I might have to get the set below:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1330221406774
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legandrex View Post
I haven't gone under car yet to see which plug I have but if I have the hex drain plug I might have to get the set below:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1330221406774
Those look much better than what I ended up using (an extra long normal hex key), but you might still need to slip a pipe over it, or something like that, to get more leverage.

If I wasn't in a hurry to do it that night (when Walmart was the only thing open), I would have bought something I could stick on a breaker bar.

I found these:

http://amzn.com/B000JOT2TM

They are pretty expensive, but they have the 6mm in with a 1/2" drive.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon888 View Post
Wow, that's really weird. I also have a 2012, but the drain bolt is a standard 18mm hex. A couple of days ago, a member, who is also a VW tech said something to the effect that VW is discouraging draining the engine oil through the pan and to change the oil by siphoning it out. Perhaps this bolt is part of their evil plot to keep "Mr Shadetree" away from their engines. It'll be interesting to see what direction this goes.
I ended up changing my oil yesterday and also found the 18mm hex bolt on my pan... Not sure if I really like if VW decides to vacuum out the oil rather than letting it drain... Quite a bit of crap on the bottom of the pan IMO.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:42 PM   #12
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I changed the oil on my GTI after 3500 miles ( currently 11,000 miles). I used Mobil-1 0W-40 as recommended. I ordered the factory filter online and it was the easiest oil change I ever performed on any car I have owned. There is of course always some splashing and mess when the drain bolt is removed.
Now a few weeks ago I discover the fumoto valve and then I purchase the F106N.

My dilemma was do I change the oil again? No way. Should I drain the oil and pour it back risking some fine contaminant? No way. So, knowing physics and such I decide to loosen the oil drain plug, open the oil filler and place my shop vac hose ( cleaned thoroughly) right into the oil filler. I unscrew the drain plug and hear the sound of vacuum, replace the drain plug with the F106N. Done. Not a single drop of oil exited while the drain port was opened.

Great product, now I really want to use it to change the oil!
Before you ask, it really can't be opened without very significant force on the valve lever that swings the ball open to release the oil.
Here is the link: http://www.qwikvalve.com/
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #13
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just looked under car and my plug is a hex key plug...going to have to get the set I found on Sears. Don't want to try to get it off with the small ones I currently have. Going to have to get a new magnetic convential plug too.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:07 PM   #14
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Just purchased Craftsman Evolv part #10058 7-pc hex bit socket set which includes 3-10mm sockets. It was $9.99 plus tax.
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