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Old 08-13-2012, 10:04 AM   #29
DaveSTR
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my dealer. had to call around to 5 to find one that had it in stock. the pan is about $170 list, but the gasket sealer is $39. Thats the most important part for a successful job. Its the best sealer i ever used, almost like cement.

at first they said $320 out the door. Then I talked them down since they mark up over list.. ended up about $260 out the door.

06J-103-600-T
Oil pan with allen bolt x1
Paid $165.00

03G-103-707
Cover for oil level sensor x1
Paid $13.20

038-103-196
Silicone washer for cover x1
Paid: $5.00

N-015-082-13
Nuts for cover x 3
Paid: $1.74

D-174-003-A2
VW Genuine Sealer
Paid: $37.00
Wow!! Thanks for the quick turn. Im going to forward the part #'s etc to my parts guy here. Good guy and willing to deal. I will respond back with what they tell me here. After my recent first service and going through 2 bolts this morning and leaks, might be time to follow your lead on this....thanks!
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:21 PM   #30
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Not surprising. I was a tech at Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler and they all occasionally had these allen bolt style. Even some of the trade in's (nissans, fords, a jetta or two, etc.) had them. Most of them had allen bolts for the diff fluids, so not really shocked that they would use them for the oil too.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:41 PM   #31
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Any updates on possible leaks after replacing the hex type bolt with the standard bolt? I plan to complete my first oil change in the morning and bought the bolt below from ECS. I currently have the hex allen bolt on my 2012.



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Old 08-31-2012, 06:49 PM   #32
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Any updates on possible leaks after replacing the hex type bolt with the standard bolt? I plan to complete my first oil change in the morning and bought the bolt below from ECS. I currently have the hex allen bolt on my 2012.

i think the hex allen bolt is better personally.
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Old 08-31-2012, 06:57 PM   #33
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Should I just reuse the hex allen tomorrow and plan on buying another or a fumoto valve for the 2nd oil change?
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:05 PM   #34
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Well, I reused the hex allen today. I may have added a tad bit to much oil, but will check it again later and drain a tad out if I need to. I will also keep on eye on it and make sure I have no leaks. I need to order a Fumoto valve to make life easier.

Can anyone with the Fumoto valve tell me if it's possible to drain just a little oil with them, if someone accidently overfills, can they be cracked open slightly?
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:12 PM   #35
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how do you add too much oil? you put in 5 quarts and forget about it. i've done that on my last 10 oil changes and its perfect.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:39 PM   #36
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5 qts was about 1/2 a qt to much. I was only able to lift the passenger side of the car, due to my jack stands being to tall. I think this angle caused less oil to drain out. This was my first oil change at 5700k miles and it will be done again at 10k. I changed the filter too, but for the next change I will jack up both sides, after I buy some smaller jack stands. The ones I have I used for my FJ Cruiser and they wouldn't fit in their lowest position. I have more oil and will keep checking it, but I don't want to run it far overfilled. Checked it cold and warm, and it had to much.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:55 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mk6cruzen View Post
Well, I reused the hex allen today. I may have added a tad bit to much oil, but will check it again later and drain a tad out if I need to. I will also keep on eye on it and make sure I have no leaks. I need to order a Fumoto valve to make life easier.

Can anyone with the Fumoto valve tell me if it's possible to drain just a little oil with them, if someone accidently overfills, can they be cracked open slightly?
It's a valve. Of course you can. Open and close at will.



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Old 09-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #38
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Additionally, on these newer 2.0T's, you crack the 18mm to remove it and it immediately leaks out, almost as if the threads do not seal all the way in.
Had this happen on mine when I did my first change (my factory plug was the standard style, not hex key). Was crazy, gunked up a pair of nice mechanics gloves (normally I use the mechanics gloves to remove and loosen everything, then I switch to latex to remove the plug and remove the filter). I cracked the bolt and it hadn't even made a half turn and oil is pouring out.

Also, a thought to ponder about the dealers using suction over drain. The filters are now accessible from the engine bay, so if you then eliminate the drain there is NO reason to lift the vehicle. Oil changes can be done much quicker and without using up a lift bay needed for more serious repairs/services. I wouldn't jump all over the fact that the dealers use them to immediately state that suction is "better". It has a purpose and it is easier and for most cars it makes no difference. But for people like us, is having it be easy more important? Or do we care a little more.

Someone with one of the suction systems should use it, then lift the car and pull the drain plug. Be interesting to see how much is left, and what is in it.

Personally, I plan to swap my plug out with a magnetic one to keep an eye on wear which will require draining.
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:26 PM   #39
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with the numerous good reviews of the Fumoto plug, ill prob install it next time i change the oil.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:55 PM   #40
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Yeah, I think I will do the Fumoto next time as well. It will make it very easy to change the oil. However, the new hex allen bolt is nice and seems to be built to reuse safely. I will keep an eye out for any leaks on it. I torqued it down to 23lbs, 1lb over the specified 22lbs.

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Old 09-01-2012, 11:58 PM   #41
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It's a valve. Of course you can. Open and close at will.



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I've seen valves that there was no inbetween, it was either open to far or closed. Those didn't work well to slowly drain. Hence, why I asked about the Fumoto.

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Old 09-03-2012, 08:07 PM   #42
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Wish I found this thread before reading other DIY guides that led me to think my 2012 would have the standard 18mm plug

So I have the recessed hex plug also so I'm going to pick this set of sockets up:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-evolv...1&blockType=G1

Any further updates on whether I can just re-use the existing plug and not worry about leaks? Does it have a crush washer attached? Or just be safe and buy new set and replace each time?

How about the ECS plug with this oil pan? Anyone having good luck w/ their magnetic plug and copper washer combo?
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