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Detailed DIY-Lowering Springs Installation

rockerdan

Ready to race!
Just installed my H&R Super Sport springs.....I did a detailed DIY , anyone doing springs this might help you if its your first time. :thumbup:

Click here for Spring install DIY

Or scroll down to post #5 below for DIY:clap:

Dan
 
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VW-TX

Go Kart Champion
Please make a DIY post here as well and not just link it to the other site in case that site goes down or the post is lost since it's mixed in with another post. Otherwise awesome diy. Thanks!
 

rockerdan

Ready to race!
Please make a DIY post here as well and not just link it to the other site in case that site goes down or the post is lost since it's mixed in with another post. Otherwise awesome diy. Thanks!

Thanks bud! Let me see if i can copy and paste the HTML into this thread directly below :)

Dan
 
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rockerdan

Ready to race!
H&R Super Sport Springs DIY

Pasted in from my original build thread on other site.:clap:

I finally got my springs and wheels done! It was actually rather easy for my first time, and even though i read several DIYs none of them seemed to be very detailed. Some of them use the remove HUB/axle method while others use a simpler method. I did the simpler method. There also seemed to be alot of questions about jacking the car up properly, so i decided to detail how i did mine.

I think anyone could do this, just have the proper "special tools" and at minimum you should replace the stretch type bolts that hold the pinch spindle around the strut itself. Other bolts/nuts i reused. Many replace all bolts/nuts but IMO the ones that are truly needed i only replaced. My car only had 5k miles on it, so i did not replace the bearings or anything else, I will be adding koni yellow sport shocks at a later date. :D


Rockerdan's H&R Super Sport DIY

**Special tools needed:**


Strut spreader tool



M14 Triple Square



Coil Spring Compressor



13/16 or 21mm Offset box wrench




**Bolts needed(12mm X 80mm): VW Part # N-909-548-02, 2 needed



FRONTS REMOVAL:

1. With car on flat surface, apply hand brake and put car in gear or park.

2. Jack up front under rocker panel where VW jack would go, I used a piece of OAK approx 4"x3.5" between my floor jack and car. At this time do not raise tire off ground.













3. With tire still contacting ground slightly, crack loose wheel lugs just a tad using 17mm socket or VW lug wrench(I did job alone so had noone to put foot on brakes to keep wheel from turning)


4. Now jack up the car far enough to place a jackstand under where the LCA(Lower Control Arm) connect to car.




5. now that one side is on jackstand, lower jack and go to other side, it makes the job much easier and faster to get entire front
up in air.


6. Jack up other side in same spot, loosening lug nuts a tad, then jacking rest of way and placing jack stand at rear of LCA.



7. Now entire front end is in air, now remove jack altogether and remove both front wheels/tires from car.



7a. At this time locate the ABS wires, I highly recommend pulling them out of their anchors, this allows alittle more free play in wiring so they dont get stretched when removing struts.




8. Locate the sway bar link, and remove the top 18mm nut that attaches link to strut, Just lay
each link down out of the way. Do BOTH sides of car.










9. Remove three 16mm nuts on very bottom of LCA. These need a deepwell or wrench, do both sides of car.






10. Push down on LCA so they come off and away from ball joint, just push it down and out of way best you can,do both sides of car.





11. PINCH SPINDLE: At bottom of strut, using a M14 Triple Square on stretch bolt, and 18mm deepwell socket on nut, remove the stretch bolts that "pinch" the spindle around strut bottom. at this time do one side of car.









12. Using a strut spreader tool, insert tool into rear slot, and twist it 1/4 turn to open the "pinch" on spindle.






13. With pinch "open" you will feel the spindle begin to drop, you will need to stomp on the rotor to get it off. Mine came off pretty easy, this is where having both sides of sway bar links off helps alot, otherwise you are fighting the sway bar. It helps alot if you can push the LCA and sway bar down, having a buddy hold them down makes it alot easier so when you stomp the rotor it pops down low enough easily. I did mine alone and wasn't too bad.





14. Once it was at bottom, i was able to get a screwdriver in there to get it out completely.









15. Now go under the hood and open up the rain tray above strut. Pull out the foam seal at edge, then pull some rubber weatherstrip off so you can lift rain tray enough to expose three 13mm bolts on strut tower.





16. Loosen the 13mm bolts, on the last bolt reach down and hold the strut with one hand so it does not drop when you remove last bolt. As you pull out strut, make note of the REARWARD hole, take some blue tape and put a piece of tape around edge at the rearward hole. this will assure the strut mount/bearing plate goes back in exactly then same later.






17. I put the strut into a vice to hold it(careful how you clamp it!!)......using a spring compressor tool (got mine real cheap at harbour freight) compress the stock springs enough to remove pressure so when you remove nut it doesn't kill you!






18. once compressed, remove the large 21mm NUT on top of strut. This is where a special tool is needed, I ended up buying a offset box wrench set at harbour freight for only $15 for entire set, they did not have a set with 21mm though, so i got SAE set and used the 13/16 size which worked perfectly. You need to hold the middle shaft with 7mm allen wrench/socket. Notice Tape on rearward hole.







19. Remove the 21mm nut , remove strut mount/bearing plate and remove stock spring from strut. Notice how bump stop is oriented.






Spring compare





20. Install new lowering spring over strut, be sure to install spring with writing/part numbers right side up, so you can read springs when upright, also be sure to slide bump stop on correctly, install strut mount/bearing plate and install nut hand tight.




21. before tightening, slide the dust boot up into the bearing plate and be sure its seated and snapped in, you can slide up the bottom of dust boot sleeve alittle instead of stretching the boot too much. Also be sure bottom of spring itself is seated properly into strut seat. Now tighten the 21mm nut, holding the 7mm allen. Torque these down pretty hard IMO.




22. Now set this finished strut over at car near where it came off from.....and remove the other side strut repeating steps 11 thru 21. DO not mix them up.:thumbup::thumbup:






FRONTS REINSTALL:

1. Basically going to reverse the removal.....be sure to locate the peice of tape at the rearward hole of strut mount/bearing plate, hold strut up with one hand while guiding down a 13mm bolt from under the raintray. Start the bolt by hand, this will help hold the strut up. Make sure the hole with tape is rearward.





2. Install and snug down all three 13mm bolts at this time. Notice tape is rearward.








3. Now insert strut spreader tool into spindle, open the "pinch" up, and work the strut back ontop of spindle to start seating it.








4. Reinstall three LCA 16mm nuts on very bottom, and torque down.






5. Place floor jack under LCA bolts, and pump up....you will see the spindle slide upward around strut. Pump it up all the way til the strut bottoms into spindle, be sure its all the way in.








6. Remove strut spreader tool. Install NEW stretch bolts into spindle, and existing 18mm nuts. Using M14 triple square and 18mm deepwell socket tighten/torque down.





6A. Fully tighten the three 13mm bolts under rain tray and remove jack from under LCA.


7. repeat opposite side.:thumbup::thumbup:


8. Once all done, install the sway bar links on both sides of car, with the 18mm nuts. torque down.





9. reinstall the ABS wires into their holders.



10. reinstall wheels and lower car, torque wheels.






REAR REMOVAL: (much easier and quicker)

1. On level ground, block front tires and apply hand brake, and put car in gear or park.

2. place jack under middle of car at rear frame/crossmember. Its right behind the spare tire well.









3. once jacked up, place jack stands under each side where stock VW jack would go.








4. Remove rear wheels with 17mm socket or stock VW lug wrench. Pics, stock springs before removal.









5. Remove LCA (lower control arm) 18MM nut.










6. Once nut is removed, place floor jack under LCA.






7. Jack up jack slowly, and just high enough to allow LCA bolt to be pulled out.





8. once bolt is out, lower the jack slowly allowing stock spring to become loose.




9. remove spring




pics of top and bottom seats





10. remove top rubber seat/cushion


compare pic




11. install top rubber seat/cushion onto new lowering spring, making sure the words/part numbers on springs are facing upward so you can read them when installed.





12. install new spring into LCA, making sure to seat it properly into the bottom seat in LCA.







13. Place jack under LCA, and jack up lining up the LCA , once high enough tap existing bolt into place from rear.





14. Install 18mm nut and torque down.




15. Once both sides of car are done, reinstall wheels, torque


DONE!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 
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rocklah

!!!duplaticus!!!
Nice DIY

Nice DIY,

I knocked this out last weekend when I installed my drivers gear springs. Quick question,

I used the disconnect the hub from axle method but in your diy you just disconnected the endlinks on both the drivers and passenger side and the rotor hub assembly was able to slide off the strut? Was there still a lot of resistance because the axle was still attached to hub?

Thanks and great DIY I never was able to figure out how to get the dust cover back up into the top of the strut but from your DIY I see it was possible.
 

GTIMKV20

APR Stage I
WOW! Wish I had this DIY when I did mine as this is incredibly thorough!

Strut spreader is an absolute must for this install, don't think you can do it without it, it's a bitch!
 

rockerdan

Ready to race!
Nice DIY,

I knocked this out last weekend when I installed my drivers gear springs. Quick question,

I used the disconnect the hub from axle method but in your diy you just disconnected the endlinks on both the drivers and passenger side and the rotor hub assembly was able to slide off the strut? Was there still a lot of resistance because the axle was still attached to hub?

Thanks and great DIY I never was able to figure out how to get the dust cover back up into the top of the strut but from your DIY I see it was possible.

Without removing HUB and disconnecting AXLE i believe its much easier and faster, especially if you have a friend to help. I did mine alone and it was no prob.

The drive axle does push down on the sway bar when you are trying to "stomp" down on rotor to release spindle from strut. Most guys who tried this and could NOT get spindle to drop of strut had this happen cause axle hit sway bar. As I said in DIY unbolting BOTH SIDES of sway bar links(driver and passenger sides) helps this problem alot, since you are not fighting the sway bar anymore. BUT it still needs a hard stomp to get it down, IF you have a buddy to push down on sway bar AND LCA while you stomp rotor, it will pretty much fall right off easily then! Much depends on how old car is, and how much rust ect. Mine is like new so came apart easily.

But in the end, as long as you have the spreader tool inserted fully, that spindle will drop WITHOUT removing HUB from axle.:clap::clap:

As for dust cover, i found its much easier to make sure its seated up inside the bottom of bearing cup/plate before you put back in car. It easy to see when its on the bench!

Dan
 

rockerdan

Ready to race!
WOW! Wish I had this DIY when I did mine as this is incredibly thorough!

Strut spreader is an absolute must for this install, don't think you can do it without it, it's a bitch!

I heard(after i bought my spreader tool) some guys had used a 1/4" extension, which apparently fits perfectly then you twist it w/ the same method.

A definite must either way you do it, tool is needed!

:w00t:
 

DBESTGTI1

Go Kart Champion
A couple things, unless you car is low miles and new spray the shit out of the upper sway bar end link nut. It's not uncommon at all to have to cut them off because the nuts gets stuck on and that little 6mm triple square on the inside snaps sockets.

The other thing it on the front strut mounts on the rubber there are arrows molded into the top, they should point straight front to back when installed correctly. There is a little rubber nub that sticks out it, with it all installed you should be able to look up at the bottom of the strut mount and see the rubber tab sticking out to your left (regardless of which side your looking at it with will be on your left for that side)


** I believe it's left, I'm going off memory **
 

Krausen

Ready to race!
A couple things, unless you car is low miles and new spray the shit out of the upper sway bar end link nut. It's not uncommon at all to have to cut them off because the nuts gets stuck on and that little 6mm triple square on the inside snaps sockets.

The other thing it on the front strut mounts on the rubber there are arrows molded into the top, they should point straight front to back when installed correctly. There is a little rubber nub that sticks out it, with it all installed you should be able to look up at the bottom of the strut mount and see the rubber tab sticking out to your left (regardless of which side your looking at it with will be on your left for that side)


** I believe it's left, I'm going off memory **

So, how much for you to install springs when I get them?
 

rockerdan

Ready to race!
A couple things, unless you car is low miles and new spray the shit out of the upper sway bar end link nut. It's not uncommon at all to have to cut them off because the nuts gets stuck on and that little 6mm triple square on the inside snaps sockets.

The other thing it on the front strut mounts on the rubber there are arrows molded into the top, they should point straight front to back when installed correctly. There is a little rubber nub that sticks out it, with it all installed you should be able to look up at the bottom of the strut mount and see the rubber tab sticking out to your left (regardless of which side your looking at it with will be on your left for that side)


** I believe it's left, I'm going off memory **



Mine is like new with 5K and no winter, so it all came apart super easy....as for the rubber strut mount, i know about the arrows ect but to try to see them easily is a pain, I felt adding tape when removing made it much easier and assures they go back the same way. Either way be sure to get them back same way and same side IMO.

Many of you with higher miles should replace your strut bearings too. Helps alot with any possible binding noises, and they are not too expensive.

Dan:thumbup:
 
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