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Old 06-29-2012, 01:21 PM   #29
fredf
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Originally Posted by NOLA-Ron View Post
Wow.

Well, I know a catch can does nothing from all my research but W/M is the only other option to prevent it? I'm not willing to go that route with my car, personally.

That's the only other preventatives? I was planning on keeping this car for the long haul but that means facing this issue every 50k miles? I bought my car in March and already have 6k on it.. I drive a lot for work unfortunately.
Blasting the valves should cost something like $400. Depending on your mileage you shouldn't have to do this more often than say every 4 to 6 years.
It's still cheaper than a DSG service.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:22 PM   #30
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One other thought. Why $800 top clean the valves? Most of the cost to clean the valves is the labor to remove the intake manifold and get to the valves. But they are doing that already under a warranty claim to replace the manifold. Why charge you AGAIN for that labor? Can you say rip-off? At a floor rate of $120/hr, $800 equals 6.67 hours of labor…just to clean the valves? Maybe they should charge an extra hour of labor to clean the valves. Those guys sound like crooks.
Excellent point. Notwithstanding that this should be under warranty, the cost over changing the manifold shouldn't be over $200.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:32 PM   #31
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This is extremely common for a direct injected engine. The only real option is to get it cleaned either yourself or through a reputable shop. Catch cans do nothing to avoid this problem. I just recently ran meth/water injection in my car, which cleans the vavle head and manifold, completely eradicating carbon build up. Although i did do this early, my car only has 7k miles on it

In sum, the only mod to give you piece of mind is meth/water injection, my kit cost me 300 clams and is a stage 1 Snow performance kit . And once again CATCH CANS DO NOTHING FOR OUR ENGINES!

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Old 06-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #32
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Would this help? Or be a preventive maintenance?

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=80&pcid=12
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:49 PM   #33
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This is very interesting, my car was in for some repairs where they needed to take off the intake manifold. Upon inspection the techs all commented that whatever fuel I using they suggested to keep buying it. They said that the manifold was immaculate and had no build up at 26,300 miles on the clock. I range from aggressive to very passive driving and always buy from mobil or hess gas stations.
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by david9962000 View Post
Would this help? Or be a preventive maintenance?

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=80&pcid=12
no
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:07 PM   #35
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This is very interesting, my car was in for some repairs where they needed to take off the intake manifold. Upon inspection the techs all commented that whatever fuel I using they suggested to keep buying it. They said that the manifold was immaculate and had no build up at 26,300 miles on the clock. I range from aggressive to very passive driving and always buy from mobil or hess gas stations.
This issue seems to be very variable. Just like failing clutches.

Some people feel more aggressive driving helps (eg: Italian tune up) as it causes the valves to get hot enough to burn off carbon accumulation where fuel would otherwise not come in contact to wash them (because of the direct injection).

This has never been proven but there is even an article out there somewhere by VW itself that driving for 15 minutes at >3000 rpm every now and then may have some protective value in preventing carbon build up.

A nice blast on the highway every now and then can't hurt. I make a point of doing 4000 rpm for 15 minutes every several thousand kms. I don't know if it helps but I enjoy it.
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:25 PM   #36
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I haven't modded the car in any way other than tinting the windows and putting a Longhorn on the rear glass. :-)
Well THERE'S your problem...
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:48 PM   #37
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Would this help? Or be a preventive maintenance?

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=80&pcid=12
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Originally Posted by fredf View Post
no
No again....Fuel never hits the valve stems on direct injected cars so it would have no effect.

Some DI cars have a single injector upstream of the valves to provide some cleansing fuel flow. VW is not one of those though..
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:32 PM   #38
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I'll keep you posted on what the dealer says. The more I look the more I think this is a problem with the engine that should be covered under warranty. I haven't seen anyone do this under 50K and most seem to say 100+K.
I had this problem around 42K miles and the dealer refused to cover it under powertrain. I filed a complaint with VWoA and they ended up covering the repair ($980). If they won't cover it, open up a case with VWoA. Its worth the fight.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:39 PM   #39
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Thanks for the input everyone. The dealer is taking a long time to get back to me. I wonder if they are haggling with VW?

BTW, the Longhorns might be the problem. Maybe they are making the car too cooooool to burn the gas properly.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:16 PM   #40
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Dyno it, see if numbers are ok. 25k miles + excessive carbon buildup = bullshit.

I say they're just trying to get more money out of you. Go on a spirited drive or 2
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:29 PM   #41
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Which dealership is all of this taking place at? I bought my car at Archer but bring it to Momentum (the one on Richmond) for service.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #42
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The dealer went ahead and took care of it. I talked to the service tech and he said it actually wasn't so bad. I guess they were on autopilot and said, "there's carbon, it's $800." They said it was SOP to inspect the valves when they replace a manifold. I still never got an explanation about why it was going to cost $800 at that point. Anyway it's clean now and I have a new intake manifold. (And had my 30K service at the same time)

They recommended that I start treating with BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner. According to the BG website:

"BG Gasoline Direct Injection Cleaner is a two-part chemical process formulated to quickly soften and disperse baked-on deposits which accumulate on the intake valves of direct-injected engines."

You pour one bottle into the gas and one bottle into the oil about every 5000-7000 miles. It's convenient that I can't seem to find it anywhere but from the dealer. They said it was about $40 (they apparently didn't have any in stock). Anyone tried this? Does it work? Can I get it somewhere where I don't have to pay dealer prices for it?

Thanks again for all of the input. Knowledge is power and I was able to make good use of the information I got here today.
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