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So the whole timing chain pulley issue...
- Thread starter NeoSA1
- Start date
BAM its mitch
Go Kart Champion
Why does the cover need to be replaced? Can you not just clean the sealant off the old one and reapply?
Also, is PN 06H109210Q the cover you are talking about?
steelcurtain
Go Kart Champion
So what does MB 213 in the VR6 (chain driven) measure smarty pants?
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BAM its mitch
Go Kart Champion
Which VR6 are you referring to?
Having personally pulled a 12v VR6 apart to replace the timing chains/tensioners/guides/rails/sprockets, I can safely say that there isn't a way for vagcom to monitor chain tension on that engine. I wouldn't expect the 24v to be different in that regard, nor would I expect the EA113 or EA888 to be different.
I assume he's referring to the fact that it is a bear to get off, and is somewhat thin, so replacing it ensures you didn't bend any part of it enough to create a leakage issue.
As for 'official' procedure, you can clean it off, bolt it back on, tighten bolts to 8Nm, then check around the perimeter of the cover between it and the seating surface with a feeler gauge. Any gap of more than .2mm and the cover should be replaced.
DBESTGTI1
Go Kart Champion
The gap is exactly it, there is a small finger looking thing on the inside of the cover that will grind into spinning shit when assembled if it's not exactly perfect. We don't risk it ever, we replace it every time and warranty has never denied the claim to us because of it.
BAM its mitch
Go Kart Champion
:thumbup: Good to know, I definitely wouldn't have bought a new cover otherwise.
Will def look for it!
I'm not sure what book time is on it, but for a home mechanic with hand tools and jackstands, it would probably take several hours. And add time if you're going to do the chains and guides, as you will now have to take off the top cover as well.... For just getting down to the tensioner:
Jack up car
Remove RF wheel
Remove RF liner
Drain engine oil
Remove charge air pipe
Remove accessory drive belt
Remove crank damper bolt and damper
Support engine
Remove engine mount bolts
Remove engine mount bracket (need to lower engine a bit, not enough room between engine and frame rail for 3/8 drive with 3/8 drive triple square on the forward bolt)
Remove dipstick tube
Remove cover.
ErBall
Measurement Mogul
That honestly doesn't seem that bad. I take it this is something I should absolutely do as I have an 09 TSI?
I won't speak for anyone else, but I have personally never replaced gears unless they were the specific reason I went into the engine or if metal was chewed in the chain/gear area. Being a closed and lubricated system, gear wear should be minimal unless there are extremely high miles or poor maintenance. The primary reason for replacing the chain is stretch and ultimate failure, and the guides are plastic so there is some wear.
You will also need a T10352 to remove the control valve (and remember it's threaded left hand!) on the forward cam in order to get the bearing bracket out. Both the T10352 and T10355 couner hold tool can be purchased online from SnapOn (roughly $53 plus shipping for both). Be careful not to buy the T10352/1, total different spacing on the pins.
No idea as to the quality/completeness of the Bentley, but if you pay $35 at erwin.vw.com, you have 24 hours access to the VW manuals, and you can download them in PDF for all the components of the car. Really handy for working on the car, pull them up on an iPad.....
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DBESTGTI1
Go Kart Champion
The cam position could be changed with a tune because of having control over the cam adjuster... but that's not what we are talking about. Nobody here except you is talking about the cam adjuster. We are talking about the chain tensioner. The chain is either tensioned or it's not, it's that simple. When it loses tension and the chain slips, you will get a fault for cam/crank allocation because it knows the current position of the cam in comparison to the crank is fucked up and it should not be in that position. By that point you already know it's fucked up, because the car wont run for shit. There are value blocks to monitor the adjustment the cam adjuster makes (the ones you listed) but that is not relevant in this conversation or a direct measure of the timing chain tension.
Your taking correct information and interpreting it wrong and twisting it because you don't know what it means.
I never said that the engine had to be pulled out completely. According to the ELSAWeb procedure, it says that you need to lift the engine up about 50mm (to remove one of the engine mount bolts) and then lower it back down by 100mm. This is supposed to be done with the special VW engine lift support cradle. If we can leave the engine in place, I'm certainly not complaining. DBESTGTI is the expert on this, so go with what he recommends. I think this is definitely DIYable now, but if you're under warranty, I'm not sure I would risk it (if your engine is running perfectly fine now and you f*ck it up trying to replace the tensioner, you're in a worse off position than you were to begin with because you can bet your bottom dollar that VW won't cover the repairs under warranty). A better option is to either wait for an RVU type deal (which I highly doubt will happen) or pay your dealership the labor (provided it's within reason) to remove the lower timing cover and see if they'll cover the tensioner and new lower timing cover under warranty.