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Just installed Ed's Newest Replica Headlights and Tail lights. Also new exhaust tips.

pixlgeek

Passed Driver's Ed
Received Ed's OEM Replicas two days ago and got around to installing them over the break.

I think they look fantastic. The quality and fit is perfect no problems at all. I think the highline mod I did on the grille ties really well with the chrome in the headlights.

Once installed I had to use my VAGCOM cable to code the car and also wired pin 1 and 4 together on the headlights so that the LEDs act as DRL and are on with the low beams. Everything looks great. Night shots coming soon.

Please let me know if anyone has questions on installing this into their vehicle. Coding, fitment, etc.

Also welded on two new exhaust tips. I think they add a nice touch to the rear end.

Comments?

-pixlgeek









 
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YeahBuddy

Go Kart Champion
Firstly, looks awesome.
I have a 2011 TDI with the same headlights, I just got my euro switch, waiting on trigger wire.. Running LED's with low beams only atm.

What coding was necessary thru VAGCOM? And what/how did you wire the connector?
Id like to run them solo as DRL's and on with low beams as well.
 

pixlgeek

Passed Driver's Ed
Firstly, looks awesome.
I have a 2011 TDI with the same headlights, I just got my euro switch, waiting on trigger wire.. Running LED's with low beams only atm.

What coding was necessary thru VAGCOM? And what/how did you wire the connector?
Id like to run them solo as DRL's and on with low beams as well.

I'll have to get you my coding tomorrow. I had to make lots of changes for everything to function properly without Errors. But I'm happy to report everything is functioning great and I'm error free. I can remember that the Instruments were set to RoW GTI. Like I said I'll get you the rest tomorrow.

As far as running the LEDs as daytime and with LB, I followed this guide. Instead of the sheet metal or whatever they used I just took a bit of wire I had for electronic projects, stripped off about a half inch of the rubber from each side. I then took pliers and bent the exposed wire into a flat loop. Then bent the wire to fit into the space.

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=659915&postcount=163

Let me know if you'd like me to give you more info on this.
 
I'll have to get you my coding tomorrow. I had to make lots of changes for everything to function properly without Errors. But I'm happy to report everything is functioning great and I'm error free. I can remember that the Instruments were set to RoW GTI. Like I said I'll get you the rest tomorrow.

As far as running the LEDs as daytime and with LB, I followed this guide. Instead of the sheet metal or whatever they used I just took a bit of wire I had for electronic projects, stripped off about a half inch of the rubber from each side. I then took pliers and bent the exposed wire into a flat loop. Then bent the wire to fit into the space.

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=659915&postcount=163

Let me know if you'd like me to give you more info on this.

i need to do this, so i can run my leds with my low beams.
 

J-Dub1488

Ready to race!
very nice! might have a couple questions when im ready to install about coding
 

AXO

Go Kart Champion
They look Great! I definitely need a set of LED Tails!
 

pixlgeek

Passed Driver's Ed
Thanks everyone. Excited about getting all the ordered parts in. I got a great deal on the full set of chrome switches from Bold Sport (Drivers Side Window, Passenger Side Window, Mirror Switch, Euro Switch) all for 99.00. Also got the euro cup holder with bottle opener as a set for 45.00. Ordered the under seat storage from ECS for 80.00 / each.
 

pixlgeek

Passed Driver's Ed
Side note. The Lamin-X Headlight covers are a pain in the ass to install. I tried with one headlight then pulled it off and put it back on the backing because I just couldnt get it right, and I am used to doing these kinds of things. Warning given.
 

pixlgeek

Passed Driver's Ed
can you help out with the leds with low beam? pics of what you did? i saw the other DIY, just want more info to be safe

Sure.

I took a different approach to the different versions I've seen. I saw one using some sort of sheet metal bent into shape and another with exposed copper wire. I figured I should be using a sheathed wire (i.e. not stripped) to prevent oxidation/rust/what have you.

Here is a very crude step-by-step of basically what I did.

Start with your piece of wire. The glasses are in there for comparison of size. The best way to gauge the size is cut your wire once you have your connecter off the lights and measure by stretching the correct length of wire.



Strip both ends of the wire about 3/4 inch length to expose the wire.



Bend each end into a flat loop so they are both flat in the same orientation.



Bend the wire into so that the two ends will align with slot 1 and 4 in your harness/connector. It's best to do this while you have the connector in front of you.



Now you want to make the wire hooked at each end to slip into ports 1 and 4 on the connector you want the bend to be large enough to make sure the wire goes all the way into the terminal to make contact with the metal. Here's the trick though. When putting your wire into the terminal, dont put it between the two metal contacts (in the center of the terminal) put it between the metal contact and the inner plastic wall of the terminal so that when you put the connector back into the headlight. The pins should open up making a better contact with your wire.







This is a representation of a single terminal. The green are the two pins the black is the edge of the terminal. You want to sandwich the metal between the pin and the inner wall.



This is roughly (very roughly lol) what you should have. The red is the wire. It should be tucked in the gutter of the harness.



At this point you should have one side of the wire rig you made inside each terminal at 1 and 4 and the other half in the "gutter" of the connector. Tuck the part in the gutter against the inner wall as flush as possible so that when you push it back into the headlight it doesnt pull the wire out of the terminals.

Now carefully slide the connector back onto your headlight, BUT JUST ENOUGH SO THAT IT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE PINS ON THE HEADLIGHTS BUT NOT ENOUGH THAT YOU HEAR IT CLICK IN TO LOCK. Once you feel like they've made contact test your setup. These connectors are a pain in the ass to pull off so it will be much easier to adjust the wire without having to unclip the harness.

Once you know your setup is working, firmly push the harness onto the light until you hear it click and lock.

You should be good to go.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need more clarification.
 
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