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Old 03-28-2013, 11:05 AM   #29
BAM its mitch
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The bolt is what holds the pulley on.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:59 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAM its mitch View Post
The bolt is what holds the pulley on.
thanks
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:12 PM   #31
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I am interested in the Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by timneedscoffee10 View Post
So I'm going to do this this weekend... just want to make sure I understand the sequence of events before I get too far into it - I'm a little confused about removing the crankshaft pulley and the cover.

Do you use the counter-hold tool and an impact gun to pull the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the pulley, then replace the bolt loosely before removing the cover? Or, does the pulley come off, and then you have to use the counter-hold tool and an impact to remove the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the cover, and then you replace the bolt loosely?

Sorry for the newb-ish question - better to ask before I'm under the car, haha. I'll take a ton of pictures and see if I can supplement this with an "idiots guide" - but it seems pretty straight forward already.

BTW - I bought the counter-hold tool for this job, but don't ever expect to use it again. If anyone wants to buy it, let me know -- it'll be in the classifieds next week.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:18 PM   #32
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I am interested in the Tool
Send me a PM -- don't want to thread-jack this into a classified. Tks
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:26 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timneedscoffee10 View Post
So I'm going to do this this weekend... just want to make sure I understand the sequence of events before I get too far into it - I'm a little confused about removing the crankshaft pulley and the cover.

Do you use the counter-hold tool and an impact gun to pull the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the pulley, then replace the bolt loosely before removing the cover? Or, does the pulley come off, and then you have to use the counter-hold tool and an impact to remove the crankshaft bolt so that you can remove the cover, and then you replace the bolt loosely?

Sorry for the newb-ish question - better to ask before I'm under the car, haha. I'll take a ton of pictures and see if I can supplement this with an "idiots guide" - but it seems pretty straight forward already.

BTW - I bought the counter-hold tool for this job, but don't ever expect to use it again. If anyone wants to buy it, let me know -- it'll be in the classifieds next week.
In for supplemental idiots guide and additional pictures.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:24 PM   #34
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So I started this about 2 hours ago, so far so good (going very slow, making sure I store and label all the bolts, and putting all my bits and tools away between steps - I hate when I have a bit one second, and then have to spend 30 minutes looking for it when I turn back around).

Hit a quick question mark, though... I have a call into HSTuning, but maybe someone here knows.

There are two notches on my engine cover, at about 12 and 4 oclock, as GTIProject indicated there should be; however, my pulley only has ONE notch. I assume I line it up with the 12 o'clock mark? Of note, the replacement cover only has one notch at 12 o'clock (no mark at 4), which is why I feel like that's the one.

Anyway - taking a quick break... but when I go back out I'm going to pull the engine mount and bracket, and then I'm ready to pull the cover and replace the tensioner.

I'm taking a ton of pictures, but so far there's not a whole lot to supplement except for (a) how to remove the T.O.P, and (b) how to remove the serpentine belt - neither of which I'd done before.

UPDATE: just got off the phone with HSTuning... the explanation I got it that as long as you're careful to keep tension on the chain (zip-ties) while you remove the old tensioner, that you don't have to worry so much about being in TDC. If you do slip the chain, TDC is the only way to 100% guarantee you're timed correctly afterwards - but you have to pull the top cover, and can turn the engine over several hundred times before you're in TDC anyway. Plus, since the pulley is keyed, you can't get it back on wrong. Back to the garage!
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:08 PM   #35
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this pdf file is a good read http://www.neuspeed.com/media/attach...9_62.10.92.pdf
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:33 PM   #36
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Welp - this job is on hold until tomorrow... need a very short 10mm triple square bit to get the engine mount bracket off. Not a lot of wiggle room there, and I'm having trouble getting in there with what I have.

Looking carefully, I'm questioning wether taking this bracket off is completely necessary. It's hard to tell.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:06 PM   #37
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Honesty I am worried if I take it to the dealer to get it done they would start a long line of issues.....
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:34 PM   #38
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DIY: TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Update

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Honesty I am worried if I take it to the dealer to get it done they would start a long line of issues.....
How so? Aside from not having the triple square bit I need, this is very straight forward and non invasive. Only thing you could possibly screw up is not keeping the timing chain under tension; in which case your engine will eat itself when you start the car up again - which would be very obviously the mechanic's fault if that happened, and unrelated to any possible mods. Not a can of worms situation.

BTW, for those of you looking to do this yourselves: it's a very convenient time to also do Turbo outlet Pipe and/or Engine mounts.

Full required tool list, and more pics, coming on Sunday. The triple square I have is 1/2" too long; my dremel will fix that in the morning, and I expect the rest of this to be a cake walk. I'm doing SPM mounts, a WALK kit, and readjusting my shift linkages while I'm in there. I'll include my modified triple square bit with the counter-hold tool for whomever that goes to next.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:47 AM   #39
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I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.

I'm going to have my tuner do this when he does my clutch in the next few weeks. Sigh.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:11 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timneedscoffee10 View Post
I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.

I'm going to have my tuner do this when he does my clutch in the next few weeks. Sigh.
Is it the 12mm that is giving you issues?

Go to Oreilly and buy 2 packs of the triple square bits (comes with 4 or 5 sizes, all of them are a few inches long) for ~$5 each

For one of the bolts I needed the bit to be full length. For another I needed it chopped down short and used a box end wrench on it. Admittedly for the one with the box end wrench, I didn't torque to spec because fitting a torque wrench in there wasn't happening. If you absolutely have to get a torque wrench on it then you are likely going to need a crows foot that extends past the edge of your torque wrench(note this actually changes the torque value based on the distance that the torque wrench is offset from the center of the bolt, you can calculate the change though) and a torque wrench that works in both directions.

*edit*

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

This link demonstrates what I was talking about.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:53 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAM its mitch View Post
Is it the 12mm that is giving you issues?

Go to Oreilly and buy 2 packs of the triple square bits (comes with 4 or 5 sizes, all of them are a few inches long) for ~$5 each

For one of the bolts I needed the bit to be full length. For another I needed it chopped down short and used a box end wrench on it. Admittedly for the one with the box end wrench, I didn't torque to spec because fitting a torque wrench in there wasn't happening. If you absolutely have to get a torque wrench on it then you are likely going to need a crows foot that extends past the edge of your torque wrench(note this actually changes the torque value based on the distance that the torque wrench is offset from the center of the bolt, you can calculate the change though) and a torque wrench that works in both directions.

*edit*

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

This link demonstrates what I was talking about.
It's the one towards the rear of the car. The two up front I could get to. I already closed it up and installed new engine mount. Not worth the effort at this point since I'm going to have the clutch done anyway - will just ask them to do it while its on their lift.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:40 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timneedscoffee10 View Post
I'm defeated. Can't get that engine mount bracket off. If I had the right triple square it's this would be cake. I just trimmed mine up using a die grinder, which lets me get in there, but I still don't have the right bits it seems.

did you use to the jack to raise the engine up a little for more clearance.
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