GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

DIY - Golf R Illuminated Cup Holders

jikhead

Ready to race!
You can technically do this for any vehicle.

I've done this on my previous two cars: WRX and a 370Z. On the WRX, lighting options seemed limited back in the mid-2000's. I used a simple led light from Radio Shack. I finally stumbled upon EL wire for the 370Z; which is what I had in mind for the Subie but just didn't realize EL wire was out there. EL wire is definitely the way to go.

As far as the tools you'll need for doing the EL wire:
1) EL wire of choice; things to consider are color and size. I'm using 2.2mm
2) 12V inverter for the EL wire
3) Any EL wire accessories that you wish or would like. I also bought a 3-way splitter and 3-foot extension. You can also buy the little end caps for the wires. I just put a very thin coat of silicone on the end of the wires to ensure the end was sealed from outside elements.
4) Drill and drill bits
5) Some wire connectors for the 12V inverter; or you can wire anyway you want. I plan to wire it to the interior fuse box with one of those fuse expansion slots so that the wires light up only with parking lights and headlights switched ON.
5) Clear silicone sealant. Any sealant should work. One with a fine tip would help with your bead. NOTE: You must use silicone. Attempting to use super glue or any type of adhesive will eat thru the outer sleeve of the wire and damage the phosphorous element. Trust me. I originally used Loctite glue and had to replace the wire after about a month three times in my Z. I thought it was getting liquid damage but it was actually the glue. When I switched to silicone, never had the problem again and it was finally permanent. Photos of damage from using glue are below.

EL wire things to consider:
Color: Note that true colors will actually vary when lit up from what is listed on websites. I'm using white and when lit, it has a slight bluish tint. When I did my 370Z, all of the interior lighting/gauges were orange. However, the orange wire I ordered lit up yellow. After showing some photos to the website guy, he said his red would match the orange. He was right, the red wire matched perfectly and was the same orange color. As for the Golf R, the interior gauge color seems to be a redish color and a red EL wire will not match it. You could try a blue or bluish hue wire to match the blue speedo/tach needles. I opted for white to try and match the white part of the gauges on the speedo/tach.

You first need to disassemble the center console. I used these two guides for removal. The first one seems a little better to work with.
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25407
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95746

I just silicone'd and taped the wires down and leaving them to dry overnight. I will finish the right up later. For the mean time, you can view some of my photos from my 370Z to get an idea of things, and also a comparison of the actual orange wire versus the red wire. Remember that the orange wire looks yellow and the red wire looks orange. You can clearly see in the photos.
http://sdrv.ms/14WBWAO
http://sdrv.ms/19AJgTN
http://sdrv.ms/14WC2Z9 <<<----good view of the orange wire lit up as yellow
http://sdrv.ms/14WC43p <<<<<----why you don't want to use super glue or any adhesive variant.
 
Last edited:

jikhead

Ready to race!
You guys can help me out...I've looked at the interior fuse panel diagram and I don't see one listed that just jumps out at me being a switched type of fuse...meaning one that provides power when I put my headlight switch to the parking or headlamp position. I'd prefer to not have to wire it thru the firewall to get to the fuse panel in the engine bay. There has to be at least one fuse in the interior...I would think, but this is a VW and they don't do things like most other manufacturers. Any help ahead of time would be great.
 

jerome99

Go Kart Champion
You guys can help me out...I've looked at the interior fuse panel diagram and I don't see one listed that just jumps out at me being a switched type of fuse...meaning one that provides power when I put my headlight switch to the parking or headlamp position. I'd prefer to not have to wire it thru the firewall to get to the fuse panel in the engine bay. There has to be at least one fuse in the interior...I would think, but this is a VW and they don't do things like most other manufacturers. Any help ahead of time would be great.

where in little rock are you and are you on the ARDUBS facebook group? the newsouth gauge install doc has you tapping into the headlight switch harness for lighting.

Boost GaugeWiring

The NewSouth Performance VW White boost gauge lights up
during the day and is dimmable at night, like the Mk6 instrument
panel.
1. Remove headlight switch. Press in and rotate right. Pull
switch out.
2. Peelback headlight wiring harness covering to expose
wires
3. Use red autotap connectors to attachwiring
Ground–black gauge wire to brown headlight wire (position
6 on harness connector)
Switched 12V–red gauge wire to black/purple headlight
wire (position 4 on harness connector)
Dimmer –yellow gauge wire to gray headlight wire (position
10 on harness connector)
 

jikhead

Ready to race!
where in little rock are you and are you on the ARDUBS facebook group? the newsouth gauge install doc has you tapping into the headlight switch harness for lighting.

Boost GaugeWiring

The NewSouth Performance VW White boost gauge lights up
during the day and is dimmable at night, like the Mk6 instrument
panel.
1. Remove headlight switch. Press in and rotate right. Pull
switch out.
2. Peelback headlight wiring harness covering to expose
wires
3. Use red autotap connectors to attachwiring
Ground–black gauge wire to brown headlight wire (position
6 on harness connector)
Switched 12V–red gauge wire to black/purple headlight
wire (position 4 on harness connector)
Dimmer –yellow gauge wire to gray headlight wire (position
10 on harness connector)

This should work, although I'd like to wire it to the parking position wire (as I have the euro switch). I guess I can try tapping the yellow wire I had to install with the euro switch to get the parking lights to work.

No, I'm not a member of that Facebook group and didn't know anything of it. I will be going out tonight's Meet, Eat, And Greet for June at Dave's Burgers in NLR. Will you be in attendance? Also, do you happen to have a VAG-COM?
 

jerome99

Go Kart Champion
This should work, although I'd like to wire it to the parking position wire (as I have the euro switch). I guess I can try tapping the yellow wire I had to install with the euro switch to get the parking lights to work.

No, I'm not a member of that Facebook group and didn't know anything of it. I will be going out tonight's Meet, Eat, And Greet for June at Dave's Burgers in NLR. Will you be in attendance? Also, do you happen to have a VAG-COM?

tonight i have to drive out to jonesboro, I dont have vagcom both some of the guys in the group do. we are having a big bbq\private car show on july 13 find me on facebook and i will add you to the group. /jerome99 behind facebook.com
 

jikhead

Ready to race!
I wasn't able to work much on this tonight but I do have some photos of what I have so far. You'll notice that with my camera phone, that the EL wire has a bluish tint to it. The photos are very deceptive and the wires don't look 'that' bluish. But it's like what I said in my firs post about the actual colors being different.

So I removed all the tape and tried to remove as much excess silicone as I could. I used my fingernail to scrap excess on the plastic above the wire and below the wire. Be gentle because you don't want to inadvertently remove too much and make the wire loose. I have a spot on each wire that is slightly raised and that didn't fully seat down on the cupholder plastic. However, it should be fine. I also lightly scrapped on the wire itself too; but again be careful.

I also have the center console laid out along with the wiring to give you an idea of how things should be laid out when I put it back together. I show you the 12V inverter up front that would be underneath the dash/steering wheel area; then the 3 foot extension down the center console; then the 3-way splitter connected to the wires. The reason I bought the 3-way splitter instead of a 2-way is because I had planned to also put a 3rd wire along the upper/outer trim of the cup holder. I had originally thought that the cupholder was molded into the center console piece; I didn't realize it was a separate piece. Once I saw this, I decided not to do that 3rd wire. I don't think I could really get it to look the way I would want. I would want to take my dremmel and cut out some of the trim on the console and the amount of trim I cut off would be replaced with the EL wire. Again though, I don't think I could get it perfect and would likely hate my work in the end. Had it been all one piece like I originally thought, it would've been much easier. I had bought a 2.2mm and 1.9mm wire for this too.

http://sdrv.ms/14uVPN6
 
Last edited:

jikhead

Ready to race!
where in little rock are you and are you on the ARDUBS facebook group? the newsouth gauge install doc has you tapping into the headlight switch harness for lighting.

Boost GaugeWiring

The NewSouth Performance VW White boost gauge lights up
during the day and is dimmable at night, like the Mk6 instrument
panel.
1. Remove headlight switch. Press in and rotate right. Pull
switch out.
2. Peelback headlight wiring harness covering to expose
wires
3. Use red autotap connectors to attachwiring
Ground–black gauge wire to brown headlight wire (position
6 on harness connector)
Switched 12V–red gauge wire to black/purple headlight
wire (position 4 on harness connector)
Dimmer –yellow gauge wire to gray headlight wire (position
10 on harness connector)

I still need some assistance from you guys; I need a different wire to tap into. I tried tapping into my yellow wire that I ran for the euro headlight switch. It turns on fine, but when you switch to the headlamp position, the wires turn off. So I then tapped into the black/purple headlight wire above; it turns on with both parking and headlamp position which is what I want. However, there doesn't appear to be enough amps to fully light the wires, as they are very dim and about less than half lit up in brightness. The yellow wire lit them up fully. So i brought my battery pack down to do a comparison and you can see in the photo below the difference: the bright wire is off the battery pack and the dim one is from the switch/purpleblack wire.

http://sdrv.ms/14uVPN6

SO I need a different switched 12V wire. Any ideas? Does anyone know which wire is the illumination wire on the stereo harness (on back of stereo)?

EDIT: Found this from this post...I will try the grey wire in the morning...night. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ng-diagram&p=75598335&viewfull=1#post75598335

this is a DIY I used for the wiring diagram

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ghlight=stereo


Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: This vehicle uses the CAN-Data system for accessory turn on.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Part of the Antenna Connector
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Red
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Brown
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Violet
 
Last edited:

jikhead

Ready to race!
So I found a more idea place to grab an illumination wire: the 12V power outlet in your cubby tray. The connection is simple because it just has a positive, negative, and illumination. You've already taken it out to do this DIY. However, I ran into the same problem as last night: it doesn't light up 100%. So I broke a voltmeter out and the illumination wire is only putting out 7 volts: that's why it's not lighting up all the way. I also tested the illumination wire on the stereo harness and same thing.

So now I'm trying to find an absolute 12V power source that is switched on with the parking/headlights. I may be forced to run a wire to the engine bay area. I going to run a long wire outside the car and tap the parking lights and see if that works; guess I should actually test it with the voltmeter first.
 

jerome99

Go Kart Champion
So I found a more idea place to grab an illumination wire: the 12V power outlet in your cubby tray. The connection is simple because it just has a positive, negative, and illumination. You've already taken it out to do this DIY. However, I ran into the same problem as last night: it doesn't light up 100%. So I broke a voltmeter out and the illumination wire is only putting out 7 volts: that's why it's not lighting up all the way. I also tested the illumination wire on the stereo harness and same thing.

So now I'm trying to find an absolute 12V power source that is switched on with the parking/headlights. I may be forced to run a wire to the engine bay area. I going to run a long wire outside the car and tap the parking lights and see if that works; guess I should actually test it with the voltmeter first.

You may have to run a relay to have that 7v trigger a full 12v from the back of the radio

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 

jikhead

Ready to race!
http://sdrv.ms/14uVPN6

Well, I finally have it finished; although I'm going to re-silicone one of the wires. A section of it came lose after trying to get the lower console piece back it. That thing is a bitch trying to get it over the emergency brake.

So for the wiring what I did is the following:

For the ground wire, I tapped into the ground point where I have my wiring of my radar detector. You can tap into any ground point that you can find: the brown wire on the 12V power socket outlet, ground wire on the stereo harness, or the chassis.

For the power wire, I connected some extra wire to the positive wire of the 12V inverter. I then fed this wire thru the main wiring harness grommet, which is located on the drivers side up above the clutch to the left. This wire feeds thru the grommet into the engine bay. I then feed it down to the wiring of the driver's side marker light. This is were I tapped into to get the parking lights working; so I figured it would work and resolve my 7v/12v issue. I did test it and it is putting out 12 volts. So the wire that I fed for this project is also tapped into the grey wire of the side marker lamp.

Note, that you'll have to completely remove the battery and that tray that it sits in, in order to get to the rubber grommet for passing the wire from the interior to the engine bay. I also disconnected the far left black ground wire on the fuse block (which is to the right of the battery). I did this so that I could completely remove the battery tray.

So I now have most of the wiring completed. Next up is running your EL wiring around the shifter, AC ducting, etc. After this, it's a matter of reinstalling everything. Put the battery back in, reconnect that black ground wire on the fuse block. Note that the positive battery wire runs inside that front plastic surround/bracket. Then reinstall all of the console pieces. The front lower console piece is a pain to get around the emergency brake. Be careful to not damage or break anything; I ended up putting stress on one of the EL wires and it partially came loose. From here, you should be done. You should immediately test everything after reinstalling the battery...but before you put all of the console back together.

I put some comments on some of the photos for additional help/info. Remember that the wires I bought are actually white and it really has a light bluish tint. My camera makes it look straight-up blue. In some of the photos, I have the wires and the gauges in the shot. I would put the actually color tone/hue of the wires somewhere in-between the white of the speedo/tach and the blue of the speedo/tach needles.

http://sdrv.ms/14uVPN6
 
Last edited:

Outkasted24

Hoping to Own a GTI Soon
:thumbsup:

Does the El wire come in Red also?
I think that would look uniformed to the lighting in our cars.
 

jikhead

Ready to race!
:thumbsup:

Does the El wire come in Red also?
I think that would look uniformed to the lighting in our cars.

It does, but if you'll read my first post about colors....a red wire actually looks orange and it won't match the interior. I still have a red wire leftover from my Z. Let me finish eating and I'll go light it up in the R to show you. I know what you are getting at...if there was a real EL wire that would light up a deep red, it would match our interior lighting. You can ask around to some of the main dealers, but I know that elwirepro.com doesn't; as their red wire is what I have. I just sent an email to thatscoolwire.com to ask them.
 
Top