FS: Ed's Golf 6 Replica OEM HID Headlights

Is there any way to make the headlights aim any higher than the plastic screws allow them to go? :/ Debating on running these lights again after removing them after only 3 months of having them on the car.

edward@becautoparts.com said:

Either options are fine, just remember, you need some sort of rubber grommet for the rear cover if you use the Denso ballasts, and you probably need to make the hole a little bigger to run the D2S plug.

If you don't want to bother enlarging the rear hole cover get the D2S plus with an AMP connector or use D2H bulbs which the retrofitsource sells.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, Ed! Last question..what is the difference between the D2S and D2H? Is one easier to work with or a better fit?

spiker369 said:

Is there any way to make the headlights aim any higher than the plastic screws allow them to go? :/ Debating on running these lights again after removing them after only 3 months of having them on the car.

Click to expand...

These lights have the leveling motors in them, unfortunately for us, we don't have the wiring setup on our cars here in the US or Canada.

If you got the leveling switch and ran the wiring, you can improve how high/low the beam pattern is. There was a guy selling the kit here recently.

The only difference between the D2H and D2S bulb is the base, the bulbs at the retrofitsource are a good quality product, the D2H bulb is the same as the D2S, its just the base is different.

Assumed you all would appreciate this instruction before you make it 10 times harder then it needs to be and break tabs...

Also.. You dont even need the flathead.. if you just pull back the tab the flathead pushes out when he twists it with your thumb instead, it is the same thing.


How to unplug stock halogen light from harness

http://www.a4mods.com/library/videos/headlight_clip.avi

OP, probably wouldnt hurt to put this in original post...

edward@becautoparts.com said:

These lights have the leveling motors in them, unfortunately for us, we don't have the wiring setup on our cars here in the US or Canada.

If you got the leveling switch and ran the wiring, you can improve how high/low the beam pattern is. There was a guy selling the kit here recently.

Click to expand...

So basically there isn't a way to aim them any higher than using the plastic screws?

Ed,

Do you think you will get MK7 replica's that will fit in the MK6? With the new square LED halo?

I probably wont be getting anything like that for the Golf 6, as it depends on the various manufacturers deciding if they want to make it or not. As the Golf 7 is coming just around the corner, the demand for Golf 6 parts will drop and I doubt most of these manufacturers are willing to invest the money in developing these headlights.

I still have a couple set of the Option 1, chrome, non leds in stock. I will have a very small number of the Option 3 and 4 available after Nov 26th.

In terms of keeping stock available, I will continue to try my best.

I just want to double check. There's no way to run the LEDs as DRLs and parking lights (euro switch) other than using the jumper wire inside the harness, right?
I currently recoded my lights to have the LEDs as parking lights and have no DRLs that way i can have full control, but I'd still like them to turn on without me having to turn the switch each time I get in and out of the car.

spiker369 said:

I just want to double check. There's no way to run the LEDs as DRLs and parking lights (euro switch) other than using the jumper wire inside the harness, right?
I currently recoded my lights to have the LEDs as parking lights and have no DRLs that way i can have full control, but I'd still like them to turn on without me having to turn the switch each time I get in and out of the car.

Click to expand...

Correct. (ish)

Not sure I get what you want in second paragraph.
The LEDs are wired as the parking lights. So standard coding is that they are off with switch in off position. In parking light position they come on and also on in low beams position.
Seems like you put your coding back to that.
So are you saying you want them as drls as well?
The lights have no wiring for the drl pin circuit inputs. So you have to add the jumper wire to take the drl circuit signal to connect to the LEDs (parking lights) in order for them to come on and complete the drl circuit. Then the LEDs are on as drls and also as parking lights and with low beams.

You could try changing the coding to have parking lights as drls. This should change the drls circuit signal to be the parking lights (LEDS). So without the jumper wire the LEDs should then be your drls. But when you put it to parking lights the LEDs go off and the they are also off with low beams. So adding the jumper wire, like above, keeps the LEDs on in all three modes.
So the coding doesn't really matter.

I think my coding is set to have drls as parking lights (second way above) and I think I have the sidemarkers also on with drls. This I don't want and have been meaning to investigate to figure it out but I just haven't bothered yet. I also get the HIDs flicker on startup when drls are on.

For completeness, I also have the auto sensor for my euroswitch, depo LED tailights with rear fog and byte 18 coded to 04.

Is this what you wanted to know?

I'm not sure my coding exacts, I can get that tomorrow.
But thank you. You cleared it up.
I used to run the LEDs as DRLs (off with parking position and low beams) but I didn't like that and got weird issues with the jumper wire during that setup.
Now I have them as parking lights (you say that's how they should be) so I have full control over them but no actual DRLs. I also don't have any side marker bulbs in, I checked the box for led running lights and it removes the error for them without doing anything else without the byte 18 codes to change it.

I think you just need to add the jumper wire and make sure it is properly installed.
I had trouble getting the lights working with this until I realized the jumper wire was not connecting correctly. In the pin for drl (pin 4 - I think. Can't remember but it's not the corner one.) put the wire end inbetween the pin clamp in the harness. For the other one, pin 10, double over the wire end and put it outside the pin clamp against the outside edge. The pin in the headlight will go into the pin clamp and spread it out to make good contact with the jumper wire.

I'm going to have to check mine again and see if I can get the sidemarkers to not be on. I haven't seen anyone else confirm that this is normal or not.

I may try the jumper again. Idk. What type of wire are you using? I was using pickup wire used for stereos to just transfer the current but the wire would break from time to time. :/

But when I did have the lights coded the same way you do (LEDs as DRLs and off in other switch positions unless added jumper) the side markers were always on.

I didn't have any wire and couldn't find single strand copper type. Was under pressure and stumbled upon some in michaels of all the damn places. Something like this #16 gauge copper wire http://m.michaels.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-Michaels-Site/default/mProduct-Show?pid=bd1276

I think I am going to try put the coding to not set the drls and parking lights and see if that removes the sidemarkers being on. Should do since the sidemarkers are on the parking light circuit also.

hey what do you mean by the resistor problem, if i buy the headlights will i have to switch any resistors or have you taken care of that already...