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Old 10-09-2013, 03:13 PM   #15
lilfleck
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Added a link to my research thread on installing an OEM K04:
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63119
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:04 PM   #16
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Bump. Added some more tips and added helpful tools section.

Also helpful:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptic1911 View Post
If everything comes apart, it's really not that bad. I had a bitch of a time getting it all apart because all my bolts were rusty as hell. Going back together wasn't bad at all. I would pb blaster everything and let it sit if it's rusty at all

Make sure you have some LONG allen sockets so you can get the heatshield off.. its impossible to get at it with short ones, and allen keys flex too much

My downpipe bolts were rusty as shit.. I had to pop my ball joint bolts and inner axle bolts so I could move the axle front and back a bit so I could get in there with a wrench and with a pipe on it. I didn't have enough room to get a breaker bar

My oil return line bolts on the turbo (triple squares) were really rusted, so I had to hose the shit out of them with pb blaster and hammer the bits in there so I could pop it loose

When you pop the small coolant lines in the engine bay, you're gonna loose coolant out of the two on the drivers side, so wire them up, otherwise it'll keep draining all over.

The rear coolant line on the turbo (banjo bolt), pop it loose, and let it trickle into a pan, and go get a drink for a bit. If you just pop it off, you'll have like 3/4 of a gallon of coolant pouring all over everything

You'll need 3/8" extensions and either a swivel joint, or a ball end extension for a socket so you can get to the front downpipe bolt on the bottom

I took the whole heatshield off with the coolant lines attached, rather than separating it, but make sure you put your coilpack harness above it when you reinstall. I bolted it all back in with the harness trapped under the metal coolant line. It doesn't hurt anything, but I can't get it out now without removing the lines lol

My turbo manifold nuts were rusted to the studs, so the studs came out. I called the dealer, and they didn't have any in stock, but he said the audi dealer had some

Remove the turbo outlet rubber hose, and also take the 3 allen bolts out of the turbo housing that hold the outlet tube into the turbo muffler (the part where it expands to like 3"), otherwise you'll have a bitch of a time getting the turbo out. I got it loose and couldn't get it up and around the head without taking that off

I'd put the turbo outlet tube, and the diverter valve in after you bolt the turbo in so you don't bang them around trying to get it in there

I bought this set of allen / torx / triple square bits, and it helped a ton to have the different length bits, and the ability to use a 10mm wrench to turn some of the short ones http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40-Piece...=triple+square

These long allens are what I needed to get the 6mm bolt out of the heatshield.. it's so close to one runner on the manifold that you can't get anything else larger on it
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-d...ece-67890.html

and these long ball allens were a life saver for me a few times as well. I think I had to use one of these to get my turbo support bracket bolt out of the turbo.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-m...ece-67888.html
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:16 AM   #17
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Bumping this as I just revised it with updates from my second go-around.
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:30 AM   #18
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Here is a bolt I stripped during my latest install (turbo support bracket, (was a) 6mm allen):




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Old 08-26-2015, 08:32 AM   #19
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Oh man. That bolt is an asshole.

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Old 08-26-2015, 08:42 AM   #20
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LOL it really is! How did you get that off for your install?
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:57 AM   #21
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Well first off I took the bracket out with the turbo so I could take care of this bolt on the bench. Ultimately after about a week of PB blasting it took a 7/16" Allen socket, 3/8 to 1/2" converter, a 1/2" drive 2' long breaker bar, consistent tapping from a hammer to keep all that in the head of the bolt, a pipe wrench on the outside of the bolt and two men combined 350+lbs to break the sucker off of there. That was our last ditch effort before trying to torch the thing off and salvage the bracket. Honestly I'm surprised we didn't crack the nut from its welds when it broke loose.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XGC75 View Post
Well first off I took the bracket out with the turbo so I could take care of this bolt on the bench. Ultimately after about a week of PB blasting it took a 7/16" Allen socket, 3/8 to 1/2" converter, a 1/2" drive 2' long breaker bar, consistent tapping from a hammer to keep all that in the head of the bolt, a pipe wrench on the outside of the bolt and two men combined 350+lbs to break the sucker off of there. That was our last ditch effort before trying to torch the thing off and salvage the bracket. Honestly I'm surprised we didn't crack the nut from its welds when it broke loose.
Haha wow. Well, luckily I got it off after about 20m of fussing with it outside the car. I also removed the turbo w/ the bracket on. SUPER annoying because you have to loosen the v bracket on the engine block. Tight clearance only allowed me to use a hand wrench to turn some of the nuts...

I tried removing it by doing all the above, but I couldn't get it to budge... so I took a socket and 2' (1/2" drive) breaker bar and cracked the weld loose. It was way easier and I was able to just use a brand new bolt with a proper hex head on there! So happy that's done with...
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:17 PM   #23
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I think i'm going to have to remove the turbo from the underside. The 6mm allen bolt (lower one just above manifold) rounded almost instantly, despite having a LONG allen and making sure that it was seated all the way in. What a massive pain in the arse!

Has that happened to anyone else and if so how did you remove the heatshield bolt?
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:22 PM   #24
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Also why the hell do they use hex bolts! Such a massive pain in the arse!
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:28 PM   #25
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Agree 10,000%
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:07 PM   #26
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I just want to know why that one bolt is such an oddball.

Sincerely, XGC75
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:35 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichBGTI View Post
I think i'm going to have to remove the turbo from the underside. The 6mm allen bolt (lower one just above manifold) rounded almost instantly, despite having a LONG allen and making sure that it was seated all the way in. What a massive pain in the arse!

Has that happened to anyone else and if so how did you remove the heatshield bolt?
You can't remove the turbo without removing that bolt. That bolt screws into the head of the motor. If it is really fubar'ed you're going to have a helluvatime trying to get it out. A local (well known) shop technician told me about the first time he did that he ended up spending most of his day cutting out the headshield so he could remove the bolt and turbo...
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:37 AM   #28
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Saw a video on YouTube where the guy removed turbo from underside and left heatshield in place. Going to try removing that damn bolt again in a while... Hopefully better luck this time...


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