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Driver Motorsport stage 2 review

FriggenT

Go Kart Champion
Well this has been a while coming since I've had the tune for a little bit now. Firstly, I would like to say that Bronson is excellent to deal with and is loyal to his word. I went ahead and got a package deal with him with just the standard tune and the Forge intake that goes along with it. The downpipe is a EuroCustoms 3".

I had no issues dealing with Bronson and I sent out the ECU and got it back quickly. I'm sorry, but I'm not going to pay 100-200 or more to do the little bit of work I could do myself. DM did not charge for the flash, so I get all of the money in the tune and not the BS overcharging many places seem to do these days.

The DP, has a great sound, but mild. It's not an APR, but most of you know (or should) that a 3" piece of pipe is a 3" piece of pipe. The welds are done nicely and while it's a 2 piece pipe with a v-band clamp in the middle, after you drive it a while and then retorque it, there are no issues with exhaust leaks, though just for the sake of doing it I may just get the 2 welded together at a later time.

The intake was an issue for me. This is not the fault of DM, nor am I blaming them. The version of their MK6 there (overseas) doesn't have the same location for some of the brake lines and master cylinder. Anyway, I have had a lot of rattles and have had to adjust and re-adjust it to get it right over the brake lines, though from what I've read, this isn't a new issue. The quality of the piece itself is nice. It's a solid piece that has several silicone couplers so that you can adjust each part the way you want to if you so desire.

So how does the car pull? Well, it pulls REALLY hard. It's very deceptive and I can feel the power still being very linear as the OE set-up is, at highway speeds with either staying in 6th or kicking it down to 5th gear will easily have you to 100 mph+ without even realizing it. I will try to get a video of some runs posted up in the next week or two and you all can have a better idea of how it runs. Overall for the money I paid in total, I'm quite happy with it and would do it again.

Lastly, the mileage has increased and the typical trip I make during the week I can get mid to high 34 mpg, I am now (driving the same way) getting 35.8-36 mpg avg. This is perhaps the best part :)
 

jamlee

Ready to race!
What was the turnaround for your ecu? And how difficult is it to remove the ecu from the car?

you have to take off your wipers, remove all plastics(cowl) around the bottom of the windshield, then you have access to your ecu. you also need to get a dremel and make a slit in both security screws to remove the bracket which holds the ecu
 

Driver Motorsport

Ready to race!
you have to take off your wipers, remove all plastics(cowl) around the bottom of the windshield, then you have access to your ecu. you also need to get a dremel and make a slit in both security screws to remove the bracket which holds the ecu

^This is a good way of doing it. Once you have the cowl off, you have more access to your ECU.

There's another way of doing it that is a little bit faster but you don't get the same type of access to the ECU. You remove weather stripping, unbolt the 2 screws on the driver & passenger side that go to a piece that shields the cowl from the engine bay. Remove this piece by pulling it forward, you now have access to your ECU.
 

808bahn

Ready to race!
Can u post a pic of the location of those screws?

^This is a good way of doing it. Once you have the cowl off, you have more access to your ECU.

There's another way of doing it that is a little bit faster but you don't get the same type of access to the ECU. You remove weather stripping, unbolt the 2 screws on the driver & passenger side that go to a piece that shields the cowl from the engine bay. Remove this piece by pulling it forward, you now have access to your ECU.
 

Driver Motorsport

Ready to race!
Can u post a pic of the location of those screws?



^ That is the shielding being removed.



^ Driver Side

Note - These are not my photos, a forum member on vortex created these.
 

FriggenT

Go Kart Champion
you have to take off your wipers, remove all plastics(cowl) around the bottom of the windshield, then you have access to your ecu. you also need to get a dremel and make a slit in both security screws to remove the bracket which holds the ecu

no you don't... I didn't do any of that. Youtube ECU removal.
 

808bahn

Ready to race!
Great, Thanks! So, would getting your Stage2+ w/o an intercooler be detrimental? Planning to get the intercooler at a later time.



^ That is the shielding being removed.



^ Driver Side

Note - These are not my photos, a forum member on vortex created these.
 

Turbo Beetle

Ready to race!
808bahn - That's not really a yes or no answer.

Yes, It'd be safe. Timing advance & load would be pulled once IAT got to a certain threshold though. So it'd be fine, but for best results and to meet advertised output you'd need an uprated intercooler.


What about stock I/C with water/meth?
 

FriggenT

Go Kart Champion
yeah in the vid it shows you dont have to but for more room you can, just depends on how comfortable you are with or without.

Yes, it does make more room, my hands are skinny enough that I didn't need to do that though luckily.
 

dhockey11

Passed Driver's Ed
I took the rain cowl and the shielding off so I could easily pull the ecu out and such. Takes 15 mins total. Loving my DM stage 2 tune, have had it for over a month now.


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