Polar FIS Review by DarkGTI

Hey, this is my first time doing the review, so any input is appreciated.

I got one of the units at Waterfest at KermaTDI, and installed it the same day.

Updating software
Before you instal it, it's recommended to check for software updates, just follow steps in their manual, everything is pretty much straight forward, we need the white dot version, the only thing I noticed is that you can only use Internet Explorer browser, as the technology they use to provide the updates is called ActiveX and is deprecated for Chrome and Firefox. I had a Windows 7 laptop, and I had to change some ActiveX settings in order for it to work. I selected the latest software and it updated the device. It hang on the "Please wait for update to finish"(or smth like that) for 10+ minutes, so I just closed the browser and disconnected the device hoping it has updated successfully. Turns out I was right about that.

Install
Install is also straight forward, I had to disconnect my air tube to make it a bit easier. Also, I used double sided tape to stick it inside there, there is a metal area that seems to be away from anything hot/cold, so I've just put it there. I can provide pics of this installed if anyone is interested.
After connecting the connectors, as the recommend, I just closed all doors/hood/hatch took my key out of ignition, and let it sit for 5 min. After that I put my key in start position, and nothing happened- no additional display, nothing. I closed my doors, turned off everything and let it sit for 10 min. This time it worked. The menu that Polar FIS provides appears instead of Phone menu, and to access your original phone menu you will need to select option "Bluetooth" from the Polar menu. I didn't disconnect the battery.

Setting up
Setting up is very easy and I got a hold of it pretty quickly, the only thing that bothered me at first is that displays are listed the "mac way" where when you press "up" you got from screen 1 to screen 2 and so on.
Some tips about setting up. All buttons work on the steering wheel, but to go back from the screen parameters setup you need to click "Back" like 3-4 times, what you can do instead is just go "left" or "right" and then go back to "phone" and it will display the screen right away.

There is this one neat function where you can setup the right mirror to go down in parking position when you are in reverse. Also pretty straight forward, the only thing is that you need to leave your knob in "right" position in order for it to work and also select "Manual" in the menu when setting up the position.

So images of displays I've setup:





My device is called PolarFIS Advanced PF03. I think it's the latest revision.
Installed pic:


Overall
Do it. My opinion is that this is the best bang for the buck in terms of monitoring. You can see REAL coolant temp, IAT, lambda, boost, Oil temp etc. Instead of having million of gauges that just start stacking over the dashboard, you can have a native interface and see it right in front of you on the dash. Amazing device. Also, Polar rolls out updates pretty often, and they fix bugs/add more features, so this is another one big plus.
Also this device can be "shut off" so dealer won't even see it.

Update after month of using
So I went on vacation or 2 weeks and left my car in garage, and when I came back battery was dead. This is the first time this happened to me, so just beware that this device may drain your battery.

Nice review Anton!

Love mine simply for the passenger mirror lowering feature.

For the boost, what setting do you have it on in order to read correctly in negative and positive areas?

How's the update rate? IMO these aren't the best for monitoring boost or timing advance, but really great at coolant, oil temp, battery voltage, etc.

Ah, yes the boost setup. At first it was reading the wrong value, as they say in their manual "..for some cars boost value is divided by factor of 2..." so in boost options I selected "Inform.x2" and now it's adequate.

As for boost monitoring, I've seen it to be consistent with my analog boost gauge, same values, only the response of the boost gauge is different from the display, but values are pretty much the same.

I just bought it, but I think I saw plenty of software updates, I'm at version 0.4.8*(or something like that), I think the last one was dated November 2014.

Anton you need to install / set mine up please.

i really like mine. had some interference issues with earlier models and KESSY so beware if buying used. also i remember seeing people having battery drainage issues with these guys once upon a time. I had left my car sitting for 2+ weeks and battery was completely dead... Not 100% sure what caused this, but could be a very low constant current draw to the device.

Recently I created a misfire screen and i fairly consistently have 1 or two pop up every so often, but then drop off. If you have a similar one set up would you mind taking a look at it? I have zero codes, and everything feels fine. but dang near every time i'm in my car a number of these pop up.

great review!

I had the same misfire issue, get a smoke test, you'd be surprise at the small leaks we get.

My device is called PolarFIS Advanced PF03. I think it's the latest revision.
Installed pic:

HYDE16 said:

Anton you need to install / set mine up please.

Click to expand...

Bring it to the meet

Totally, if I get it by Thurs!

So being that this hooks directly up to the CANBUS the P3 gauge has no effect? Meaning it will not need to be config mode?

Yup same model and everything i have. IIRC the KESSY issue was specific to north american models for some reason? Regardless auto-polar was fantastic about getting a new one out and reimbursing me for over seas shipping.

and hyde any further info on the leaks causing the misfires? I never would have guessed that (feel free to PM if you want to keep this thread on topic).

My Uni stage 2 intake pipe cracked at the weld for the bracket. Smoke test will show any loose couplers or leaks.

So I have a 2011 Kessy and the same, latest Polar FIS unit like Anton on the way, I shouldn't have any issues?

Did uni bat an eye at replacing the intake or did you seal it up yourself?

You shouldn't. By now I would expect them to be out of their "old stock", and only be selling/shipping the ones with better shielding. I ordered mine a little over a year and a half ago and they were in the middle of addressing the issue at that time.

If you do have issues and want a temp fix while you wait for an upgraded one... I used two layers of aluminum foil around the module.