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mikejsmith1985: 2012 GTI Autobahn

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
I have a build thread on another forum but find I spend most of my time here.

Presently my car sits as follows:



Drivetrain

Eurodyne F23 custom street tune with F23 Turbo

Eurodyne DSG Tune

Forge intake "Euro spec" (FMINDMK6)

R8 CP & NGK Plugs PFR8S8EG (these are 1 step colder than OEM)

Eurojet 3" SS TBE

Frankenturbo F-TOP

Treadstone TR8 FMIC

CTS PCV System

PLX DM-6 multigauge with boost sensor​



Chassis



mFactory coilovers

LHD Touareg Brake Booster and 26.99cm MC

SS Braided lines

Brembo 17z 6 Pot Front calipers from Touareg

Brembo 4 Pot Rear calipers from Touareg

Brembo e-Brake caliper (3rd gen Viper)

Hawk HPS Street Pads

Neuspeed RS-E 12

Kumho Ecsta PS91

034 Street Density Motor Mounts

034 Billet Pendulum mount

034 Billet dogbone mount insert​



I have a custom set of hats for 2 piece rotors, I'll buy rings and install when I change the pads.

Miscellaneous



Antigravity AG-1601 lithium battery with custom modified battery tray.

LED interior lights​



Pending Installs:

Passat aluminum front LCA with super pro bushings.



Wish List:

LSD or AWD conversion
BT











The car was previously APR Stage 2. The Eurodyne tune is very smooth and feels like it has more power up top than the APR Tune.



You'll find I'm fairly indecisive but in time always follow through with whatever I'm working on...



Goal for the build:



  • Have Fun
  • Do things differently
  • Give something back to the community



My build may not always consist of the "best" parts I'll never be the fastest, and I may never meet a single one of you in person. But I enjoy the forums and modifying my car. I hope I can share details about the parts I do install to give back to the community, and I hope I can inspire others to try something new!



The GTI Album:

http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/mikejsmith1985/slideshow/GTI



2/13/16 Update: First Dyno was today pics of the log and map for the highest output dyno can be seen below and is clearly not an accurate power curve for this platform :-( :











9/24/16 Update: I finally made it out to the track after installing my motor mounts and summer tires. My best run broke me into the 12s. The car has more in it but I definitely need to learn to launch the car better ( I actually had a file loaded with LC disabled but didn't have the latest software to change the file and internet connectivity was terrible at the track)



This run was done @ ~ 85* with the AC on [emoji847] and I believe my worst reaction time of the night ( I know RT isn't included in the time just figured I'd mention I'm not a complete sloth) I'm so happy with the tune and the way the car drives. If I had launch control setup and could use it I suspect 12.7xx could be reached. The 335 I raced beat me off the line but never pulled me otherwise and run a 12.7. This specific race was against a new Camaro SS with drag radials but I don't know what if any other mods the car had.



 
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dafuture

Go Kart Champion
Looks good!

I'm curious if you could give me some more in depth impressions of the Eurodyne Stage 2 tune. Why you picked it, driving impressions, did you buy Maestro 7, etc. I've been between Eurodyne and Unitronic for my own Autobahn, and I'm pretty much at a loss of what to do.
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
Looks good!

I'm curious if you could give me some more in depth impressions of the Eurodyne Stage 2 tune. Why you picked it, driving impressions, did you buy Maestro 7, etc. I've been between Eurodyne and Unitronic for my own Autobahn, and I'm pretty much at a loss of what to do.

I've heard AMAZING things about the Uni tunes. As for Eurodyne, I did buy the Maestro 7 package, why I'm running it? There are a couple of reasons.

1. The only other build I've done is 98 GS-T eclipse and you don't really buy "tunes" for those cars you get an eprom ecu and you load ECMLink and you tune your idle, then do third gear pulls on the street/stip to dial it in, or of course you Dyno tune for the best results.

2. I bought the F23T and the best tune you can get for that turbo is to do a custom dyno tune, the majority of the F23 users have at least used Eurodyne at some point and all of that R&D has gone into the base file that Eurodyne supplies. To me this is the better option than running a k04 file with an MBC for potential boost spikes. I may find I'm not happy at all with the base file and I may find that this software isn't as friendly for street/strip tuning as ECM link was, but I have the ability to run an off the shelf tune/ Self Tune/ or professional Dyno tune. I like the options.

3. My favorite reason for this suite though is if I decide to go back to stock or stage 2 in a few minutes I can be running that software in my driveway or if I run across a smoking deal on a BT or max out the fun on the F23 I can switch to any setup I want and I'm not going to have to buy software again. I may have to spend some time/$ on the dyno but to me that's a more fun way to spend the money.

I've only put about 20 miles on the Eurodyne file though its been raining and I blew a stock CP within 5 miles of loading the software so it was down over the weekend while I waited for my new plugs and CP to get in. Then I took it for about a 15 mile drive after installing the new parts. I'll be happy to share additional thoughts as I get more seat time in but it will be short lived once my F23 and IC come in I'll be swapping files and I expect the car to be down for about a week maybe 2 while I install everything. I expect to brake something or need something that I have to order from Germany and ship via carrier pidgeon :p

But I think you'll be happy with either tune you choose!
 

dafuture

Go Kart Champion
I've heard AMAZING things about the Uni tunes. As for Eurodyne, I did buy the Maestro 7 package, why I'm running it? There are a couple of reasons.

1. The only other build I've done is 98 GS-T eclipse and you don't really buy "tunes" for those cars you get an eprom ecu and you load ECMLink and you tune your idle, then do third gear pulls on the street/stip to dial it in, or of course you Dyno tune for the best results.

2. I bought the F23T and the best tune you can get for that turbo is to do a custom dyno tune, the majority of the F23 users have at least used Eurodyne at some point and all of that R&D has gone into the base file that Eurodyne supplies. To me this is the better option than running a k04 file with an MBC for potential boost spikes. I may find I'm not happy at all with the base file and I may find that this software isn't as friendly for street/strip tuning as ECM link was, but I have the ability to run an off the shelf tune/ Self Tune/ or professional Dyno tune. I like the options.

3. My favorite reason for this suite though is if I decide to go back to stock or stage 2 in a few minutes I can be running that software in my driveway or if I run across a smoking deal on a BT or max out the fun on the F23 I can switch to any setup I want and I'm not going to have to buy software again. I may have to spend some time/$ on the dyno but to me that's a more fun way to spend the money.

I've only put about 20 miles on the Eurodyne file though its been raining and I blew a stock CP within 5 miles of loading the software so it was down over the weekend while I waited for my new plugs and CP to get in. Then I took it for about a 15 mile drive after installing the new parts. I'll be happy to share additional thoughts as I get more seat time in but it will be short lived once my F23 and IC come in I'll be swapping files and I expect the car to be down for about a week maybe 2 while I install everything. I expect to brake something or need something that I have to order from Germany and ship via carrier pidgeon :p

But I think you'll be happy with either tune you choose!


You may have just swayed me towards Eurodyne haha. I didn't realize that Maestro give you access to all their off the shelf tunes (not to mention the ability to customize your own), and the fact that it would end up costing less than just Uni Stage 2 and Uniconnect + makes it a great deal. Not to mention that Uniconnect + isn't even on the market yet makes for some pretty good reasons to go with Eurodyne.
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
You may have just swayed me towards Eurodyne haha. I didn't realize that Maestro give you access to all their off the shelf tunes (not to mention the ability to customize your own), and the fact that it would end up costing less than just Uni Stage 2 and Uniconnect + makes it a great deal. Not to mention that Uniconnect + isn't even on the market yet makes for some pretty good reasons to go with Eurodyne.


Well, I'm still new to the software, so far I like it and I believe that its the right tool for me. It won't be for everyone, you can blow up a car really quickly if you're making changes that you don't understand. I definitely recommend giving Eurodyne a look. May be worth calling both vendors. Uni will do custom tunes too, as will any company just may not be the most cost effective solution.
 

dafuture

Go Kart Champion
Well, I'm still new to the software, so far I like it and I believe that its the right tool for me. It won't be for everyone, you can blow up a car really quickly if you're making changes that you don't understand. I definitely recommend giving Eurodyne a look. May be worth calling both vendors. Uni will do custom tunes too, as will any company just may not be the most cost effective solution.

That makes sense. I don't think anyone really wants to blow up their car like that haha. Personally I doubt I will be messing with the custom tunes too much unless someone taught me about how to adjust it. Mostly I just like the flexibility of being able to upgrade to K04 in my driveway (if I ever go that route) without having to pay any additional fees.
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
A little disappointed; IC won't arrive till Monday, still may start disassembly since I don't plan to leave the stock IC in there.
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
Just picked up some clear corners, and I'm starting deconstruction tonight. I'll be removing the stock IC and either making my own brackets similar to the Neuspeed kit or removing the core and using the end tanks like several others have done to allow maximum airflow to the radiator. I'll try to document the process through photos in case anyone else wants to do a similar FMIC install hoping to wrap up the IC stuff by mid week and start the F23 install by next weekend. We'll see how it goes!
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
Stock IC is out! Unfortunately I did crack the clip on the drivers side headlight guide where it connects to the main plastic support.


New part is in order,best price I found was vwpartscenter.net

End tanks are off, decided that I don't believe the time and cost of materials to make an enclosed "wind tunnel" between the end tanks was worth it. I'll just be bolting them back in. Removing them was very simple just pried the tabs on the IC core with a large flat head. Took about 5 mins to get both end tanks off
 
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mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
A few small but exciting updates:
1. Intercooler is out for delivery!
2. IC piping came in on Saturday and they feel plenty sting enough and the included silicone seems to be nice quality. Clamps are so/so. I'm going to use them and do a BLT on the Intercooler prior to install.
3. Picked up an OBD splitter of of Amazon. It was only $7 and is well made. I'll no longer have to unplug my p3 cars gauge just to run a log with vagcom or Eurodyne. I'm really excited about this! ( I do highly recommend plugging directly to the vehicle OBD for any write commands such as clearing a fault, changing a setting, or loading a new tune)









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
So tomorrow I'll be getting my new headlight guide. Today I pressure tested the IC and the "eBay" clamps that came with my pipe set. All good at 50 psi so I'm going to run them. I also finished the brackets/hardware and the IC is mounted. I've not trimmed the crash at and the foam bumper cover still fits. As did the outer bumper cover with my test fitting. It was very tight though. Tomorrow I'll be finalizing the piping and I'm waiting on a reducer for the TOP to IC pipe. Hopefully I'll be able to drive the car by the weekend. Once it's all buttoned up and proves to be leak free I'll provide a write up with parts and pics of the install. So far I've only spent $328 on the entire setup :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
So I screwed up today, got the IC Piping on and fired up the car, I neglected to hook up all of the sensors again and now I've got an airbag light, tcs, and some faults for the crash sensor. I only unplugged 2 connections on the passenger and 4 on the right. They're all plugged in now and although a vagcom scan identifies the faults it won't clear them. I've also tried disconnecting the battery for ~15 mins any thoughts???

Of course don't rush things...
 

Pmanpop

Go Kart Champion
Sweet job man. Love the approach you are taking on all these things. Hoping you get the faults cleared. Any details on your intercooler parts?
 

mikejsmith1985

Go Kart Champion
Got the faults cleared, I didn't realize you had to go to each module and clear faults. I just went to OBD Clear DTCs...

Sweet job man. Love the approach you are taking on all these things. Hoping you get the faults cleared. Any details on your intercooler parts?

Thanks man!
IC isn't perfect but I think it's functional. I'm going to test tomorrow/this weekend. I don't want to order new pieces for a perfect fit till I have the new turbo installed and decide what to do with the TOP.

as for now though I trimmed the plastic shielding just in front of where the OEM IC pipes would be to keep the pipes in tight.

On passenger side a 90* silicone coupler with a straight pipe to 3"-2.5" reducer on the end of the TOP. Then the drivers side is a 90* (need one with longer legs) to a 3" straight pipe with a strait coupler to a 90* pipe to a straight coupler to the throttle body pipe.

I have pics on my SLR ill post with my official write up.

The passenger side required removing the front bolt of the TOP and pivoting it out from the engine to line up. The drivers side requres a long leg 90* silicone coupler or pipe so they reach each other w/o the small straght pipe and coupler added into the mix. My first drive blew the pipe at that extension I've sense modified and will be testing through the weekend.
 
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