MASTER CLUTCH APPLICATION GUIDE - WHAT DO WE REALLY NEED?

[dasauto0108]

i did an lsd and motor mounts. some people do shift forks too. i guess the rear main seal isn't required but not a bad idea.

the other stuff doesn't require trans removal so i don't think stainless steel lines and short shifters should be added in. maybe the lines if you can't bleed it yourself but otherwise it's all easy to install.

^ Agreed. The bushings and short shifter are all easily accessible through the trop of the engine bay, and the work can be done in your driveway, or a garage with simple tools. If you're reasonably handy, you should be able to tackle the shifter and bushings.

 

[skotcoop]

i did an lsd and motor mounts. some people do shift forks too. i guess the rear main seal isn't required but not a bad idea.

the other stuff doesn't require trans removal so i don't think stainless steel lines and short shifters should be added in. maybe the lines if you can't bleed it yourself but otherwise it's all easy to install.

Stainless steel lines? I'm confused.

 

[skotcoop]

^ Agreed. The bushings and short shifter are all easily accessible through the trop of the engine bay, and the work can be done in your driveway, or a garage with simple tools. If you're reasonably handy, you should be able to tackle the shifter and bushings.

Yeah I'm leaning toward the clutch and the mounts. I dont see a reason for the rear crank seal with 16k miles. I wonder how difficult subframe mounts would be from the ground. I think I saw a post about them a while back. I've installed my DV+, discharge pipe, and intake so the bushings shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to double check the quote to see what exactly is meant by the shift kit because I think it just means the APR bracket.

 

[dasauto0108]

Yeah I'm leaning toward the clutch and the mounts. I dont see a reason for the rear crank seal with 16k miles. I wonder how difficult subframe mounts would be from the ground. I think I saw a post about them a while back. I've installed my DV+, discharge pipe, and intake so the bushings shouldn't be an issue. I'll have to double check the quote to see what exactly is meant by the shift kit because I think it just means the APR bracket.

If it is the APR bracket, you can save a lot of money by having them not do that. APR's be bracket is insanely overpriced. You can find metal shift brackets on eBay for $25-35.


Sent from my iHipster

 

[kern417]

Stainless steel lines? I'm confused.

example:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drive...Stainless-steel-clutch-line-Audi-VW-6spd.html

 

[skotcoop]

example:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Drive...Stainless-steel-clutch-line-Audi-VW-6spd.html

Oh nice. Do most people get this when they upgrade their clutches? And what about the dog bone mount insert kit? Will that make your teeth chatter?

 

[skotcoop]

Has anyone tried Black Forest Industries clutch?

 

[JT641]

Oh nice. Do most people get this when they upgrade their clutches? And what about the dog bone mount insert kit? Will that make your teeth chatter?

I did that and more (see build thread for more)

Has anyone tried Black Forest Industries clutch?

Won't touch any of there products:thumbdown:

 

[JT641]

Clutch update as of today I have 44,848 miles on my SB Stage 2 endurance with SMF :thumbup:

 

[skotcoop]

Has anyone experienced a fairly loud chirp sound upon clutch disc engagement? I can't tell if its from the disc hitting the flywheel or from leaving the pressure plate. https://youtu.be/i4vcJk1x-Kw heres my video of it right around 10-12 seconds. Its gotten louder since this video but at one point it went away for a day or 2. Its starting to drive me nuts. I'm running a BFI stage 3 SMFW. It has around 3000 miles on it.

 

[Spyder368]

~350 miles into this setup and enjoying a slip free clutch.

http://www.fourseasontuning.com/500/10/0/1412/fststage3dailytsi-fst-stage-3-daily.html

Plus Four Seasons SMFW

http://www.fourseasontuning.com/500/4/0/997/fst240mm-20ttsik-fst-240mm-stel-billet-flywheel-fits-tsi.html

 

[kthor7031]

Clutch update as of today I have 44,848 miles on my SB Stage 2 endurance with SMF :thumbup:

What sort of driving do you do? What tune/turbo are you running? Thinking about the s2 endurance (s2 daily now with around 40k on Apr k04 3.1). I get intermittent slip at peak torque and a few hundred rpm after. I'm concerned about longevity with the s2 endurance but your results look promising.

Edit: I realized I asked you about your driving habits two pages ago LOL. Do you do any autocross or hpde?

 

[JT641]

What sort of driving do you do? What tune/turbo are you running? Thinking about the s2 endurance (s2 daily now with around 40k on Apr k04 3.1). I get intermittent slip at peak torque and a few hundred rpm after. I'm concerned about longevity with the s2 endurance but your results look promising.

Edit: I realized I asked you about your driving habits two pages ago LOL. Do you do any autocross or hpde?

Nope don't track the car especially since it's going up for sale very soon. you can see everything I've done to it here including latest dyno figures
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46439

 

[kthor7031]

Nope don't track the car especially since it's going up for sale very soon. you can see everything I've done to it here including latest dyno figures
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46439

Cool, thanks.

 

[kthor7031]

Had a nice long talk with Jon from Southbend Clutch today. As others have mentioned, he is very knowledgeable and was super helpful. He not only answered my questions, but gave great advice and some insight on the past development of the MK6 kits from the non silent to the silent designs. I'm going to dump some info that Jon shared with me on their clutch offerings that might be helpful for others.

1. A stage 2 endurance clutch disk will last a bit longer than a daily kit. The catch however is that when the clutch IS done, the flywheel and pressure plate will have sustained more wear than if a daily was used.
2. For all kits, when the clutch is done and needs to be replaced, it is always advised to clean up both the pressure plate and the flywheel to ensure a healthy clutch life and meet the torque holding capabilities. There are exceptions, but resurfacing is best practice as we all know.
3. Southbend clutch will rebuild your kits. This involves sending them all of your components and having the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced and balanced. They will also compensate for the loss of material by providing a slightly thicker friction disk and/or provide some spacers of sorts to make sure the clamping load is the same as a new kit. Turn around time is around 2-3 business days from when they receive it. This does not include shipping time

Overall, never hesitate to give him a call. I left a message one night after hours and received a call back the next morning promptly.

With that, I plan to upgrade to a stage 2 endurance. With the APR k04 3.1 and other high torque k04 files, you are riding awful close to the torque capacity. I am only getting intermittent slip when hitting peak torque. It is only a pause and it resume accelerating once I push past 4500 RPM. While it is "sufficient" to hold the power, as it wears normally, you slowly lose holding capacity as the disk thins and the clamping load reduces as a result of having to keep contact on the disk. This is with all clutch disks, but having more headroom will allow you to stay ahead of the curve longer. If you are a stage 2 user and don't plan to go k04, I'm sure the daily will be sufficient with good life.