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Amping DynAudio Speakers - Worth It?

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Hey guys - I'll be picking up my 2012 GTI tomorrow and am already looking into audio options. I pulled my system straight out of my MKIV - Alpine 12" Type X, F6, and M12.

I'll be keeping the sub setup but I'm curious as to whether my F6 is needed or whether I should just sell it? Birth sheet ratings are 186w a channel. Powered my Type R comps beautifully in my old setup.
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Still no comment on this. My ideas have changed drastically so here is where I am.

- Kept my M12 and putting two 12" MB RLP304's into a custom box under the cargo area
- Using a LCQ-1 to clean my signals
- Sold my Type X and F6 to cover costs
- Got an Alpine F300 4 Channel Amplifier 4x50 at 4ohms 4x75 at 2ohms

Plan is to splice every speakers connection and run it into the cargo area.

LCQ-1 Wiring
FL & FR Tweeter > Channel 1 & 2 on LCQ-1
FL & FR Mid > Channel 2 & 4 on LCQ-1
> Channel 5 & 6 is created from the mids for subwoofer out

Alpine F300 at 2ohms a Channel
Channel 1 = FL & RL Tweeters
Channel 2 = FR & RR Tweeters
Channel 3 = FL & RL Mid Bass
Channel 4 = FR & RR Mid Bass

Each speaker should then be running around ~43w RMS (Birthsheet is 86w at 2ohms)

Alpine M12
Channels 5 & 6 = 1396w RMS between my two subs

Biggest Question: Is splitting all of these wires going to be worth it?
I'm sure the Dynaudio amplifier is only pushing maybe 30w RMS per channel so this will be a small bump in power. The LCQ-1 will give me my EQ which could be great.

Biggest concern is that I DO NOT want to blow these speakers tinkering.

Only fall back to this option is that I lose my fader at the expense of keeping the stock amplifier as a crossover.
 

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
I wish you luck with mounting subwoofers under the cargo area and still having a cargo area.

My only caution with amplifying the Dynaudio speakers is IF the factory amplifier handles any type of processing for the speakers. Some do, some don't, and I am not sure about the VW Dynaudio setup, but I was told it has DSP built-in. If it does, you can probably kiss your tweeters goodbye if you don't high pass them properly.

Going further, I don't think the LCQ-1 is necessary as the factory radio with the Dynaudio setup should be coded for low level outputs in order to feed the stock amplifier. If you are using it for equalization purposes, that's a different story, but you shouldn't need it to go from high level outputs to low level outputs because you are already at low level outputs stock.
 
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pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Yeah, my hope of amplifying the speakers is quickly fading. Seems like much more work than it's worth.

I saw that the MKV Passat Amps could be swapped. Any chance we have something similar for our cars with Dynaudio? I'm assuming our Dynaudio amplifier isn't plug and play with the B6 600w amplifier? Can't find anything specific other than someone saying it wasn't.

I wish you luck with mounting subwoofers under the cargo area and still having a cargo area.

Yeah, my good friend has a full wood shop right now. Original plan was a 28"x26"x5" box but since I won't need the 4 channel amplifier I should be able to get another .2'^3. The shallow 12's call for anywhere from .5-.75 with poly. Should be able to get around .65 after displacement.
 

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
I saw that the MKV Passat Amps could be swapped. Any chance we have something similar for our cars with Dynaudio? I'm assuming our Dynaudio amplifier isn't plug and play with the B6 600w amplifier? Can't find anything specific other than someone saying it wasn't.

Actually, I think the Dynaudio amplifier is the better option available for these cars. Unless you have your heart set on a full speaker swap or running fully active with your existing speakers, you'd probably be better off just leaving things as they are.

Yeah, my good friend has a full wood shop right now. Original plan was a 28"x26"x5" box but since I won't need the 4 channel amplifier I should be able to get another .2'^3. The shallow 12's call for anywhere from .5-.75 with poly. Should be able to get around .65 after displacement.

Ahh, I was thinking standard subs. When I saw Type X in the original post, the first thought to come to mind with under the floor enclosure was "good luck with that."
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Ahh, I was thinking standard subs. When I saw Type X in the original post, the first thought to come to mind with under the floor enclosure was "good luck with that."

Yeah that dream quickly faded when I actually lifted into the area, haha.

Mainly looking if there are any plug and play upgrades to the stock Dynaudio amplifier like for the MKV's.
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
I've been thinking about this build way too much the past couple days but I think I finally have everything locked down. Since I already purchased the LCQ-1 and 4 Channel Alpine.

With that being said I'm going to have a grand ole time running wires but I think it should be well worth it for all the options I'll have.



I'll be summing the front left and right channel's highs and lows with the LCQ1's summing feature. Unfortunately this only gives me a single Left and Right output but to remedy this I'll just use two RCA splitters allowing me to run identical left signals to both the front and rear and the same for the right.

The sub's connection will then come from the rear mids as documented from the UberStealth install. I think those may be tuned lower than the fronts anyway? If that's not the case I may just spare myself the trouble of running the wire back there and letting the LCQ get the signal from the front mids.

So now that I have the signals combined I'll be using JL Audio C3-650 Crossovers for the front and C5-650's for the rears. This should give me roughly the same crossover point as the factory's while allowing each set of speaker to receive a full 65w RMS at 4ohms. The crossovers also have the built in tweeter protect for tinkering :)

The big benefit to this is that I'll have total EQ control of the system through the LCQ-1 as well as retaining the stock speakers/look. Although it's not ideal to have the crossovers in the back of the car I'll be splitting all the wires close to the factory amp. Allows me for easy replugging if I ever need to go back to stock and keeps everything close for wiring.
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Here's my current plan for the sub enclosure and MDF to Mount the gear. Custom making this with my friend. Should give each of the MB RLP304's about .6^3 after displacement. Filled with Polyfill and given around 700w RMS they should really come to life!



Again, wiring is going to be frustrating but that's the part I love!
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Got with my friend who runs his own workshop today to get the custom box up and going. Ended up brainstorming a couple options with him but my original plan above stands but instead of it being an extra .4" it will be .75" from the MDF. Will be adding support on the far left side and then a hinge so that I'll still have support for my cargo area while still being able to adjust if need be.

Biggest challenge is going to be sliding the box into place. I made sure I have spare room on the sides but it could get tricky.

Once it's all sealed and I get to carpeting I'll have some more pics!

If anyone knows of a great matched passive XO I'd love to know!

 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
So, the box turned out great! The extra additions my friend made really made this thing sturdy and supportive for everything above the cargo area. I also am confident it can handle the 1400w RMS I'll have pumping into it.



Then with it wedged into place....



HOWEVER....look a little closer...





My measurements were damn near perfect MINUS factoring in the wedge of the seats as the box increased in height. I'll be heading back to my buddy's shop tomorrow in hopes that I can simply cut out another ~1" needed to make it fit securely. Also need to trim the flap slightly so that it can open while secured.

Definite oversights but I guess it's the beauty of the whole thing.
 

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
Nice setup. I would have gone with birch plywood instead of particleboard. Particleboard is about the worst kind of "sawdust" board you can use.
 

ChrisB1

Go Kart Champion
Nice setup. I would have gone with birch plywood instead of particleboard. Particleboard is about the worst kind of "sawdust" board you can use.

I've used particle board to make test enclosures just to see if something would work. Granted, I've done the same thing with birch too, lol.
 

pjd2011

Passed Driver's Ed
Nice setup. I would have gone with birch plywood instead of particleboard. Particleboard is about the worst kind of "sawdust" board you can use.

Honestly, showing my lack of carpentry knowledge here but I thought I had actually purchased MDF at my local Lowe's! I couldn't find anything labeled so I went up to the counter and asked someone for help and they told me it was MDF. Oops! :iono:

Read up on it and it looks like it shouldn't affect the sound at all. The box itself might be more fragile but the way that my buddy and I supported it - it should be fine. Hopefully seeing if we can make it fit tomorrow.
 

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
Honestly, showing my lack of carpentry knowledge here but I thought I had actually purchased MDF at my local Lowe's! I couldn't find anything labeled so I went up to the counter and asked someone for help and they told me it was MDF. Oops! :iono:

Read up on it and it looks like it shouldn't affect the sound at all. The box itself might be more fragile but the way that my buddy and I supported it - it should be fine. Hopefully seeing if we can make it fit tomorrow.

I'm referring to the cheap and poor quality of particleboard. If it comes into contact with water, it's gone. Plus, it's easier to damage it compared to other wood materials. Most LOWES do sell MDF as well as Birch plywood. I prefer Birch over MDF for several reasons: lighter weight, easier on bits (jigsaw, router, etc), less saw dust when cutting and much sturdier. It does cost a bit more than MDF but I can deal with that. Once you use Birch, you will NOT want to ever use any other "sawdust" board such as particleboard or MDF.
 
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