mikeleemk6
Go Kart Champion
So first and foremost I want to say thank you to Hyde for dealing with most of questions in order to ensure that my seats were error free.
**Disclaimer**
I am by no means in any way shape or form responsible for any damage you do to your car or any problems that arise from taking on this task. Proceed at your own risk, but I am available shall you have any questions about the install.
The install is very similar to Hydes but I don't believe he had heated seats or power recline and he can comment if otherwise because once I dove in to the install it seemed as if my passenger seat had way more wires and plugs than his. Again, he can correct me if I am wrong. On to the install:
STOCK SEATS
Step 1: You need to start by disconnecting your battery...this can help prevent the need to clear the airbag fault shall one come on but more importantly this is safety guys and gals....you don't want an airbag going off in your face while you are working on your car.
Step 2: You need to slide your seat all the way back to expose the two triple square screw holding the front of the rails and loosen, then you want to slide the seats all the way forward to repeat the same process for the two triple squares holding the rear portion of the rails to the car. This process is the same for both the driver side and passenger side. Do one at a time.
Step 3: Disconnect all electrical components from the main plugs in the floor (same on both sides). Once they have all been disconnected you are safe to remove the seats and all wiring. TIP: The easiest way I found about doing this is to tilt the seats all the way back once you have loosened all 4 seat bolts with your triple square and this will give you adequate space to remove everything.
Step 4: This step will differ from person to person as I didn't retain my stock seatbelts as I went with a roll cage and racing harness. I transferred over the seat belt buckle and zip tied it under the seat so I could still plug in the wiring harness just in case a code would be thrown, and the only other thing for the driver side is the position sensor. My driver sensor had 1012 wrote on it in white.
At this point the driver side seat is out and you should have the position sensor and the seat belt buckle loose and ready to go to the new driver side racing seat. Put both these items aside and we will revisit them when we go to prep the new racing seats.
Step 5: This step consists of the passenger seat which this is the most time consuming part of it all. You need to remove the seatbelt and wiring harness and then you want to remove everything electrical except whatever wires are running up the backside of the seats. Mine had 4 or 5 that ran up the backside of the seats which I believe Hydes only had one or two. You need to remove the white backboard that has all the plugs connected to it but still leave everything connected.
Step 6: This step for me was horrible as it was hard to get the stock interlagos cloth separated from the seat itself because of how it was secured to the actual seat. But the good thing is only a little bit of the bottom half seat cover needs to be lifted when you will expose the plastic retaining clips that hold the Passenger Occupancy sensor/bladder to the underside of the foam.
Step 7: You now need to CAREFULLY slide the whole bladder out from under the foam which it is in between the foam and the seat frame. I reiterate CAREFULLY. This can be done so don't think that it can't just be careful and take your time. If you do happen to get frustrated, take a break, have a beer, and get back to it in a little bit.
Now everything you need is out of the stock seats and you are ready to move on to the next set of steps which include transferring everything from the stock seats to the aftermarket Braum racing seats.
BRAUM RACING SEAT PREP
Step 1: Driver side is a piece of cake as all you need to transfer over is the Driver Position sensor(mine was marked with the numbers 1012) and the seatbelt buckle. You can secure this however you want as my position sensor is just sitting under the seat and the belt buckle is zip tied to the frame of the racing seats. I will link above the resistors that are needed to ensure no airbag error arise and I got the link from HYDE who was a great help. The left two terminals for the airbag connector which are closest to your pedals get the resistor. Guess what??????! Driver side is done.
Onto the passenger side. I highly suggest you taking a break and having a beer to collect your thoughts because with these seats at least the springs were so tight to the foam underneath it was really hard to get the bladder in....GO HAVE THAT BEER, NOW.
Step 2: The first time I attempted to install the bladder into the BRAUM seats, the spring were so tight I tried to just leave the bladder on the outside of the springs which this will not work. This will cause the occupancy sensor not to recognize when someone is sitting in your seat. You have to get it under the springs up against the foam of your seats. I had a beer at this point to think. The best way I found to accomplish this task was to push down on the foam of the seats which gave it ample room to slowly and CAREFULLY slide the bladder under the spring.
Step 3: With the bladder in and everything snug you want to clean up the wires and grey box that came out with bladder underneath the seat. Ensure that you have everything out of the way of the sliders so you don't pinch any wires when you slide your seats back and forth.
Step 4: Go ahead and grab another resistor for your passenger side and plug the resistor into the two terminals which are closest to rear of the car.
It may seem like only a few steps for the passenger side but this side is time consuming, so take your time.
Rails/Sliders Braum Seats
The great thing about the Braum seats is that they come with sliders and rails. I did have to purchase Planted Technology seat brackets that were custom made for our cars and they take about 2 weeks to receive as they are made to order.
Step 1: On each of the Braum Seats there are 4 gold 12mm bolts on the underside of them, which is where your rails will go. This process is super easy and is the same for both passenger and driver side seats. Remove those 4 gold bolts.
Step 2: Mount the seat rails to the Braum racing seats with the 4 12mm gold bolts you took out in step 1 and with the gold bars on the rails closest to the fronts of the seats. These bars are what the slider secures to and if you flip them and have them closest to the back, instead of pulling up on slider to move seat you will have to push it down to be able to adjust seat.
Step 3: Mount the sliders. They have precut holes and clip into the gold bars on the rails as mentioned in Step 2.
Step 4: Mount your seat brackets to the rails you just installed. The planted ones did not come with hardware, but you can purchase it for 10$.
SEATS ARE READY TO GO IN
The same way you took out your stock seats put the new seats in and lean them back so you can make all of your electrical connections. Next, you want to tilt your seats forward so that everything is lined up and your bolt holes that are on the car (stock mounting location) are lined up with your seat brackets. Re using your 4 gem bolts you took out, bolt the seats down. Once everything is tightened you may now reconnect your battery. Start your car and turn your steering wheel both ways to get all the lights on the dash to go off. Hop in the passenger seat and you should see the occupancy indicate that someone is sitting in the passenger seat therefor activating the passenger side airbag. Enjoy your new seats and have another beer. I will be posting a bunch of pics but for some reason on my dropbox I can't link the files. I will go into tapatalk and upload them from my phone.
**Disclaimer**
I am by no means in any way shape or form responsible for any damage you do to your car or any problems that arise from taking on this task. Proceed at your own risk, but I am available shall you have any questions about the install.
The install is very similar to Hydes but I don't believe he had heated seats or power recline and he can comment if otherwise because once I dove in to the install it seemed as if my passenger seat had way more wires and plugs than his. Again, he can correct me if I am wrong. On to the install:
STOCK SEATS
Step 1: You need to start by disconnecting your battery...this can help prevent the need to clear the airbag fault shall one come on but more importantly this is safety guys and gals....you don't want an airbag going off in your face while you are working on your car.
Step 2: You need to slide your seat all the way back to expose the two triple square screw holding the front of the rails and loosen, then you want to slide the seats all the way forward to repeat the same process for the two triple squares holding the rear portion of the rails to the car. This process is the same for both the driver side and passenger side. Do one at a time.
Step 3: Disconnect all electrical components from the main plugs in the floor (same on both sides). Once they have all been disconnected you are safe to remove the seats and all wiring. TIP: The easiest way I found about doing this is to tilt the seats all the way back once you have loosened all 4 seat bolts with your triple square and this will give you adequate space to remove everything.
Step 4: This step will differ from person to person as I didn't retain my stock seatbelts as I went with a roll cage and racing harness. I transferred over the seat belt buckle and zip tied it under the seat so I could still plug in the wiring harness just in case a code would be thrown, and the only other thing for the driver side is the position sensor. My driver sensor had 1012 wrote on it in white.
At this point the driver side seat is out and you should have the position sensor and the seat belt buckle loose and ready to go to the new driver side racing seat. Put both these items aside and we will revisit them when we go to prep the new racing seats.
Step 5: This step consists of the passenger seat which this is the most time consuming part of it all. You need to remove the seatbelt and wiring harness and then you want to remove everything electrical except whatever wires are running up the backside of the seats. Mine had 4 or 5 that ran up the backside of the seats which I believe Hydes only had one or two. You need to remove the white backboard that has all the plugs connected to it but still leave everything connected.
Step 6: This step for me was horrible as it was hard to get the stock interlagos cloth separated from the seat itself because of how it was secured to the actual seat. But the good thing is only a little bit of the bottom half seat cover needs to be lifted when you will expose the plastic retaining clips that hold the Passenger Occupancy sensor/bladder to the underside of the foam.
Step 7: You now need to CAREFULLY slide the whole bladder out from under the foam which it is in between the foam and the seat frame. I reiterate CAREFULLY. This can be done so don't think that it can't just be careful and take your time. If you do happen to get frustrated, take a break, have a beer, and get back to it in a little bit.
Now everything you need is out of the stock seats and you are ready to move on to the next set of steps which include transferring everything from the stock seats to the aftermarket Braum racing seats.
BRAUM RACING SEAT PREP
Step 1: Driver side is a piece of cake as all you need to transfer over is the Driver Position sensor(mine was marked with the numbers 1012) and the seatbelt buckle. You can secure this however you want as my position sensor is just sitting under the seat and the belt buckle is zip tied to the frame of the racing seats. I will link above the resistors that are needed to ensure no airbag error arise and I got the link from HYDE who was a great help. The left two terminals for the airbag connector which are closest to your pedals get the resistor. Guess what??????! Driver side is done.
Onto the passenger side. I highly suggest you taking a break and having a beer to collect your thoughts because with these seats at least the springs were so tight to the foam underneath it was really hard to get the bladder in....GO HAVE THAT BEER, NOW.
Step 2: The first time I attempted to install the bladder into the BRAUM seats, the spring were so tight I tried to just leave the bladder on the outside of the springs which this will not work. This will cause the occupancy sensor not to recognize when someone is sitting in your seat. You have to get it under the springs up against the foam of your seats. I had a beer at this point to think. The best way I found to accomplish this task was to push down on the foam of the seats which gave it ample room to slowly and CAREFULLY slide the bladder under the spring.
Step 3: With the bladder in and everything snug you want to clean up the wires and grey box that came out with bladder underneath the seat. Ensure that you have everything out of the way of the sliders so you don't pinch any wires when you slide your seats back and forth.
Step 4: Go ahead and grab another resistor for your passenger side and plug the resistor into the two terminals which are closest to rear of the car.
It may seem like only a few steps for the passenger side but this side is time consuming, so take your time.
Rails/Sliders Braum Seats
The great thing about the Braum seats is that they come with sliders and rails. I did have to purchase Planted Technology seat brackets that were custom made for our cars and they take about 2 weeks to receive as they are made to order.
Step 1: On each of the Braum Seats there are 4 gold 12mm bolts on the underside of them, which is where your rails will go. This process is super easy and is the same for both passenger and driver side seats. Remove those 4 gold bolts.
Step 2: Mount the seat rails to the Braum racing seats with the 4 12mm gold bolts you took out in step 1 and with the gold bars on the rails closest to the fronts of the seats. These bars are what the slider secures to and if you flip them and have them closest to the back, instead of pulling up on slider to move seat you will have to push it down to be able to adjust seat.
Step 3: Mount the sliders. They have precut holes and clip into the gold bars on the rails as mentioned in Step 2.
Step 4: Mount your seat brackets to the rails you just installed. The planted ones did not come with hardware, but you can purchase it for 10$.
SEATS ARE READY TO GO IN
The same way you took out your stock seats put the new seats in and lean them back so you can make all of your electrical connections. Next, you want to tilt your seats forward so that everything is lined up and your bolt holes that are on the car (stock mounting location) are lined up with your seat brackets. Re using your 4 gem bolts you took out, bolt the seats down. Once everything is tightened you may now reconnect your battery. Start your car and turn your steering wheel both ways to get all the lights on the dash to go off. Hop in the passenger seat and you should see the occupancy indicate that someone is sitting in the passenger seat therefor activating the passenger side airbag. Enjoy your new seats and have another beer. I will be posting a bunch of pics but for some reason on my dropbox I can't link the files. I will go into tapatalk and upload them from my phone.
