sterkrazzy
Autocross Champion
Buy your clutchlines from KMD.
So you didn't bother with the iabed RMS, you just got a new OEM one? Or you didn't change it at all? You kept the stock bleeder as well? Or replaced that with an OEM one?Rear main seal is a known weak point. Replacing the OEM unit with an iAbed unit is highly recommended. At the very least I would replace it with an OEM unit but the iAbed is a super high quality piece and worth the cost/peace of mind. If you are tuning I'd get the iAbed no questions since it can handle all the extra stress that is put on the engine.
The stock clutch bleeder block is plastic. It is recommended to replace it with a metal one since it's stronger and when combined with a SS clutch line will result in better clutch pedal feel. I stuck with the all the OEM stuff and am happy with it.
So you didn't bother with the iabed RMS, you just got a new OEM one? Or you didn't change it at all? You kept the stock bleeder as well? Or replaced that with an OEM one?
What makes them good? I've also had my eye on KMD's stress bars for a while.Buy your clutchlines from KMD.
What makes them good? I've also had my eye on KMD's stress bars for a while.
I had the same exact issueIf you can I would say yes return it for 2 reasons.
1.) I have one that I'll send you for cheap if you want to take a chance with it. Might have been me. Yeah I just installed a clutch but we all have those dumb moments.
2.) ECS seems like a safer option as I didn't find any instances of people having issues with them. I don't remember reading anything about people having issues with the USP one either but here we are.
I could get one side in but the other side would not fit. I could get the same side into the bleeder block securely and if I flipped the line I could get it into the swirl valve securely. I tried removing the swirl valve and going directly into the master. Tried moving the O ring as it was in a different spot on one side of the USP line. Didn't help. Maybe you gotta man handle it but after dealing with the clutch install I just chucked it in the F-it bucket and moved on.
I could get one side in but the other side would not fit. I could get the same side into the bleeder block securely and if I flipped the line I could get it into the swirl valve securely. I tried removing the swirl valve and going directly into the master. Tried moving the O ring as it was in a different spot on one side of the USP line. Didn't help. Maybe you gotta man handle it but after dealing with the clutch install I just chucked it in the F-it bucket and moved on.
Dunno what you two did, but I did a quick test fit (dry) and it totally felt like it was stuck. I didn't gorilla-arm it, but I gave it a good push and it wouldn't budge. However, after a quick dip of sil glyde, both ends properly went in like butter. The retainer clip grooves on the bleeder lined up with the corresponding groove on the line-end perfectly.I had the same exact issue
It's the clutch disk from an A4 Quattro, P/N 03G141031P. Drill bit is a 15/64.Hey guys so i wanna make sure i got everything prepared for my clutch change
-keeping stock DMFW
-TTRS disk with screws
-TTRS pressure plate with screws
-Replacing oem RMS with iabed
-3 liters tranny fluid
Am i missing anything NEEDED for the clutch job? I'll have to open the guide holes on the PP with a 5/16 drillbit correct? I got a 2013 TSI engine CBFA
Thats right thanks for the corrections, i tried to list them from off the top of my head instead actually checking. I thought the disk was from the TTRS as well. Interesting, well i ordered the sachs that is listed on the 1st page of this forum so we good.It's the clutch disk from an A4 Quattro, P/N 03G141031P. Drill bit is a 15/64.
The rest looks good.
Also, my plan was to keep the stock clutch until it goes out. However the guy at stratified said if i just drive hard with the new tune until my clutch starts slipping i risk ruining the flywheel which may need to then be resurfaced. My first time hearing that. So i guess its best to just changed the oem clutch asap and not wait until it starts slipping?
| Audi VW Clutch Disc - Sachs 03G141031P | 01 | $98.07 |
| Audi Clutch Kit - Sachs K70490-01 | 01 | $484.90 |
| Audi VW Hex Bolt Genuine Audi VW - N90847002 | 03 | $4.35 |
| Audi VW Pressure Plate Bolt - Genuine Audi VW - N90320701 | 06 | $8.58 |
| Audi VW Flywheel Bolt - Genuine VW Audi N90665001 | 08 | $16.32 |
| Manual Transmission Fluid (1 Liter) - Febi G052171A2 | 03 | $33.42 |