Build your own RSR clutch kit - Parts list

[sterkrazzy]

Buy your clutchlines from KMD.

 

[aspirollari]

Rear main seal is a known weak point. Replacing the OEM unit with an iAbed unit is highly recommended. At the very least I would replace it with an OEM unit but the iAbed is a super high quality piece and worth the cost/peace of mind. If you are tuning I'd get the iAbed no questions since it can handle all the extra stress that is put on the engine.

The stock clutch bleeder block is plastic. It is recommended to replace it with a metal one since it's stronger and when combined with a SS clutch line will result in better clutch pedal feel. I stuck with the all the OEM stuff and am happy with it.

So you didn't bother with the iabed RMS, you just got a new OEM one? Or you didn't change it at all? You kept the stock bleeder as well? Or replaced that with an OEM one?

 

[GolNat]

So you didn't bother with the iabed RMS, you just got a new OEM one? Or you didn't change it at all? You kept the stock bleeder as well? Or replaced that with an OEM one?

I replaced my RMS with an iAbed unit. My car had 50k something on it when I did the clutch.

I re-used the stock bleeder and clutch line.

 

[torga]

Buy your clutchlines from KMD.

What makes them good? I've also had my eye on KMD's stress bars for a while.

 

[sterkrazzy]

What makes them good? I've also had my eye on KMD's stress bars for a while.

I remember reading years ago people were having problems with the o-rings from other manufacturers, but KMD was using the proper o-rings so no one was having any problems. Also, if you order something from them chances are you'll probably want to give them more business. They come across as a small family business that really cares. All I've ordered from them is clutchlines, one for my mk6 and one for my mk7. In my first order was a handwritten note thanking me for my purchase, and in my 2nd purchase that was years later for my mk7 was another handwritten note thanking me again and mentioned something about my first order. It's a simple thing, but makes you feel good when you get it and makes you feel like they truly care about their customers with a passion most businesses don't have anymore.

 

[torga]

Test fit USP's clutch line and both ends fit perfectly. Stuck the bleed block on the end of the slave cylinder and that also goes in smoothly. I'll keep it, but I'm gonna source OEM o-rings.

 

[Tkwmk6]

If you can I would say yes return it for 2 reasons.

1.) I have one that I'll send you for cheap if you want to take a chance with it. Might have been me. Yeah I just installed a clutch but we all have those dumb moments.
2.) ECS seems like a safer option as I didn't find any instances of people having issues with them. I don't remember reading anything about people having issues with the USP one either but here we are.

I could get one side in but the other side would not fit. I could get the same side into the bleeder block securely and if I flipped the line I could get it into the swirl valve securely. I tried removing the swirl valve and going directly into the master. Tried moving the O ring as it was in a different spot on one side of the USP line. Didn't help. Maybe you gotta man handle it but after dealing with the clutch install I just chucked it in the F-it bucket and moved on.

I had the same exact issue

 

[torga]

I could get one side in but the other side would not fit. I could get the same side into the bleeder block securely and if I flipped the line I could get it into the swirl valve securely. I tried removing the swirl valve and going directly into the master. Tried moving the O ring as it was in a different spot on one side of the USP line. Didn't help. Maybe you gotta man handle it but after dealing with the clutch install I just chucked it in the F-it bucket and moved on.

I had the same exact issue

Dunno what you two did, but I did a quick test fit (dry) and it totally felt like it was stuck. I didn't gorilla-arm it, but I gave it a good push and it wouldn't budge. However, after a quick dip of sil glyde, both ends properly went in like butter. The retainer clip grooves on the bleeder lined up with the corresponding groove on the line-end perfectly.

I have a feeling that USP just uses Clutch Masters' hoses ends because they are practically identical, from the dual o-ring grooves to the line-end crimping. Except Clutch Masters' line comes with o-rings in both grooves. All the other clutch lines I've seen only have two o-ring grooves, one on each end.

I'm gonna be doubling up on o-rings, because why not? Ultra leak protection, like the very best adult diapers.

 

[aspirollari]

Hey guys so i wanna make sure i got everything prepared for my clutch change
-keeping stock DMFW
-TTRS disk with screws
-TTRS pressure plate with screws
-Replacing oem RMS with iabed
-3 liters tranny fluid

Am i missing anything NEEDED for the clutch job? I'll have to open the guide holes on the PP with a 5/16 drillbit correct? I got a 2013 TSI engine CBFA

 

[torga]

Hey guys so i wanna make sure i got everything prepared for my clutch change
-keeping stock DMFW
-TTRS disk with screws
-TTRS pressure plate with screws
-Replacing oem RMS with iabed
-3 liters tranny fluid

Am i missing anything NEEDED for the clutch job? I'll have to open the guide holes on the PP with a 5/16 drillbit correct? I got a 2013 TSI engine CBFA

It's the clutch disk from an A4 Quattro, P/N 03G141031P. Drill bit is a 15/64.

The rest looks good.

 

[aspirollari]

It's the clutch disk from an A4 Quattro, P/N 03G141031P. Drill bit is a 15/64.

The rest looks good.

Thats right thanks for the corrections, i tried to list them from off the top of my head instead actually checking. I thought the disk was from the TTRS as well. Interesting, well i ordered the sachs that is listed on the 1st page of this forum so we good.

 

[aspirollari]

Also, my plan was to keep the stock clutch until it goes out. However the guy at stratified said if i just drive hard with the new tune until my clutch starts slipping i risk ruining the flywheel which may need to then be resurfaced. My first time hearing that. So i guess its best to just changed the oem clutch asap and not wait until it starts slipping?

 

[GolNat]

Also, my plan was to keep the stock clutch until it goes out. However the guy at stratified said if i just drive hard with the new tune until my clutch starts slipping i risk ruining the flywheel which may need to then be resurfaced. My first time hearing that. So i guess its best to just changed the oem clutch asap and not wait until it starts slipping?

If you are planning on reusing the flywheel then yes change it before it slips. If not you can let it slip. I did for a few 1k miles but I was replacing everything.

 

[aspirollari]

RSR clutch update:

Whats up fellas, got my clutch installed a few weeks back. Put about 500 miles on since and I am very pleased to say the least. The first few days the pedal was super stiff and engaged instantly. Almost stalled my car a couple times lol. Now the pedal feels almost stock. Not gonna like I liked the feel of it better when it was really stiff. Can't complain either way. It has no issues holding the power whatever and the car can finally be driven like it was meant to be.

 

[dman928]

So, I just ordered the parts I think I need. I'm pretty sure the flywheel is only 10K miles old, as it was replaced by previous owner. Clutch is relatively new, but I've gone stage 2, and am getting slipping in higher gears. Am I missing anything?

	Audi VW Clutch Disc - Sachs 03G141031P​	01​	$98.07​
	Audi Clutch Kit - Sachs K70490-01​	01​	$484.90​
	Audi VW Hex Bolt Genuine Audi VW - N90847002​	03​	$4.35​
	Audi VW Pressure Plate Bolt - Genuine Audi VW - N90320701​	06​	$8.58​
	Audi VW Flywheel Bolt - Genuine VW Audi N90665001​	08​	$16.32​
	Manual Transmission Fluid (1 Liter) - Febi G052171A2​	03​	$33.42​

LUK Throw Out Bearing $55