Recent content by Fast-R

I had the exact same issue. There are 3 wires at the connector of the LED DRL. Jump the outside wires to each other and your problem will be solved.

You must be thinking about aluminum flywheels, this South Bend one I'm referring to uses a steel flywheel and I doubt it's half the weight. I'd be highly surprised if the OEM flywheel is 38lbs by itself.. I don't have to rev the engine any extra to engage first gear with this setup. If there is...

I believe OEM is around the same weight.. I think only aluminum flywheels make a huge difference in weight but they tend to be way louder and you'd have to rev it up a fair amount more on each take off.. I've had many aluminum flywheels in the past and the only good thing is the free-er revving...

Yes, that's the one. It looks and sounds so aggressive in the description but in actuality it is very easy to drive and you would be surprised that it's a stage 4 racing clutch by the way it feels.. Break in wasn't bad either, and once broken in, it's quite tame.. I daily both cars that have...

Having 3" from the turbo all the way back is best, but if only one could be had, the 3" down pipe is way more beneficial in terms of power than just a cat back...

oil pan could have had a rock hit and puncture it requiring replacement.. 2 psi is a minor variation and could be from many things, probably nothing to worry about.. Boost leak test is always a good one to ensure everything is all sealed up nice. Not sure of what normal compression numbers...

I use the DXD (southbend) stage 4 clutch and flywheel combo on my R and my big turbo Audi TT and I recommend it for sure.. It behaves pretty close to stock and holds whatever you throw at it. They last a long time too.. Even if I was only stage 1 or 2, I would 100% get this clutch, it's a bit...

This is why I recommended the clutch combo I'm using on two platforms.. I' know I have more power and torque, but I've used the clutchmasters FX400 and a bunch of other stage 2/3 clutches over the years and the DXD is the first clutch I've had that can take the power, last a ling time and not...

I don't know much about the ECS clutches, but if it is slipping within 10,000 miles, that means the clutch was not heavy duty enough for your set-up. That's assuming you're not constantly riding the clutch or doing 5k launches all the time... I know it sucks, but you'll need to try a more...

I specifically chose to run OEM sized rotors with the TT-RS calipers because of the known issues with the crap OEM TT-RS rotors. It's only a matter of time before they need pre-mature replacement.. You can change to virtually any rotors you want to as long as you have the correct caliper...