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-3.0* camber too much for daily?

GolfRRRR1

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
Hi all,
Currently my Golf R suspension mods include: H&R rear sway bar (highly recommended) and CSS knuckles (Very highly recommend), stock DCC shocks, 245/40/18 tires, car has 36k miles.
My current alignment specs are below.
So I'm stuck between getting either Eibach Pro-Kit springs (about 1" drop) or the EuroSport Tuning pucks which would add .8* camber putting me around -2.8* to -3.0* or doing both for my mostly daily driver. Right now I feel it's really good, but the jump from stock to the CCS knuckles made a huge difference especially paired with the H&R rear sway.
My reservation is going over -2.5* camber which is traditionally my 'street' car limit, but I've never had a McPherson strut set-up on such a small wheelbase car before. When I added the H&R rear sway I thought for sure this thing is gonna go around on the race track, it wasn't even close, it was rock solid the whole time. Am I just overthinking it?
IMG_7971.jpeg
 

Will_

Autocross Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
I don’t think you’ll gain any performance going to 3 unless you are running 100tw or slicks on the track. Most 200tw tires are optimized for about 2.5 degrees camber. I run 2.5f and 2.0r and at my last track day I had a little more inside wear than out, indicating less camber would of been ideal, although it was a fairly low grip surface. On most tracks I find 2.5 perfect in terms of balancing tire wear.
 

GolfRRRR1

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
I don’t think you’ll gain any performance going to 3 unless you are running 100tw or slicks on the track. Most 200tw tires are optimized for about 2.5 degrees camber. I run 2.5f and 2.0r and at my last track day I had a little more inside wear than out, indicating less camber would of been ideal, although it was a fairly low grip surface. On most tracks I find 2.5 perfect in terms of balancing tire wear.
Yes, I had excellent wear on my Michelin PS4S tires from my first track event in this car. I want to make a performance step each spring hence the suspension mods mentioned above. Realistically I'll take it to 2 lapping events this year, so new brake pads and something else, LOL. Everything is all new for me, my last car was a Pontiac G8, and many Acuras and Hondas before that.
 

bfury5

Autocross Champion
Location
CT
I ran -3.2 all last year and didn't have any issues on the street. Having 0-toe in the helps keep it from wearing too bad. I was on General G-MAX RS as my daily tires and after ~8k miles you wouldn't have been able to tell I was running that much camber. On something stickier you might see more wear on the inside edge, but that's pretty dependent on the tire / road surface. If you're not doing anything competitive, I'd say 2.5deg as mentioned above is a nice sweet spot for daily / weekend fun driving.
 
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odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
not sure I understand exactly what you're asking (tire wear? performance on the street?) but since I'm daily near -3 front I'll comment.

I run almost -3 street and almost -5 autox, no lsd. Street I run all season symmetrical so I can flip. Autox I run directional so I can flip. I'm on 15s so tire cost is not oppressive. Street wear is manageable as long as I'm diligent about toe. Make a mistake with toe and I pay (it has happened). Otherwise, with flipping I'm shooting for 30k miles on all seasons.

Reason for -3 street is ttrs arms. Adjusting ball joints back and forth is less exact than moving camber plates to their limit. Not to mention adjusting tie rods for toe and checking afterwards. Arms would let me min at near -2.5 but I figure go ahead and leave things fully adjusted and suffer the marginal increase in wear.

At autox, car definitely is faster with more camber than -3 so I run vorshlag plates fully adjusted. I can reliably set toe with a specific number of hex turns on the tie rods in response to plate adjustment.

This level of camber may not be beneficial at the track, idk because I don't track.
 

GolfRRRR1

Go Kart Champion
Location
Michigan
not sure I understand exactly what you're asking (tire wear? performance on the street?) but since I'm daily near -3 front I'll comment.
My question is, cliff note version:
My car is basically daily driver, 1-2 track events a year. Currently -2.1* camber. Traditionally I go a max of -2.5* camber. For my spring mods do I go with Eibach Prokit springs...which should gain -.2*(?) or so, or get EuroSport pucks which will add -.8* camber. Or do I just stay at -2.1* and move on to something else?
 

scrapin240

Drag Racing Champion
Location
IzzaGolf
Car(s)
Golf
I don’t think you’ll gain any performance going to 3 unless you are running 100tw or slicks on the track. Most 200tw tires are optimized for about 2.5 degrees camber. I run 2.5f and 2.0r and at my last track day I had a little more inside wear than out, indicating less camber would of been ideal, although it was a fairly low grip surface. On most tracks I find 2.5 perfect in terms of balancing tire wear.
i have about -2.4 on my R Front, and the outsides are wearing fast with my RE-71R, -3 would be ideal for me.
 

burgerkong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Ontario, Canadeh
not sure I understand exactly what you're asking (tire wear? performance on the street?) but since I'm daily near -3 front I'll comment.

I run almost -3 street and almost -5 autox, no lsd. Street I run all season symmetrical so I can flip. Autox I run directional so I can flip. I'm on 15s so tire cost is not oppressive. Street wear is manageable as long as I'm diligent about toe. Make a mistake with toe and I pay (it has happened). Otherwise, with flipping I'm shooting for 30k miles on all seasons.

Reason for -3 street is ttrs arms. Adjusting ball joints back and forth is less exact than moving camber plates to their limit. Not to mention adjusting tie rods for toe and checking afterwards. Arms would let me min at near -2.5 but I figure go ahead and leave things fully adjusted and suffer the marginal increase in wear.

At autox, car definitely is faster with more camber than -3 so I run vorshlag plates fully adjusted. I can reliably set toe with a specific number of hex turns on the tie rods in response to plate adjustment.

This level of camber may not be beneficial at the track, idk because I don't track.

You're still using the TTS/TTRS control arms right? OEM balljoints? How much space do you have between the top of the ball joint flange and the CV boot? I just got my TTS/TTRS arms along with some BJ, but they didn't include the retaining plate with the 3 studs welded in, and I was thinking of substituting with regular bolt/washer but then I remembered it was pretty tight and I may run into clearance issues. Can you shoot a pic by any chance?
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
I'll take a pic this weekend. Fyi the arms I purchased from a wreck thru ebay had an oe part included, #4 in the diagram. When inserted above the ball joint, it sits pretty flush.
 

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odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
You're still using the TTS/TTRS control arms right? OEM balljoints? How much space do you have between the top of the ball joint flange and the CV boot? I just got my TTS/TTRS arms along with some BJ, but they didn't include the retaining plate with the 3 studs welded in, and I was thinking of substituting with regular bolt/washer but then I remembered it was pretty tight and I may run into clearance issues. Can you shoot a pic by any chance?
this is driver's side, suspension loaded, wheels pointed straight. Looks like plenty of room for cv boot.

Note this is.a golf golf spindle, but I don't think GTI spindle is shorter or taller.

Makes me want to try out flipping the part (above) to give more clearance for the.wheel.
 

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burgerkong

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Ontario, Canadeh
this is driver's side, suspension loaded, wheels pointed straight. Looks like plenty of room for cv boot.

Note this is.a golf golf spindle, but I don't think GTI spindle is shorter or taller.

Makes me want to try out flipping the part (above) to give more clearance for the.wheel.

Perfect, thanks for the photos. I guess I was tripping balls haha, I'll just use nuts and bolts then!
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
Perfect, thanks for the photos. I guess I was tripping balls haha, I'll just use nuts and bolts then!
and or create a shim to trade static camber for dynamic...
 
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