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Rode out to Fastivus at Summit Point this weekend. Took the opportunity to hit Skyline Drive for the first time in a while.

The screeching is likely an exhaust leak between the turbo manifold and the head. Mine made a similar screech sound under load and it turned out to be a blown gasket.

One option is to mount the cooler in the fog light housing location, and then open up some vents in the wheel well liner to allow airflow. I have a mk5 R32 aux radiator in the driver side and an oil cooler on the passenger side.

I had GC camber plates paired with SuperPro RCA ball joints and had full ability to adjust camber. For daily street use I found the camber plates pretty harsh, especially sudden impacts and road transitions. I eventually removed them and now I’m just running the SuperPro ball joints. They still...

Car is still chugging along, it mainly serves as daily duties these days. Did make another trip to Tail of the Dragon for Wookies this year. Since I’m not tracking the car anymore I decided to remove the Ground Control camber plates over the winter, and replaced them with new strut mounts /...

Yes, replace it. It’ll either need to be drilled out and tapped for a Helicoil or a nut drilled on the end (which I haven’t had much luck doing).

Did you originally check clearances when building the engine? For higher HP builds I like setting them up slightly loose, but it’s a trade-off with slightly lower oil pressure. I would absolutely not trust those rods given the brand.

Selling a set of Ground Control camber plates in excellent condition, only used for a few thousand miles. The spring mounts are for stock diameter and aftermarket lowering springs (Racingline, H&R, Eibach, etc). $300 + shipping Thanks.

Jesus this thread took a turn for the worst. iAbed seal here and installed several, granted I'm not a DIY'er, I'm a former machinist / engine builder. Double lip spring-loaded seals have been used in radial shaft applications for the last half-century. Before that we installed 2-pc rope seals. 😉

Made the 8hr drive down to Tail of the Dragon this week and had an absolute blast. Put 1500 miles on the car over the course of the trip and it never missed a beat. 🚗 💨 🐉

Not to ask the obvious here but you did remove the water pump drive pulley right?

Figured after 10 years it was time for a front end refresh. Osram Xenarcs, eBay fog light grills, deAutoLED switchback fog lights, and a euro switch w/trigger wire to enable parking lights. So far no light out indicators, and I’m still fine tuning the height adjustment. Overall the cut off...

No rubbing now but I had to get creative in the rear to clear, as well as running -2.5 camber. I’m running 255/40r17s and I can’t say I would recommend it. Widest I would go is 245/40r17, which is about perfect.

I'm running Superpro balljoints with a Stoptech ST40 328x28mm bbk and mine clear. I believe if you're running aftermarket control arms there will be a clearance issue. The balljoints combined with Ground Control camber plates allow me to have -3.0 camber up front for a proper track alignment.

I ran a Setrab 19 row, you can buy on Amazon here. I paired it with a Mocal thermostatic oil filter sandwich plate and -10AN braided lines. Another option is the iAbed oil cooler adapter plate, which replaces the factory oil cooler and I think is a cleaner install. It also doesn’t require you to...

If you're getting 40psi at hot 2k rpm, then I'm not sure why you'd be experiencing low oil pressure at idle. The oil pump is a two stage setup, with the second stage engaging around 1500 rpm. So if below that you're experiencing low oil pressure, but above that you arent, then that tells me you...

I’ve ran the RSR clutch setup for years at k04 power levels, including track use. It’s a great compromise of performance and low noise levels. You can save some money by piecing the kit together yourself. Our family has an older (2012) Subaru Forester and my mk6 GTI. A couple years ago I added...

These are the oil pressure specs full operating temp at the oil filter housing. Unless you have some sort of blockage in the oil passage to the turbo, I can’t imagine their would be an oil flow issue.

The best way to confirm the boost difference thing is to take a log and compare with a previous log. Engine load has a significant impact on actual boost, so it’s worth logging. It may be worth sending a WOT log to your tuner to make sure nothing needs to be changed along with the new turbo...

Any update on a replacement?