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Alternator Replacement DIY ?

brettmag

New member
I also need to replace my alternator in my 2013 GTI with only 63,000 km. Will let you know what I find tonight.
 

brettmag

New member
I did a quick search and could only find one for the 2.5L.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163506

I see we have an intake manifold removal diy at least:
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20966


This doesn't seem like an amateur job. Are there any alternative methods?
Hi, I did the job in 2-3 hours with almost no mechanical ability. Way better than paying the dealershit $1400-1700 CDN as they quoted me. My friend at a shop was able to download some work instructions, but they proved to be useless. Don't need to touch the air conditioning compressor as they say.

Here's a quick summary of the steps:

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Use a ratchet to move the serpentine belt tensioner enough to move the belt off the pulleys. Move the belt out of the way. Don't have to completely take it off
.
Loosen and remove the 4 bolts on alternator. Two on top and one on bottom.

Alternator should move around now. Move enough to disconnect the plug and remove the nut to remove the second cable. It's tight and takes some time to remove the nut.

The hard part: removing the alternator through the top. There are some plastic hoses near the top of the engine that you can remove the one torx screw to give you a bit of room. Also, near the bottom of the alternator close to the headlight there are some metal cooling pipes (I'm assuming), you can remove the black cap on the one to give you a bit more room too. Now gradually wiggle it out. Took some time cause I didn't want to break anything.

Now reverse the steps with the new alternator! I bought one that was remanufactured but looks exactly like new. It was $280 CDN.

Let me know if you have questions. Good luck!
 

torga

Go Kart Champion
I'm about to have it. Any tips that might save me some time?
Get a 13mm ratcheting wrench for the lower-right alternator bolt. That thing was a bitch and a half. You have to snake your arm from the bottom, past the rad fans and A/C compressor to get to it. You will hate your entire life if you do it with a regular wrench. Socket/ratchet won't fit, even a low-profile one won't.

That's the only hiccup; the rest of the job is stupid easy. The other three bolts are very accessible and the accessory belt is one of the easiest to deal with of any car I've worked on.
 

MavWreck

New member
Get a 13mm ratcheting wrench for the lower-right alternator bolt. That thing was a bitch and a half. You have to snake your arm from the bottom, past the rad fans and A/C compressor to get to it. You will hate your entire life if you do it with a regular wrench. Socket/ratchet won't fit, even a low-profile one won't.

That's the only hiccup; the rest of the job is stupid easy. The other three bolts are very accessible and the accessory belt is one of the easiest to deal with of any car I've worked on.

Thanks, did you take the wheel and inner well off or just the scrape pan?
 

torga

Go Kart Champion
Just the scrape pan. All I had to do was jack it up slightly so I could fit underneath.
 

Allchokedup

Ready to race!
I just did stockgti's and didnt have to pull anything except the alternator. It SOOOOO much easier when you have ratchet wrenches that fold at the head.
Just move a few hoses..unhook battery first, takes about an hour total
 

torga

Go Kart Champion
I just did stockgti's and didnt have to pull anything except the alternator. It SOOOOO much easier when you have ratchet wrenches that fold at the head.
Just move a few hoses..unhook battery first, takes about an hour total
I think the official method involves removing the A/C compressor? Screw that. I just had to move a couple hoses, take off an AC line cap and be very careful around the oil sensor plug. But like I mentioned, that lower-right bolt is a bitch. ratchet wrench, minimum, is necessary for this job; a flex-head ratchet wrench would be the ultimate tool for that bolt.
 

MavWreck

New member
This job has gone all kinds of sideways. The biggest issue is that the alternator is placed differently from all the pictures and videos I've seen. The bolts run parallel to the axle, not perpendicular. There's also no way to get to the bolts without removing the pulleys and some of the pulley assemblies. Not even with the wrenches. Also, I don't see anyway to get it out the top so now I've got the condenser off and I'm waiting for Amazon to deliver a set of triple square sockets because none mine fit.
 

torga

Go Kart Champion
This job has gone all kinds of sideways. The biggest issue is that the alternator is placed differently from all the pictures and videos I've seen. The bolts run parallel to the axle, not perpendicular. There's also no way to get to the bolts without removing the pulleys and some of the pulley assemblies. Not even with the wrenches. Also, I don't see anyway to get it out the top so now I've got the condenser off and I'm waiting for Amazon to deliver a set of triple square sockets because none mine fit.
Oh, I did not realize you had a 2.5L! All my tips and perspective came from a 2.0T - I've got no idea how the 2.5L alternator is bolted up.
 

MavWreck

New member
Oh, I did not realize you had a 2.5L! All my tips and perspective came from a 2.0T - I've got no idea how the 2.5L alternator is bolted up.

It's an utter nightmare geometrically. I'll get it done, but it's way more time consuming than I wanted. I should try and get some photos to post up as I put it back together.
 

MavWreck

New member
Got it swapped out and it tests as okay, but the battery isn't holding a charge. I had it checked before I swapped the alternator and they said it was good, but somethings not right. Any ideas of something I may have gotten wrong that could be sucking the charge or is it most likely just the battery?


edit: definitely not the battery. I charged it and disconnected it and it held the charge.
 
Last edited:

gijoewoz

Ready to race!
Got it swapped out and it tests as okay, but the battery isn't holding a charge. I had it checked before I swapped the alternator and they said it was good, but somethings not right. Any ideas of something I may have gotten wrong that could be sucking the charge or is it most likely just the battery?


edit: definitely not the battery. I charged it and disconnected it and it held the charge.
Did it hold a charge with a load on it? Just because you charged it up to 12.6v and put a multi meter to it doesn't mean it won't drop like a rock as soon as it tries to turn the starter. Put a meter on a fully charged battery and have someone try to start the car, note how low the voltage drops. Get the car running and test the voltage at the battery with the engine running, rev it as well and watch to see how the voltage changes.
 

MavWreck

New member
Did it hold a charge with a load on it? Just because you charged it up to 12.6v and put a multi meter to it doesn't mean it won't drop like a rock as soon as it tries to turn the starter. Put a meter on a fully charged battery and have someone try to start the car, note how low the voltage drops. Get the car running and test the voltage at the battery with the engine running, rev it as well and watch to see how the voltage changes.
Drops to 2.0 when cranking. I tried leaving it on the charger and it just doesn't want to take a charge. I managed to jump it and take it to Autozone. I had them check the alternator, but they couldn't test the battery because it was totally flat. The alternator was putting out 14-14.5 volts, but showed as having failed diodes just like the one I replaced. I had Autozone charge the battery and then test it. It tested as bad.



So now I have a new battery, but I'm wondering if the battery caused the alternator problem or the other way around. I may just take it to a shop and have them have a look.
 
Last edited:

gijoewoz

Ready to race!
Drops to 2.0 when cranking. I tried leaving it on the charger and it just doesn't want to take a charge. I managed to jump it and take it to Autozone. I had them check the alternator, but they couldn't test the battery because it was totally flat. The alternator was putting out 14-14.5 volts, but showed as having failed diodes just like the one I replaced. I had Autozone charge the battery and then test it. It tested as bad.



So now I have a new battery, but I'm wondering if the battery caused the alternator problem or the other way around. I may just take it to a shop and have them have a look.
A dying battery will work the alternator a bit harder, and a bad alternator won't be able to keep a battery fully charged. Either one can be responsible for the other failing prematurely. As someone who has spent a lot of time in the mobile audio world, I would highly recommend buying a brand new alternator (not a refurb, which is primarily what you'll find at places like Autozone). I went through 5-6 Autozone alternators before switching to a brand new Bosch alternator in my Subaru. I never had an issue with the Bosch. A good battery is important too. Keep in mind that every time your batter drops too low, damage is being done, and you are shortening it's lifespan.
 
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