Big Chungus Mk6

[jay745]

Naw, clean off the rust on the inside of the spindle with a wire wheel before putting the new one in though

 

[aspro_gti]

Did that... so raw dog the axle

 

[aspro_gti]

Axles are tightened to spec - rotor still rubs on the caliper's pad guide rods. Exactly the same as before.
I'm tired.
I'll just have to grind down the rods 1.5mm or so. Unless I find out that monoblock calipers don't self center (the pistons don't make up for the slightly different distance between piston to rotor), in which case I'll have to take them to my local machinist to level the mounting tabs on the caliper ~1.5/1.75mm shallower.

 

[aspro_gti]

Bruh, I typed out a massive essay and accidentally refreshed the page, now its gone... wtf

 

[aspro_gti]

What I had written out was that I got the calipers back from the machine shop today.
I had decided to machine the mounting tabs so that the rotor is centered against the pistons. One mm off one side and half a mm off the other side and they now sit perfect.
I made a mock up and tried to mount my wheel to figure out what spacers I'm going to need. I then had a bitch of a time because I don't have a set screw on the rotor, and with no stud kit, I was pushing the rotor with one hand and holding the wheel with the other. I then run into the caliper and can't get a good measurement.
So I took everything off and threw on the stud kit hand tight (with the right allen key) to help mounting everything up. Then I saw that the rotor wouldn't sit flush against the hub as it was running into the small lip on the studs (these help the stud bottom out properly). I was able to get a measurement on the spacers I'll need (15mm should be enough), but now I'm stressing out because the rotor isn't nice and flush with the hub (approx 2mm pushed outward).
@manu97 is this intended by design? Anyone else run into this issue before?
Worst case scenario I raw dog it with spacers and it becomes a two man job (one man holds the rotor against wheel while other holds wheel up (with spacer and hub centering ring lol) and threads in the bolt (of which I don't have deep enough bolts, so wtf)
I'm genuinely getting stressed out, for the first time in this whole install. I'm panicking and freaking out.

 

[aspro_gti]

Is the stud supposed to be on the outside of the rotor? Am I retarded?
Edit: I most definitely am lol. All that panic for nothing.

 

[riceburner]

IN4PICS OF YOUR ALLEGED RECARO SEATS

 

[aspro_gti]

IN4PICS OF YOUR ALLEGED RECARO SEATS

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6eP..._web_button_share_sheet&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

 

[supreme_gti]

DAMN those are some sexy seats woooooo!

I would type it out as a rough draft in MS Word and THEN copy paste here, so it's saved

 

[aspro_gti]

So the brakes are all good now, just need to bleed them and the clutch. Very time consuming.
On another note, the dual rear caliper setup (r32 caliper is the handbrake and brembo does the foot pedal braking) isn't engaging the handbrake properly.
The way you do it is by pumping the handbrake a zillion times to get the piston to move toward the pads and find that "home" position, but I backed in the piston so far that it's not catching on the worm gear when I activate the cable handbrake. I've gotta take it off and squeeze the spring manually by hand (which will have more range of motion... the slop in the cables because of their age is causing the cable not to pull on the piston fully) and hope that this makes the piston catch on the worm gear.
It's annoying because I have to undo the bolts that hold the caliper to the sliding rods on the pad carrier. I tightened the crap out of them yesterday because there was still space that the threads weren't going into and was getting nervous with how much force was required to tighten those suckas.

 

[jay745]

So the brakes are all good now, just need to bleed them and the clutch. Very time consuming.
On another note, the dual rear caliper setup (r32 caliper is the handbrake and brembo does the foot pedal braking) isn't engaging the handbrake properly.
The way you do it is by pumping the handbrake a zillion times to get the piston to move toward the pads and find that "home" position, but I backed in the piston so far that it's not catching on the worm gear when I activate the cable handbrake. I've gotta take it off and squeeze the spring manually by hand (which will have more range of motion... the slop in the cables because of their age is causing the cable not to pull on the piston fully) and hope that this makes the piston catch on the worm gear.
It's annoying because I have to undo the bolts that hold the caliper to the sliding rods on the pad carrier. I tightened the crap out of them yesterday because there was still space that the threads weren't going into and was getting nervous with how much force was required to tighten those suckas.

It's easy to adjust the slack in the line by taking tightening the line inside the car on the rear of your center console. It's easily accessible if you remove the center console. I cut a hole in mine because the console is coming out eventually and ain't nobody got time fo dat

 

[manu97]

Is the stud supposed to be on the outside of the rotor? Am I retarded?
Edit: I most definitely am lol. All that panic for nothing.

Glad to hear that you resolved. Can't visualize what was happening personally, but if you fixed it, then good to go

 

[aspro_gti]

I was putting the studs on the hub and then the rotor on top... instead of rotor on hub and then stud goes in

 

[aspro_gti]

@jay745 How tight should this be? Is it supposed to be threaded all the way in to make the nut (the 15mm one that's part of the sliding pin that you grease) come all the way to the edge to hit the caliper tab?
There's still more threads that could be threaded, but I feel like I'm using a lot of force... in the videos, the mechanics don't use much force, but it seems loose... it doesn't help that the bolts are kinda old.

 

[jay745]

Not much, you might have to get a wrench on the inside nut to stop it from spinning.