GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Big Chungus Mk6

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Not much, you might have to get a wrench on the inside nut to stop it from spinning.
I've been doing that, but am I supposed to leave some threads unthreaded? I'm a quite strong dude, and I feel like I'm putting too much force into the bolt to get it threaded in near the end. Also, one video used loctite - necessary?
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Tap the brake pedal and it'll probably tighten up the slack you're seeing. I've never used loctite on those
Thing is, pedal won't be connected to that hog anymore... it's now serving as a parking brake only, so cable only.
I'll just crank the handbrake a few times, pump it and have that take up the slack
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
So I just undid the center console and tightened up the parking brake cable nut a few times... nothing still. Probably needs more tightening but I'm saving it for tomorrow when my Dad can help me figure out if the pistons are moving in/out, or if the cables need more adjustment etc.


For those who want to understand a bit better, with the dual rear caliper setup now, the parking brake is operated by what used to be the old brake caliper (albeit this one from a mk5 r32 to fit the larger rotors). I had used the piston retracting tool to get the piston back into the caliper, and then before throwing it onto the pad carrier, I made sure to have the gap between piston and other side be as close to the gap between pads as possible (that way they're tight and not super loose where I have to then worry about the piston being too far in where it's not catching on the worm gear drive thing). Then you're supposed to get into the car, and crank on the handbrake (with button held down the whole time) a good 30-50 times until the piston hits the pads and finds that "home position" I'll call it. Well, I cranked it 70ish times and nothing, so something isn't moving. The rear portion of the cable where it connects to the caliper is just fine (could use a lil grease or lube or whatever), but it sits nicely. Ideally it compresses that spring and pushes the piston out. Well I know for a fact that the piston does come out when you crank that soulja boy on the spring, which means that likely the bing bing bing bong (the cables) need to have more slack taken up so that they can have more range of motion to crank that soulja boy.

Bar bar bar, its 11pm, I'm tired and ramblin (see the spasm I had above when trying to type cables)
1717643942344.png

The word barbarian comes from the Romans and Greeks who would mock foreign people who couldn't speak their language by calling them barbarians, which is derived from "bar bar bar" which is how the foreign languages sounded to them. There's even a verb in greek, Βαρβαρίζω, which means "to barbarize" but translates to "to ramble/to speak gibberish"
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Bruhhhh...
So the konig hexaforms that I have (new set of wheels) didn't clear the 17z in the front, and when I tried on the rear, they didn't clear that either... WTF
So then I tried the Motegi MR146 that I have had for 3 years now, and those cleared the rear and they cleared the FRONT TOO!! NO spacer, no extended lug bolts required.
Great fucking news... As for the konigs, idk what to do about them??!!?!? Sell them?!?!
I'm supposed to have already left for ATX (moving down there), and idk if I'm going to be able to haul the wheels down there to get them to work eventually with spacers and with BS lol.
I got the handbrake working as intended.

I'm tired man...
But here's all that's left:
Slot in pads
Bleed brakes
DRIVE!
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Brakes got bled last night. I have to threadlock in the stud kit, bleed the brakes again (pedal style this time), bleed the clutch, button up the intake and other crap, and then take it out for a spin.
Man is it easy to throw in the pads on the monoblock calipers!
Shoutout to @jay745 for the tips n tricks
Still devastated that the konig wheels don't fit. I guess I gotta sell em...
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Brakes got bled last night. I have to threadlock in the stud kit, bleed the brakes again (pedal style this time), bleed the clutch, button up the intake and other crap, and then take it out for a spin.
Man is it easy to throw in the pads on the monoblock calipers!
Shoutout to @jay745 for the tips n tricks
Still devastated that the konig wheels don't fit. I guess I gotta sell em...
Make sure you leave enough time for the studs to cure before you leave
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Brakes bled again, clutch bled.
Studs are on and waiting for them to cure... blue threadlocker, which is supposed to stay for 24 hours to cure... not sure if I should take the car for a spin this evening or tomorrow morning (which will be 24 hrs then).
I'm going to put the rear seats in and try to throw on the roof rack.
Start packing my shit for the move.
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Intake on, ready to drive... going to put the wheels on the new stud kit which has sat for 24 hrs so the loctite can cure.
The freaking nuts are basically bumping into the edge of the wheel when I tighten them down... the Motegis have a thin bore for the lugs...
So anyways, I tighten down in a star pattern to make sure everything goes in at the same rate. And of course the last nut I torque down doesn't hit the torque spec (doesn't beeeeep) yet it has tightened down further than the rest (I can see it with my eye, at least a full turn more)... its at 71/90lbft of tq still... what the fuck?!
@manu97 you ever had this happen?
I'm so stressed out... this should have been the easiest step and yet it's giving me the hardest freaking time.
I'm not sure if there's crud that's making the other lugs hit the torque spec sooner than this last one and that they aren't fully torqued in...
It's hard to tell because the wheel is on and has no shake to it at all.
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Drove to Boston and picked up lug nuts that fit...
Sure enough it worked...

Finally drove the car for the first time in nearly a month... Handbrake needs adjusting (still loose), but the pedal brakes are fucking FIRE!
The pedal has great modulation and you can feel the power in the braking system... no sponginess...
Took it to a grass field and locked up the brakes a few times to get the ABS pump working (I didn't hear anything, so hoping that it did the trick)...
A bunch of lights on the dash... (ABS) (Steering wheel) (Traction control) (TPMS)
If I had to guess, I may have forgotten to plug in a wheel speed sensor or something...

The car is back in the garage now and I'm going to do the following:
Check the electrical plugs to see if I missed one
Top off reservoir
Bleed the brakes again to make sure no air
Garage alignment because of taking off the control arm
Check for leaks
Check the shitty MAF sensor jury rigging thing I did because I broke the clip (I ziptied it down)
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
So I forgot a wheel speed sensor lol... plugged it in... lights should go away...
Bled again, not a single bubble...
Garage alignment with strings... within 0.02mm each side, kinda got lucky lol... I'm about to take it on the highway to get some gas and see the steering wheel how straight or how gay it is...
 

aspro_gti

Autocross Champion
Dead straight on the highway...
Car still rips... all lights are off the dash now...
It's ready. I'm going to put some more miles on it before driving down on Tuesday.
LTFT is down to 1.07 which is nice... it's not as bad as it was before (1.17)
I'm going to get a new air intake filter cuz the old one doesn't make a nice seal.
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Dead straight on the highway...
Car still rips... all lights are off the dash now...
It's ready. I'm going to put some more miles on it before driving down on Tuesday.
LTFT is down to 1.07 which is nice... it's not as bad as it was before (1.17)
I'm going to get a new air intake filter cuz the old one doesn't make a nice seal.
Double check that the studs aren’t moving at all
 
Top