Big Turbo Discussion Thread

[Sspcivic31]

Is the hpfp actual labeled "fuel pressure" in vag com?


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I think its fuel rail pressure. group 106 maybe

there is no lpfp pressure sensor on the tsi cars. you have to plumb an external gauge in to monitor. i put a t fitting on the inlet to the HPFP and measured it there with my digital fuel pressure gauge.

after i replaced the lpfp control module the car would make like 4.5+ bar at wot under load. the inj pulse width and the hpfp all looked good afterwards. the ecu can lower the HPFP request for sure to save the motor. i would see the specified only looking for 120 bar and actual within about 5 bar of the specified while this was going on. you could feel it on the top end. was like the car was surging a bit. almost like the sensation of being pushed into the seat on hard acceleration. after the controller it went back to 150+bar and all was well.

 

[james9120]

I think its fuel rail pressure. group 106 maybe



there is no lpfp pressure sensor on the tsi cars. you have to plumb an external gauge in to monitor. i put a t fitting on the inlet to the HPFP and measured it there with my digital fuel pressure gauge.



after i replaced the lpfp control module the car would make like 4.5+ bar at wot under load. the inj pulse width and the hpfp all looked good afterwards. the ecu can lower the HPFP request for sure to save the motor. i would see the specified only looking for 120 bar and actual within about 5 bar of the specified while this was going on. you could feel it on the top end. was like the car was surging a bit. almost like the sensation of being pushed into the seat on hard acceleration. after the controller it went back to 150+bar and all was well.

Ya I know whatcha mean, I've been logging fuel pressure and it's been 160 170ish bar so I'm gonna guess that's okay. I wish it was the problem though


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[mg_90]

Question: Has anyone found hardware that works in combination with the OEM shifter? Like I love how smooth the OEM shifter is but i absolutely hate how sloppy it is. So much that I keep the DG in that makes me miss 3rd. Thats the only gear that i miss tho, I have no issues getting into any of the others. Anyway, I would love to put the OEM back in and use a shifter bracket or bushing or w.e. to make it not sloppy. Anybody use anything like this with good results?

Not BT here, but regarding the shifter I can comment.

I have the DG SS, Verdict Motorsports bracket bushings, USP SS clutch line (I am going to replace it with the KMD line) and removed the OEM accumulator. With these mods I can change gears without issues even when flatshifting with the WotBox, and got recently an OEM metal shifter bracket from a MkIV R32 for about 7$ to throw in as soon as I put the new clutch in the following weeks, not expecting that much of a change, but for the money maybe it will be worth.

EDIT: I also have the ECS Tuning bleeder block, installed it bout a year ago and quite happy with it.

 

[U-20T]

There is also a restricted in the oem bleeder block you can remove. It's worth removing for sure.

 

[HYDE161]

Yes sir. Just did it when I put the big turbo on. It actually seemed to make a noticeable difference in how the clutch engaged and disengaged.

Jamie@apr is the one who actually suggested it in a k04 thread. He said that, and the bleeder were the two best things to do for quick shifting.


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Tutorial?

 

[mg_90]

Tutorial?

Not really needed. Remove the battery and battery tray and in the firewall you can see this:

Here is the reservoir still attached and the SS line connected to it, I took this picture before removing anything, just remove the clips holding the reservoir (circled in green) to the line that comes from the firewall and connect there the clutch line (circled in blue).

 

[vwgti2.0t]

Tutorial?

Not really needed. Remove the battery and battery tray and in the firewall you can see this:

Here is the reservoir still attached and the SS line connected to it, I took this picture before removing anything, just remove the clips holding the reservoir (circled in green) to the line that comes from the firewall and connect there the clutch line (circled in blue).

That ^^. I never knew why my USP line was so long until I did this, now it is the correct length.

 

[mg_90]

That ^^. I never knew why my USP line was so long until I did this, now it is the correct length.

Same here!

 

[GTR_Killer]

Not really needed. Remove the battery and battery tray and in the firewall you can see this:

Here is the reservoir still attached and the SS line connected to it, I took this picture before removing anything, just remove the clips holding the reservoir (circled in green) to the line that comes from the firewall and connect there the clutch line (circled in blue).

why can i see no picture

 

[GTR_Killer]

It's my work computer, I see it above looking at it on my phone.

 

[U-20T]

/thread - see new part 2

 

[jettaglx91]

I've done a few logs up to 6500 but I don't feel comfortable bringing it up that high anymore, the misfires are eventually going to damage something. I'll post the entire log folder I have stored, there should be a few pulls up to 6500 in there.

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Problem is previous logs are useless now that some problems have been fix. The misfires aren't gonna hurt anything for a short stint like that, plus if it sees too many it will just disable the cylinder.

Again the overly rich condition isn't gonna hurt anything when making a pull. Its actually the opposite, its so safe its killing power and at worse will waste gas and kill your plugs.

/thread - see new part 2

huh what am i missing.

 

[U-20T]

Tom there is a part 2 started since this one is at almost max post count

 

[james9120]

Who's going to get the 1000th post? Is that even correct, 1000th?

 

[jettaglis]

10,000th post. This is confusing with 2 threads, I could barely keep up with how active it has been.