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Carbon Buildup 101

hbrown0509

hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
Jeffs2013GTI said:
Oil Catch Cans are NOT a cure for Carbon deposits, even though they are being sold as such.



Due research on the web people still have the problem, if anything it just slows it down.



Also, if you live in cold climate where it freezes? This can be an issue as well, again read up on that.



Lastly, In states like California where Emissions are taken too seriously, an oil catch can is an Automatic fail at the emissions test.



If your willing to spend $500 on a catch can? Why not just go crazy and do Water or Water/Meth Injection instead? THIS would actually do something and get a performance gain at the same time.



I believe if you change out yoru PCV Valve every 50k or so as a precaution, use good oil with a low NOACK rating and use top tier gas, these will all help about as much as that catch can will.



Just look at it as part of maintenance on the car to have the valves cleaned every 80k miles or so. This goes FOR ALL DI MOTORS not just VW's by the way.



Just part of owning a DI car unfortunately.





Dub On....





Jeff
Click to expand...



I noticed this summer that the catch can didn’t really catch anything, but now that it’s cooled down and obviously catching more moisture with some blow by crap. Also, have never had issues with oil consumption, but I change mine usually every 5k miles since I do a lot of stop and go commuting.


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F

FriggenT1

Banned
Jeffs2013GTI said:
Oil Catch Cans are NOT a cure for Carbon deposits, even though they are being sold as such.

Due research on the web people still have the problem, if anything it just slows it down.

Also, if you live in cold climate where it freezes? This can be an issue as well, again read up on that.

Lastly, In states like California where Emissions are taken too seriously, an oil catch can is an Automatic fail at the emissions test.

If your willing to spend $500 on a catch can? Why not just go crazy and do Water or Water/Meth Injection instead? THIS would actually do something and get a performance gain at the same time.

I believe if you change out yoru PCV Valve every 50k or so as a precaution, use good oil with a low NOACK rating and use top tier gas, these will all help about as much as that catch can will.

Just look at it as part of maintenance on the car to have the valves cleaned every 80k miles or so. This goes FOR ALL DI MOTORS not just VW's by the way.

Just part of owning a DI car unfortunately.


Dub On....


Jeff
Click to expand...

The problem with the pcv is they are plastic pieces of junk that don't always have a clean sign of being bad. It's basically guess work. I bought the newest revision when my last one went out around 20k or so, but now with 25 psi peak? Little plastic valves don't often do well with that sort of pressure. Some have good luck, some don't for whatever reason. Either way, the catch cans can and will freeze, the pcvs can and will fail...a VTA setup is a little better since pressure can still be let off.
 
hbrown0509

hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
FriggenT said:
The problem with the pcv is they are plastic pieces of junk that don't always have a clean sign of being bad. It's basically guess work. I bought the newest revision when my last one went out around 20k or so, but now with 25 psi peak? Little plastic valves don't often do well with that sort of pressure. Some have good luck, some don't for whatever reason. Either way, the catch cans can and will freeze, the pcvs can and will fail...a VTA setup is a little better since pressure can still be let off.
Click to expand...



Yeah that was the only reason I switched to a catch can was my first one failed. Even at stage 2 levels. Only downside I will have to remove my CC due to freezing temps coming up soon in the Chicago winter. I wish they made a aftermarket design that still could just be routed the OEM way for people in winter climates that don’t want the OEM PCV. I don’t know if I’d want the oil mist all over my engine bay with a VTA setup.


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J

jysaw

Ready to race!
FriggenT said:
The problem with the pcv is they are plastic pieces of junk that don't always have a clean sign of being bad. It's basically guess work. I bought the newest revision when my last one went out around 20k or so, but now with 25 psi peak? Little plastic valves don't often do well with that sort of pressure. Some have good luck, some don't for whatever reason. Either way, the catch cans can and will freeze, the pcvs can and will fail...a VTA setup is a little better since pressure can still be let off.
Click to expand...

may I know what's the latest revision part #?
 
F

FriggenT1

Banned
hbrown0509 said:
Yeah that was the only reason I switched to a catch can was my first one failed. Even at stage 2 levels. Only downside I will have to remove my CC due to freezing temps coming up soon in the Chicago winter. I wish they made a aftermarket design that still could just be routed the OEM way for people in winter climates that don’t want the OEM PCV. I don’t know if I’d want the oil mist all over my engine bay with a VTA setup.


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Click to expand...

You can buy an Amazon cc for about 80.00 or so, route the front to the front pcv, route the rear to the exhaust, cap off the intake pcv port....and done
 
hbrown0509

hbrown0509

Go Kart Champion
FriggenT said:
You can buy an Amazon cc for about 80.00 or so, route the front to the front pcv, route the rear to the exhaust, cap off the intake pcv port....and done
Click to expand...



Yeah I’ll probably ruin my CAT doing that lol. Do you just plug it into where the unused O2 bung sits?


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F

FriggenT1

Banned
hbrown0509 said:
Yeah I’ll probably ruin my CAT doing that lol. Do you just plug it into where the unused O2 bung sits?


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Click to expand...

I don't have an extra bung, but I think you can do it anywhere on the exhaust. I'm catless so it doesn't matter to me lol
 
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