GolNat
Autocross Champion
You have to manually adjust the runner flaps by pushing on the arm. I just happen to be standing in front of my car with the good open so here is a pic.
The black piece that my middle finger is on.
6
Carbon Buildup 101
- Thread starter Bender1
- Start date
You have to manually adjust the runner flaps by pushing on the arm. I just happen to be standing in front of my car with the good open so here is a pic.
The black piece that my middle finger is on.
theclutch
Go Kart Newbie
Thanks for the tip! With roughly 75k miles, looks like I'm in good shape currently at stage 2.
The combo pic is cylinder 2. The separate ones are cylinder 3. It was hard to maneuver the scope and take a pic while tugging at that arm.
I'll check again at 100k.
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ROH ECHT
K04 PLAY
I have a 2007 GTI 2.0t FSI bought in Nov. 2006. So, I have been dealing with this subject for over thirteen years on the MK5. I did a treatment with BG44k, and another with CRC at 60k and 90k miles. At 120k miles, I thought to look up the MSDS for each of those products as well as a couple of others including SeaFoam. Finding in them there was on average of about 25%-30% solvents of different sorts...NAPHTHA, Xylene, mineral spirits, etc..
Since I knew the valves were clean...I thought it would make much more sense to give it a blow-by more often so to keep them clean. Wouldn't it be better to keep the valves clean rather than try knocking off a bunch of it. What it is really missing is fuel. The last 5 to 6 years, I only drive the MK5 about 4k miles per year and I do the oil change each June. So, since it was at 120k miles, I have been doing the blow-by each year just before I do the oil change. I use a fuel to solvent solution ratio of 11:1, or "11oz fuel to 1oz NAPHTHA or Xylene". When I come home after it has been run and heated up, I do the blow-by if I feel like doing it that day...and I am also planning to do the oil change real soon. After injecting the fluid and replace the IAT sensor, I keep it at near 2k rpm for near ten minutes followed by a 10 minute drive keeping it as close to 3k rpm as much as possible.
I agree with everyone that the best way to clean major build-up is by blasting or "soaking&scraping" and I mention this in my vid description. I am also aware of the concerns of dislodged bits of carbon passing through the combustion, turbo, and catalyst...and why I recommend using an endo-scope followed by a blast or scrape job first. It is your risk, I just chose to come up with a less intrusive service and something that will hopefully keep them clean.
Here's my vid, but I have switched to a different tip/nozzle since the one I found was made for a finer mist when spraying.
Here are pics of before
after
The pics are from the first time I did this. Yes, those other methods will clean more of the carbon off, but remember, this was the first time at 80k miles. So, to see the valve guides and valve stems with just one blow-by was remarkable in my mind. Pic quality is due to a cheap $10 endo...newer one with better quality and lighting is to be ordered soon. Again, the vid;
Since I knew the valves were clean...I thought it would make much more sense to give it a blow-by more often so to keep them clean. Wouldn't it be better to keep the valves clean rather than try knocking off a bunch of it. What it is really missing is fuel. The last 5 to 6 years, I only drive the MK5 about 4k miles per year and I do the oil change each June. So, since it was at 120k miles, I have been doing the blow-by each year just before I do the oil change. I use a fuel to solvent solution ratio of 11:1, or "11oz fuel to 1oz NAPHTHA or Xylene". When I come home after it has been run and heated up, I do the blow-by if I feel like doing it that day...and I am also planning to do the oil change real soon. After injecting the fluid and replace the IAT sensor, I keep it at near 2k rpm for near ten minutes followed by a 10 minute drive keeping it as close to 3k rpm as much as possible.
I agree with everyone that the best way to clean major build-up is by blasting or "soaking&scraping" and I mention this in my vid description. I am also aware of the concerns of dislodged bits of carbon passing through the combustion, turbo, and catalyst...and why I recommend using an endo-scope followed by a blast or scrape job first. It is your risk, I just chose to come up with a less intrusive service and something that will hopefully keep them clean.
Here's my vid, but I have switched to a different tip/nozzle since the one I found was made for a finer mist when spraying.
Here are pics of before
after
The pics are from the first time I did this. Yes, those other methods will clean more of the carbon off, but remember, this was the first time at 80k miles. So, to see the valve guides and valve stems with just one blow-by was remarkable in my mind. Pic quality is due to a cheap $10 endo...newer one with better quality and lighting is to be ordered soon. Again, the vid;
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theclutch
Go Kart Newbie
Thanks for doing the video. I was thinking of doing the same thing as preventative maintenance. However, my concern was that wouldn't the spray really only hit the middle two cylinders? When I do my endoscope thingy, I can only see the middle two cylinders. I can't access the outer two.
Thoughts anyone?
ROH ECHT
K04 PLAY
The air is going to go into every cylinder on their intake strokes and so should the fuel. I removed the nozzle from this sprayer →(https://shop.harborfreight.com/medi...8eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/6/56167_W3.jpg) and it fits snuggly in a 5/16" ID hose →(https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-5-...JK59S5GaJX27ImRPHLRoCWuMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) and the combo fits perfectly in the IAT port. I did so because this tip makes a finer mist than the one in the vid and has less velocity when coming out of the nozzle.
My injectors are going to be replaced within a year and I will get a look at the evenness at that point.
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Here are the quotes I have gotten so far. I am at 80k miles and average 22mpg mostly city, idle slightly rough when cold but drives fine otherwise.
$958.28 - Carbon cleaning with injectors using scrubbing method.
$350 - Walnut blasting.
$770.03 - Walnut blasting. Very thorough quote with intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, injector repair kit. $93 to adapt throttle body.
$958.28 - Carbon cleaning with injectors using scrubbing method.
$350 - Walnut blasting.
$770.03 - Walnut blasting. Very thorough quote with intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, injector repair kit. $93 to adapt throttle body.
I would go with the third quote. How many miles do you have on your odometer?
I have 80,000 miles. I did DSG fluid change and oil change at the same time so some quotes were approaching $2k. After looking up the KBB value of my car, I wasn't about to spend Porsche service prices on the car when I can get the same service at a indie VW mod shop.
Happy with the service and the outcome. Idles smooth where I don't know its on again, feels a tiny bit peppier, and maybe a 1-2 mpg better but I haven't been driving it much during the safer at home order.
Happy with the service and the outcome. Idles smooth where I don't know its on again, feels a tiny bit peppier, and maybe a 1-2 mpg better but I haven't been driving it much during the safer at home order.
Gr8N0rthW0lf
Go Kart Champion
The shop I go to does exactly the same as the third option here, definitely what I'm planning on doing. Seems worth it to me for sure, especially since I'm at 180,000km (111,000 miles) and planning to tune and mod
synthetikv
Ready to race!
Just adding this for comparison sake. Quoted $580 for the cleaning including gaskets and injector seals. Extremely reputable shop that specializes in Euro cars. I've always felt 100% comfortable handing them the keys so this seemed like a no brainer for me.
mkv_martinez
Go Kart Champion
Just tried this the other day and boy you guys have got balls.
I wiggled my inspection camera in that hole but it wasn't so easy to move around in there and I kept getting nervous I was gonna get hung up on something and not be able to pull the cam out.
Maybe another day i'll have the guts to push the camera into each runner - but holy hell it does not seem as simple as i thought it was.