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Clutch pedal goes to floor PLEASE help

Hedgehodge

New member
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Am4oxjiBayafkNcC4uGBWVvUytko6w

Edit: I unplugged the clutch delay valve here attached to the clutch master and no brake fluid here either coming out https://1drv.ms/u/s!Am4oxjiBayafkNcDB5w0H8b9BVe48g

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Am4oxjiBayafkNcEjJnxXy7tPjxQqg if there was air when I pressed the clutch 5x I would have seen it move some...nothing. I bench bleed this master and as I did it would push fluid, then pull it back with clutch going in then pulling out...

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Am4oxjiBayafkNcGFH4ZKvV2FUQxng

Tons of fluid going into the hose straight out of side of brake reservoir, poured out...how do I bleed this clutch master , did it on bench fine

So I intermittently had this issue in the video so I decided to replace my clutch since I assumed it was the slave cylinder.

I replaced my clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder/throwout.

I bench bleed the slave and clutch master, I even went and added fluid to the lines and quickly connected them (straw affect).

I tried manual bleeding and motive pressure bleeder at up to 15psi, scared to go past that, don't want to blow seals in brake master.

I filled the brake reservoir to the tip top.

What gives , please help
 

GolNat

Member
Last time I had to bleed a clutch it took a hell of a long time. Like 10-15 min of pumping to get it to finally build pressure. How long are you pumping?
 

Tony48

Member
Last time I had to bleed a clutch it took a hell of a long time. Like 10-15 min of pumping to get it to finally build pressure. How long are you pumping?
Yes, clutch takes awhile to bleed. Although I did it without bench bleeding the slave cylinder so that could have been why. The fluid pickup for the clutch is very high up in the reservoir so make sure you are topping it off after every 1-2 bleeding sequences or you will suck in air and continually experience issues.
 

Hedgehodge

New member
Yes, clutch takes awhile to bleed. Although I did it without bench bleeding the slave cylinder so that could have been why. The fluid pickup for the clutch is very high up in the reservoir so make sure you are topping it off after every 1-2 bleeding sequences or you will suck in air and continually experience issues.
I filled to the brim and when I pull the line from reservoir it gushes out. I mean I guess I'll go out there and pump if for 15 minutes but isn't that what the power bleeder is supposed to eliminate ?
 

Tony48

Member
I filled to the brim and when I pull the line from reservoir it gushes out. I mean I guess I'll go out there and pump if for 15 minutes but isn't that what the power bleeder is supposed to eliminate ?
Yeah that's the idea but I say give it a go bleeding manually since the power bleeder is one of the only possible causes for your issue that's left.
 

jay745

track sl00t
15psi isn't enough with a powerbleeder. you need to pump it to 28-29 psi to bleed the clutch. Make sure you top the fluid completely off after each bleed.
 

Hedgehodge

New member
15psi isn't enough with a powerbleeder. you need to pump it to 28-29 psi to bleed the clutch. Make sure you top the fluid completely off after each bleed.
I read that on ecsclutch install too, isn't our MC only rated for like 10psi before it starts blowing seals? The power bleeder maxes at 30psi. I mean I'll give it a go I guess. Why does it need so much psi?
 

jay745

track sl00t
I read that on ecsclutch install too, isn't our MC only rated for like 10psi before it starts blowing seals? The power bleeder maxes at 30psi. I mean I'll give it a go I guess. Why does it need so much psi?
I've had to do that several times during clutch installs and never blown out a MC, not sure why sometimes a bench bleed is enough and other times I need the power bleeder. Keep it around 28-29 not to 30. Reason it needs that much pressure is because any less and all the pressure will go to the brake lines instead of the clutch line. Can't tell you why it was engineered that way but it works. Good luck.
 

Hedgehodge

New member
I've had to do that several times during clutch installs and never blown out a MC, not sure why sometimes a bench bleed is enough and other times I need the power bleeder. Keep it around 28-29 not to 30. Reason it needs that much pressure is because any less and all the pressure will go to the brake lines instead of the clutch line. Can't tell you why it was engineered that way but it works. Good luck.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot. I guess that makes sense seeing as how 3/4 of the area goes to the brake lines so it's mainly pushing that. I have bleed it before with 10psi but not airlocked in some places. If it fixes it I'll let you know,nor if it blows (crosses fingers lol)
 

Hedgehodge

New member
I had a feeling something was off with it not even pushing air through the lines when I pumped the clutch....sure enough the new clutch master cylinder popped out of the pedal.

I had to remove the entire pedal again, ugh. Thankfully I didn't crank psi to 30 to MAYBE blow a reservoir since it's old plastic.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Am4oxjiBayafkNcHAthKp485B0XNBw

Make sure you get it in good and you hear it SNAP. I didn't hear it SNAP so I stuck two flathead screwdrivers in there and pulled the plastic clip deeper into the pedal until it snapped, all set and bleed well, driving it around light for break in now, thanks all.

I bench bleed it again but this time with it in the pedal outside with 1/2" tubing and a mustard bottle from the dollar store filled with brake fluid. Then I cut a piece of tubing with a cap and left it connected to hold fluid in and pushed it through the firewall and connected it, all set
 

Allchokedup

New member
I had this problem but I put the clutch disk in backwards..i bled and bled then i slowly realized it wasnt a hydraulic problem. Glad you got it fixed!
Have you seen the mod where you take the little "reducer" that fluid goes through in the plastic connector? Sorry this is a bit vague, I did it while I was at it. Is supposed to make the clutch feel more responsive. Meehhhh
 

Hedgehodge

New member
I had this problem but I put the clutch disk in backwards..i bled and bled then i slowly realized it wasnt a hydraulic problem. Glad you got it fixed!
Have you seen the mod where you take the little "reducer" that fluid goes through in the plastic connector? Sorry this is a bit vague, I did it while I was at it. Is supposed to make the clutch feel more responsive. Meehhhh
Yeah me too thanks! Yes, I did this mod first when I was bleeding it to make sure the slave was possibly the issue. I still don't know what fixed it....whatever, new clutch/slave/master. Just wish my ac worked lol, it's been sitting so long i forgot about that.

That sucks, to have to remove it all again, nty. I'm glad I read about that, didn't know it was a thing to put it in backwards, the fact it lets you is even more infuriating
 

Allchokedup

New member
Yeah me too thanks! Yes, I did this mod first when I was bleeding it to make sure the slave was possibly the issue. I still don't know what fixed it....whatever, new clutch/slave/master. Just wish my ac worked lol, it's been sitting so long i forgot about that.

That sucks, to have to remove it all again, nty. I'm glad I read about that, didn't know it was a thing to put it in backwards, the fact it lets you is even more infuriating
Absolutely! I pulled it back out and fixed it In 3 hours, wife yelling helped! Lol
 

Allchokedup

New member
Did you notice a difference after removing that little peice? I know some sell a billet delete kit, I would have been disappointed had I bought it! I hadnt replaced a clutch since my AC VW and those only go on one way. What a learning experience..i started looking at the southbend on ECS found my clutch kit and saw in one of the pics "THIS SIDE TOWARDS FLYWHEEL" shit got real shortly after.hahahah
 

Hedgehodge

New member
What little piece, in the bleeder block? If so, no. I just put in the billet kit from ecs because I thought my OEM was leaking around bleeder nipple and letting in air for my clutch issue. Doesn't want to leave 1st gear or sometimes 2nd or 3rd until RPM slows down, very odd none can give me an answer, I think it's the spec clutch kit....

the pedal issue was the plastic piece inside slipped out somehow, I bench bled it and didn't test operation before inserting it. I had to remove it and correct it and bench bled it again, problem solved. Glad I didn't force more PSI to blow master. I removed hoses to see fluid flow to pinpoint it at clutch pedal
 
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