Clutch will not bleed! Help

[Jacobw36]

I have been going through a nightmare here. All in all, put a used transmission into my mk6. The 02q. My first question is, will an 02q from a GTI mount up in a Jetta GLI with no problems??
Okay so the big problem I have is that my clutch absolutely will not bleed. When I removed the original transmission (bad input shaft bearing) I didn’t have a way to stop brake fluid from coming out of the feed line for the slave/TO bearing so it dribbled until it was dry. Now the new (used) one is installed and I will pump and hold pedal down with a metal jack handle wedged in there and crack the bleeder valve at the clutch bleeder assembly, close it, and repeat the process. At first I had no pedal and the bubbles that came out were almost foamy! until finally I began to feel some resistance and then it became solid fluid coming from my valve (looking through a clear hose attached to nipple). Fired the car up and with the clutch pedal fully depressed I still cannot get the car in gear. It’s obvious the clutch is not disengaging from the engine. So I Repeated thee bleeding procedure probably 20 times even with a firm clutch pedal and still no results.
Other symptoms I’m worried about: firstly I can hear and feel a clunk coming from the transmission (while car is off) when quickly depressing the clutch. Sounds like the TO bearing for some reason(brand new and used for maybe 200 miles before I realized it wasn’t that bearing going out but the input shaft bearing). Secondly when the vehicle is started and I begin to depress the clutch I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal.
So I’m thinking one of two things is happening: either my clutch is somehow highly misaligned(I aligned it perfectly, even used a micrometer) or possibly my clutch master cylinder is gone

 

[JOHNDERS2586]

First off, disclaimer I am by no means an expert. I just had my trans out to replace the clutch. Its the second clutch I've done in my life. Anyway to the point . I've heard these clutches can be a bitch to bleed. Ultimately I upgraded to an ECS tuning bleeder block.. I had heard the stock bleeder valve really needs to be pressure bled. Meaning you need to invest in a little kit they sell to pressurize the system an force the fluid through.. Now with the ECS bleeder it's more free flowing an has a 1 way valve built in. It took me maybe 10 minutes following ECS directions. Worked the first try. Have had no issues.. So that may help your situation IF there is not some other underlying problem, to upgrade that.. All I had to do was crack the bleeder 1/4 turn make damn sure I had plenty of fluid in the res , filling it to the top an keeping a close eye to keep filling as I go And just pumping the pedal by hand , slowly maybe 10-20 times in all. Untill the fluid ran clear an bubble free out of the bleeder.closed it up an checked function. I did it a few extra just to be sure.. My other thoughts when you mentioned your car not going into gear is did you re align the shift linkage properly after the install? I would check it.. pretty easy to do takes about 10 min.. I had taken the linkages apart to swap in some more aggressive bushings. An forgot that step an it made getting into gear difficult untill I realized I needed to readjust and align them properly.. Just a thought.. Other thought would be did you "lock" the trans in neutral. Maybe it needs to be unlocked..

 

[jay745]

Sounds like the slave wasn't bench bled fully off the car. Your only option is to get a pressure bleeder unless you want to drop the trans again. Make sure the master is completely topped off, then pressurize to 30 psi and bleed the clutch again. Do this a few times making sure to completely top off the master each time and it should be able to get the air out of the slave.

 

[Jacobw36]

First off, disclaimer I am by no means an expert. I just had my trans out to replace the clutch. Its the second clutch I've done in my life. Anyway to the point . I've heard these clutches can be a bitch to bleed. Ultimately I upgraded to an ECS tuning bleeder block.. I had heard the stock bleeder valve really needs to be pressure bled. Meaning you need to invest in a little kit they sell to pressurize the system an force the fluid through.. Now with the ECS bleeder it's more free flowing an has a 1 way valve built in. It took me maybe 10 minutes following ECS directions. Worked the first try. Have had no issues.. So that may help your situation IF there is not some other underlying problem, to upgrade that.. All I had to do was crack the bleeder 1/4 turn make damn sure I had plenty of fluid in the res , filling it to the top an keeping a close eye to keep filling as I go And just pumping the pedal by hand , slowly maybe 10-20 times in all. Untill the fluid ran clear an bubble free out of the bleeder.closed it up an checked function. I did it a few extra just to be sure.. My other thoughts when you mentioned your car not going into gear is did you re align the shift linkage properly after the install? I would check it.. pretty easy to do takes about 10 min.. I had taken the linkages apart to swap in some more aggressive bushings. An forgot that step an it made getting into gear difficult untill I realized I needed to readjust and align them properly.. Just a thought.. Other thought would be did you "lock" the trans in neutral. Maybe it needs to be unlocked..

Well I found the problem. Took the trans out today and the TO bearing literally fell to the ground. Which is a unit with the slave cylinder… that’s why it wouldn’t bleed! My brand new ECS tuning slave cylinder took a crap on me

 

[jay745]

Well I found the problem. Took the trans out today and the TO bearing literally fell to the ground. Which is a unit with the slave cylinder… that’s why it wouldn’t bleed! My brand new ECS tuning slave cylinder took a crap on me

There's a Facebook group with about 10k people called "why I hate ecs tuning" for a reason. Sucks man, hope it gets sorted for you