DIY: aftermarket siren (horn delete)

[mikeleemk6]

Please pm me ph d if u get some more of the alpine ones man

 

[mikeleemk6]

Also the price man thanks

 

[pyro h4cker1]

I just did this, and now I'm getting weird TPMS issues.. I actually had this mounted near the fog light area, but relocated it because I thought the magnet might be affecting the TPMS. Light is still on, even after clearing the code with VCDS.

Just wondering if anyone had a similar experience?

 

[nvturbo]

TPMS has nothing to do with the horn siren. Did you cut into both wires at the same time? When I had someone VAG-COM for the disarm chirp, he found out an error for the horn but was able to clear it. The only time the TPMS warning light came on was when I replaced the Detroits for my current set of wheels.....even though I don't have TPMS sensors mounted on the wheels. Make sure to reset the button, located in the glovebox.

 

[NoRegrets78]

Instead of cutting the stock wires, has anyone used taps?

 

[nvturbo]

Instead of cutting the stock wires, has anyone used taps?

DO NOT cut the wires. You just strip the insulation back about a 1/4" to expose the copper wires and then solder. I still have the factory plug intact....safely taped off and secured. Taps are UNRELIABLE.

 

[xHeartcoreboyx]

DO NOT cut the wires. You just strip the insulation back about a 1/4" to expose the copper wires and then solder. I still have the factory plug intact....safely taped off and secured. Taps are UNRELIABLE.

How so? Been using one for my boost gauge for a year, no issues.

 

[NoRegrets78]

I've used taps for lots of things. Never had any issues. Safer than accidentally snipping the stock wire trying to get the copper exposed. I don't doubt my soldering abilities, just my stripping abilities :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pyro h4cker1]

TPMS has nothing to do with the horn siren. Did you cut into both wires at the same time? When I had someone VAG-COM for the disarm chirp, he found out an error for the horn but was able to clear it. The only time the TPMS warning light came on was when I replaced the Detroits for my current set of wheels.....even though I don't have TPMS sensors mounted on the wheels. Make sure to reset the button, located in the glovebox.

I reset the TPMS using vagcom, i'm wondering if the magnet from the speaker affected the TPMS. I had my horn in the fog area, a little less than 6 inches away from the sensor. So maybe that's what caused it

I also have a 2010 which uses TPMS sensors in each wheel, thus no need for reset button. 2011 and on use the braking system to monitor tire pressure.

DO NOT cut the wires. You just strip the insulation back about a 1/4" to expose the copper wires and then solder. I still have the factory plug intact....safely taped off and secured. Taps are UNRELIABLE.

Taps SUCK. I used to wire police cars and we NEVER used a tap.

 

[nvturbo]

I reset the TPMS using vagcom, i'm wondering if the magnet from the speaker affected the TPMS. I had my horn in the fog area, a little less than 6 inches away from the sensor. So maybe that's what caused it

I also have a 2010 which uses TPMS sensors in each wheel, thus no need for reset button. 2011 and on use the braking system to monitor tire pressure.



Taps SUCK. I used to wire police cars and we NEVER used a tap.

When I did this mod, I had an error code as well, but Vag-Com cleared it. I guess it showed up because I disconnected the siren.


No doubt about those WORTHLESS T-taps. I refuse to use one because it's NOT a direct connection of both wires.....and will eventually fail.

 

[pyro h4cker1]

When I did this mod, I had an error code as well, but Vag-Com cleared it. I guess it showed up because I disconnected the siren.


No doubt about those WORTHLESS T-taps. I refuse to use one because it's NOT a direct connection of both wires.....and will eventually fail.

Interesting... so how do you have your wired up? My connector is not plugged into the old horn. I have the siren tapped into the wires, but the connector is physically disconnected.

 

[veedoubleme]

Taps work, and work well most of the time. It's that "most of the time" part that makes me solder every single connection I ever make. It was more work when I did my sub install, but it's the better/right way to do it.

 

[crashdb]

Use Posi-Taps instead of those crappy 3M taps. They're more expensive, but well worth it. I've been using them for years on various motorcycles and cars and I've never had one problem.

 

[phd-12v]

i refuse to use t-taps

even though i take calls everyday for improper use of the correct connection to a vehicle. And 75% of those calls are t-tapped related. EVERY SINGLE DAY.

 

[NoRegrets78]

I was meaning to use the tap style that AWE includes with their boost gauge. Those taps are beautiful and make the 3m taps look like garbage.