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DIY: Tiguan Pipe Install & Noise Maker Delete

Clempson13

Ready to race!
I'm going to stop by my dealer today and see what pricing they give me and discuss the warranty aspect of it....there shouldn't be an issue since I'm replacing with OEM parts...but this is the same service center that told me my warranty would be void if i installed an APR stage 1 intake and ever got a check engine light for anything.... ....
 

chapusin1

Go Kart Champion
Today I failed miserably on this. I was so frustrated! On step 6, the screw is on the other side as opposed to yours. Yours is easily accesible, on the other side I can't put a screwdriver in there! with the coupler there's no space left to fit it. The only option would be to unscrew the next one on top and bring down the whole piece. On step 7, how the hell were you able to access that t-30 screw? the hose that's in front of it prevents my hand from getting even close to it. It might be easier if I disconnect the hose that goes into the IC (or radiator I don't know which one is in the back), that should give me more room but I don't want to make a mess in there. Ah well.. I will try again tomorrow but damn I started all confident and finished all sad
 
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micah360

Ready to race!
Today I failed miserably on this. I was so frustrated! On step 6, the screw is on the other side as opposed to yours. Yours is easily accesible, on the other side I can't put a screwdriver in there! with the coupler there's no space left to fit it. The only option would be to unscrew the next one on top and bring down the whole piece. On step 7, how the hell were you able to access that t-30 screw? the hose that's in front of it prevents my hand from getting even close to it. It might be easier if I disconnect the hose that goes into the IC (or radiator I don't know which one is in the back), that should give me more room but I don't want to make a mess in there. Ah well.. I will try again tomorrow but damn I started all confident and finished all sad

For step 6: can you fit a 7mm socket on it (instead of a screwdriver)? Then use an joint attachment (so you can get to it) with an extension. That might work.

For step 7: I'm pretty sure you just need a 2" or 4" extension to get to this.
 

roadking26

Passed Driver's Ed
Please accept my thanks for your efforts, too -- I think this is the best way to do this versus using a plug (lot's of stories here about plugs that failed to hold). Sorry for an off-topic question, but I noticed you indicate you're running a "D" diverter valve. You swapped whatever was stock for a "D"-series DV? I'm guessing you found you had the older-style diaphram-type DV and swapped it out? Just curious because I thought the MkVI came stock with the "D"-type -- obviously that's not correct. I have a Stage I upgrade as well, and I'm concerned about the increased boost possibly blowing out the older-style DV. Your opinion? Thanks again for sharing the great DIY documentation.
 

nis240sxt

Ready to race!
I've done several hours of research/reading on the topic on various websites, but I still can't find a conclusive reason for the problem. The "fixes" vary from letting the car break-in to installing a new turbo.

There are a couple guys that said installing a new DP fixed their problem, others that said the APR Stage I reflash changed the duty cycle on the wastegate and alleviated the noise, and one guy said installing his new intake fixed his.

Of course there are dozens of people with the problem and some were at the point of selling their cars beacuse of it. I suspect that there were at least a few that got to that point because they disappeared from threads they were very active on for months.

I'm going to start with the noise pipe delete and work my way up through a new intake, reflash, and new DP before deciding on the wastegate.

On a side note - with the noise pipe delete - do you expect to have issues at the dealership for warranty work? That would suck if they refused to do any work because of it! :p

Well, me and my brother have installed the noise plug on ours and we both hear the rattle. I'm starting to wonder if peeps with the noise "plugs" have this issue and the ones that do the noise pipe delete don't. Can the peeps with the rattle chime in and list which noise solution they used? or if somebody who did the tiguan pipe can chime in who has the rattle...that would prolly clear up this question.
 

anotherfiz

Ready to race!
any videos or sound clips depicting stock engine sound vs noise pipe deleted engine sound?

I sort of like the sound i hear coming from the engine in the mk6, but i suspsect its the same sound most of you call "sea-dooy'

That being said, if boost comes on faster, im a function over aesthetics guy so, it seems like a no brainer mod.. plus ill be putting intake and exhaust on soon enough so it will sound like a monster anyway :)
 

fredf

Go Kart Champion
Just to clarify: is every step after #21 just for cosmetics?
From what I can see, if I wish, I can do #1 to #21 and I will be done. Right?

thanks
 

Geofux

Ready to race!
FYI, for anyone looking to do this mod, there is currently no stock on the Tiguan pipe and the new MK6 pipe in North America from VW.
 

munkey

Ready to race!
any thoughts on comparisons between the tiguan and other noise pipe delete options?

I believe neuspeed and bsh both have their own aftermarket versions.

Any benefit going to those over the OEM tiguan pipe?
 
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plac

Guest
FYI, for anyone looking to do this mod, there is currently no stock on the Tiguan pipe and the new MK6 pipe in North America from VW.

my tiguan pipe arrives tomorrow. i must have got the last one.
 
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plac

Guest
17. Remove the alternator bracket (if you wish)…since it’s not needed anymore.

Since you are talking about the most detailed cleanup ever, you forgot one thing. You can also remove another bracket that is no longer needed. Don't lose the o-ring when you put it away for storage.









 
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