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DSG Stutter/Jerk low speed or incline

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
I know there a literally thousands of threads on this, so I apologize in advance for the redundancy. Trying to get recent opinions/experiences.

I have 2013 DSG 4-door GTI.

Intermittently my DSG stutters at very low speed and on inclines. Occasionally hitting the gas from a stop (where it engages 1st) it'll jerk... Feels like it's catching, releasing and catching again.

Does the same leaving from a stop on a hill.

Running a very stiff wastegate which makes part throttle iffy, hard to pull off smoothly sometimes... Basically all go or no go in 1st. These issues happen most often when I'm trying to inch the car up an incline.

I got my dsg fluid changed less than 2k miles ago, I've noticed the behavior since then... Had regular dsg quirks before, but not this. Doesn't happen all the time, but enough to merit concern. I've had IE DSG tune for about 5k mi.

I'm going to run Basic settings and Clutch Adaptation tomorrow when I find my vcds cable. I've heard this fixes the issue, and I'm pretty sure shop didn't run adaptation after fluid change.

Also gonna up the hill hold setting probably.

Really hope my mechatronic isn't failing... I don't think that's the case... But idk.

Transmission is buttery smooth besides that. DSG tune allowed car to utilize increased tq from tune and no long drops rpm in the middle of pulls fighting the tq.

Thoughts? Opinions? Suggestions?
 

eldiablo1

Ready to race!
Subscribed for info...

I have similar symptoms since I changed my trans fluid about 20k miles ago. I attributed the issue to my new trans / motor mounts. APR stage 1, stock DSG tune. I don't have VCDS or Vag-Com to run clutch adaptation.
 
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DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
Subscribed for info...

I have similar symptoms since I changed my trans fluid about 20k miles ago. I attributed the issue to my new trans / motor mounts. Stock DSG tune. I don't have VCDS or Vag-Com to run clutch adaptation.


Good point... I also installed 034 mounts, insert and apr pendulum about 5k mi ago.
 

Jiffyjetta

Ready to race!
On my GTI, I had to run the adaptation every few months to get rid of the shuddering. I was tuned and drove it pretty hard. I was at about 100k and looking back on it, I probably needed to replace the clutches.
 

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
On my GTI, I had to run the adaptation every few months to get rid of the shuddering. I was tuned and drove it pretty hard. I was at about 100k and looking back on it, I probably needed to replace the clutches.

Ok thanks, I'm gonna run the adaptation sometime tomorrow after I have an opportunity to get the DSG to operating temp. I'm at 83k, and I beat the crap out this car daily.

I'll replace clutches when I get an LSD... full DSG rebuild at that time... probably get some forged gears from FFE while I'm at it. Plan on keeping this car longterm and revising the turbo setup every few years.
 

ce4

Ready to race!
subscribed as well as I'm in a similar boat as you. 13 DSG, no dsg tune, stratified stage 1. Did DSG fluid change 10k miles ago and get the shudder, especially when cold. On an incline or creeping, it's almost like really bad clutch slippage where the car feels like it wants to stall. I don't have any updated mounts except powerflex lca bushings (rear pos). Had the 034 dogbone insert but snapped the dogbone so that got removed.

Is vagcom/vcds required for clutch adaptation? Should I go to dealer to assist?
 

Jiffyjetta

Ready to race!
subscribed as well as I'm in a similar boat as you. 13 DSG, no dsg tune, stratified stage 1. Did DSG fluid change 10k miles ago and get the shudder, especially when cold. On an incline or creeping, it's almost like really bad clutch slippage where the car feels like it wants to stall. I don't have any updated mounts except powerflex lca bushings (rear pos). Had the 034 dogbone insert but snapped the dogbone so that got removed.

Is vagcom/vcds required for clutch adaptation? Should I go to dealer to assist?

Yeah, vcds is required. it makes a huge difference and should be done after every service, unfortunately it seems like not many shops do it. Also, I do dsg services pretty regularly at work and I've noticed something.
When you drain the fluid, and fill it from the bottom with the correct tool, it takes less fluid than was drained initially.
I don't know why this is, they're either over filled from the factory or the overflow tube in the fill hole is too short.
When I do the service, I drain the fluid into a oil jug and measure the exact amount I removed and fill it from the top. This takes longer but will it gets the same amount that was in it from the factory.
 

tkelly0727

Ready to race!
I noticed your tuned my stratified along with IE DSG tune. I had the the same setup with similar mounts (034 SD mounts, HPA red Puck) i had the same issues your having where throttle response was iffy at time leaving from a complete stop it was not smooth. Id say half has to do the the subframe mounts which doesn't allow for much movement. so the NVH with the addition with the DSG already being a little jerky can make it feel like that and also tune plays apart of that also. ( that's the reason i got rid of my 034 pendulum mount).


Having said all that i had the opportunity to change tune and now im IE stage 2 that's paired with their DSG tune. now that issue you, others and I have experienced have went away 95%. i say that because i still experience a little jerk when leaving a stop but only if im sitting in traffic for hours,( i have a DSG service coming up, i will also likely replace my DSG oil cooler also) even then its not as frequent when i was Stratified tuned. yeah sure i may loose a few HP, which would be marginal but the benefits greatly outweighs the negative. throttle response has been greatly improved, power delivery is a lot more linear, honestly feels like it pulls a bit harder in the higher RPM ranges than Strat did but with strat, boost kicks in hard and earlier. best of all with IE stg 2 there are still some burbles, noting crazy like Strat but its nice and mellow burbles.


I have no regrets, and love my car even more.
 

ce4

Ready to race!
Yeah, vcds is required. it makes a huge difference and should be done after every service, unfortunately it seems like not many shops do it. Also, I do dsg services pretty regularly at work and I've noticed something.
When you drain the fluid, and fill it from the bottom with the correct tool, it takes less fluid than was drained initially.
I don't know why this is, they're either over filled from the factory or the overflow tube in the fill hole is too short.
When I do the service, I drain the fluid into a oil jug and measure the exact amount I removed and fill it from the top. This takes longer but will it gets the same amount that was in it from the factory.

I drained and filled from the bottom too on my last change and noticed that I didn't put that much back in either. I'll have to check that on my next change, if not sooner if this shuddering doesn't stop.
 

ce4

Ready to race!
See below. I might be willing to try this... nothing required for DSG adaptation. I'm skeptical but why not?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5KD7LyQnqg

Just watched the video and seems to easy. Comments appear to have a mix of skeptics and ppl saying it worked. I'm curious to know if this works as well. One comment says the the car needs to be at operating temp for it to work. I question this because based off the instructions, you don't even start it till the end of the sequence:

1. put the ignition on
2. press down on the accelerator pedal for more than 10 sec
3. switch off the ignition then release the pedal
4. remove the key
5. press down on the accelerator pedal for more than 10 sec
6. release the pedal
7. start the car
 

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
I noticed your tuned my stratified along with IE DSG tune. I had the the same setup with similar mounts (034 SD mounts, HPA red Puck) i had the same issues your having where throttle response was iffy at time leaving from a complete stop it was not smooth. Id say half has to do the the subframe mounts which doesn't allow for much movement. so the NVH with the addition with the DSG already being a little jerky can make it feel like that and also tune plays apart of that also. ( that's the reason i got rid of my 034 pendulum mount).


Having said all that i had the opportunity to change tune and now im IE stage 2 that's paired with their DSG tune. now that issue you, others and I have experienced have went away 95%. i say that because i still experience a little jerk when leaving a stop but only if im sitting in traffic for hours,( i have a DSG service coming up, i will also likely replace my DSG oil cooler also) even then its not as frequent when i was Stratified tuned. yeah sure i may loose a few HP, which would be marginal but the benefits greatly outweighs the negative. throttle response has been greatly improved, power delivery is a lot more linear, honestly feels like it pulls a bit harder in the higher RPM ranges than Strat did but with strat, boost kicks in hard and earlier. best of all with IE stg 2 there are still some burbles, noting crazy like Strat but its nice and mellow burbles.


I have no regrets, and love my car even more.

Thanks bro

I wouldn't mind running IE Stage 2 tune, but I can't ... no slight to IE they probably have the best ots Stage 2 tune. I'm running a modified stock turbo with a different wga so custom tuning is my only option.

Plan on going F23t or small BT end of year.
 

tkelly0727

Ready to race!
Thanks bro

I wouldn't mind running IE Stage 2 tune, but I can't ... no slight to IE they probably have the best ots Stage 2 tune. I'm running a modified stock turbo with a different wga so custom tuning is my only option.

Plan on going F23t or small BT end of year.


actually you can do data log and have them do custom tuning. i know they do the same if your added W/M,
 

Jiffyjetta

Ready to race!
Just watched the video and seems to easy. Comments appear to have a mix of skeptics and ppl saying it worked. I'm curious to know if this works as well. One comment says the the car needs to be at operating temp for it to work. I question this because based off the instructions, you don't even start it till the end of the sequence:



1. put the ignition on

2. press down on the accelerator pedal for more than 10 sec

3. switch off the ignition then release the pedal

4. remove the key

5. press down on the accelerator pedal for more than 10 sec

6. release the pedal

7. start the car
I haven't heard of doing that way, if it works thats awesome.
When you clear adaptation and relearn with vcds, I think there are 3 different things you can relearn. I don't remember off hand what they are called, but you will hear all kinds of scary noises, clunks, clicks and grinds while it goes through the gears.
 

DallasDub94

Go Kart Newbie
actually you can do data log and have them do custom tuning. i know they do the same if your added W/M,

I'd need a base tune (guarantee car would go straight into limp mode on their map) and to spend more $. It's more than few tweaks. Wga is x2+ base setting and turbo is ported with a larger compressor wheel.

Would still end up with mismatch with dsg tune at that point.

Maybe if I was local to them. I'm gonna be doing ethanol, wmi, everything when I get a larger turbo.
 
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