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Engine mounts talk to me...

fatvdub

Passed Driver's Ed
Im APR Stage 2 with supporting mods. Daily driven 78,000 miles, OG owner

I just bought the dog bone mount, insert and new pucks. looking to maybe replace both side mounts as well, if that's something else i should be thinking about. I believe the engine movement has caused my 42DD downpipe to crack at the flange.
What are your experiences with mounts and what's recomended?
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
I think if I was getting some I would do the 034 street. I'm still on stock stuff but I've had experience with other cars.

I did a racecar mount on a Mini a few years ago for a well known motorcycle racer. He made it to the end of the street before he called and said we were pulling it back off.
 

somerset9

Go Kart Newbie
The EA113 is very smooth. I have the 75A Torque Solution mount (a little stiffer as I think the 034 street and BFI mounts are 65A for Stage 1) and no complaints at all from NVH. With AC you do feel a little more and you do have to be deliberate when shifting. I would highly recommend.

The only thing is that while vibrations are very well dampened, engine braking and abruptly letting off the gas in 1st and 2nd will feel a little herky jerky, but worth the tradeoff I feel. Throttle response and just how the solid the car feels is very nice.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
I will doing BFI. I have a Neuspeed insert in at the moment and will pair that with an APR pendulum mount.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
I'm in a weird position because my car already had BSH mounts when I purchased it. No idea if they're good or bad, as I've never driven another Mk6. It doesn't feel shakier or louder than my last car, so I suppose they're all right.

I've heard from many that BFI's mounts are good, and I also like them because they're aesthetically pleasing. I know that's not a mount's job, but they're handsomely designed.
 

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
I have 15k miles on my 034 streets and no complaints. I'm ko4
Mounts are easy to do just have to move swirl ball on one side and I think battery on the other.
Put a jack under the oil pan and a large surface area piece of wood. Try to be on flat ground so it doesn't move too much.
Be careful as bolts are steel and the go into aluminum threads. I had to swap the bracket on the passenger side because I stripped them out trying to suck the motor up. I "think" iirc they torque to 85ftlbs.
 

DASVDUB

Drag Racing Champion
034 engine mounts are straight garbage. Better off buying OEM again. Plenty of examples on forums and FB of failed 034 mounts. BFI mounts ftw.
 

demon_GR

New member
I have a full set of RacingLine Engine/Tranny/Subframe mounts and have nothing but good things to say about it. Many folks report NVH being unbearable and to my experience I disagree.

I like the feel so far, shifts with a DSG are almost unnoticeable. Car is moderately tuned to stage 2 equivalent (ECU/TCU) and only on S mode does the NVH become noticeable. I have far less wheel lift from the front on a hard take-off as well, which I really love, and that also translates very well to cornering as the engine feels well planted to the chassis.

The only problem I had with RacingLine subframe mounts was the fail. it's serious. I got lucky and nothing major was damaged, but the end result of that puck was horrid. It was as if though someone tried to pry out the dogbone mount with a fork or a machete. I have never encountered a failed motor/tranny mount to that extent, so its worth to keep in mind.

RacingLine was very good to assist me on this and Scott in the UK actually offered me a free replacement which I didnt need because I had already purchased a whole new set of RacingLine Engine/Tran/Subframe mounts. I would have loved something else as replacement but what can I say.

I really do recommend this setup only IF: You mainly drive on your own, Really appreciate the feel of connection to the vehicle, Track your car, drive with people who dont care about the noise, and you dont mind the expense.
 
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TimS

Go Kart Newbie
I've been through a few setups, and what I've learned is that the pendulum mount system has the largest impact on NVH, but a lightweight flywheel can add to it and a Fluidampr can smooth it out quite a lot. The engine and gearbox mounts don't really seem to make transmit much vibration (or they don't add much NVH if your pendulum is already modified), and it makes sense - the vibrations in a transverse mounted engines are going to result in fore-aft motion.

I can go through all my iterations if anyone wants to hear about it, but my current setup is 034 street density engine and gearbox mounts, OEM subframe bushings with 034 billet upper and lower inserts, APR's pendulum mount, RSR clutch with OEM flywheel, and a Fluidampr. I get a little bit of vibration at idle with the A/C on, but otherwise you'd never notice anything.

I think if I decide to keep the car a few more years and can bring myself to spend 550 beer tokens on engine mounts, I'll switch to Vibra-Technics engine and trans mounts.
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
I've had BSH mounts for over ten years on my MK5 GTI w/K04. I can't compare them to others, but through the years there were those complaining about the NVH with their mounts by other brands. I didn't notice much difference with BSH...but there was some NVH increase. My VW tech noticed and mentioned it. But I did the mounts for reducing wheel hop. As I had first done the pendulum insert and W.A.L.K. and still had some hop. The mount set eliminated all hop.
 

Thumper

Autocross Champion
I've now got over 1000 miles on my BFI Stg2 mounts (factory pendulum with HPA puck upgrade) and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them but there is an increase in noise, not harshness or vibration, but there is a clear noise level increase. Not obscene IMHO, almost just sounds like a louder exhaust lol If I turn off the AC it goes away at a stop just as many report.

I know this is an old thread but to OP or the poster that resurrected it, if you are modified power, especially Stg2 or higher, engine mounts need to be upgraded without question.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Since last March, I've made a few changes. I put my car on the dyno and noticed during the runs that the engine was moving a hell of a lot, and afterward I was getting some nasty bucking getting on and off throttle, so the mounts were toasted. Hard to complain, I got 2 years and about 50k miles out of them on a stage 2 car.

I know I said I'd try Vibra Technics mounts next, but I found out that FCP Euro will let you replace a part under their lifetime warranty with a different product of the same part type, and pay the difference. Since I bought the Street Density mounts from FCP, I exchanged them for a set of 034's Tracksport mounts (billet aluminum with 65A durometer rubber bushings), and boy howdy - what I said before about the engine and trans mounts not transmitting much vibration wasn't entirely correct. Turns out I just hadn't had mounts stiff enough to make a difference, but I sure did now - even after the break-in period the chassis was now just a megaphone for engine vibrations through the entire rev range. Maybe someone else can live with that, but I couldn't.

Thanks to FCP's extremely generous warranty program, I was able to exchange them for 034's Streetsport mounts (same as the Tracksport but with 50A rubber) and they're much better. They've tightened up engine movement nicely, and NVH was tolerable even when they were new. Now that they're broken in, there's a little bit of vibration at idle with the A/C on, but that's all. They're smooth and quiet during normal driving.

In sum, I think I've finally found my ideal setup that balances performance, driveability, and comfort - 034 StreetSport billet engine and gearbox mounts, APR pendulum mount, OEM upper and lower subframe bushings with 034 billet upper and lower inserts, Fluidampr, and RSR clutch with OEM flywheel.
 

RRGOLFR

New member
034 dogbone insert has been great, no vibration or noise and greatly reduces drive line slop. apr stage 2+ , always wanted to try others but afraid of noise and vibration
 
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