Failing intake camshaft variable timing

[elcroato1]

My engine's intake timing is getting stuck at -36° when the engine is "cold". It only occurs when I put a load on the engine. If I let it warm up idling then it doesn't get stuck, but until then it can. I data logged the G40 sensor which shows this behavior:

Today I removed the actuator solenoid and manually pushed in the 3/4 way valve and noticed it would stick when fully open, but return if the engine was warm. When cold it just stays in the open position as shown below:

For reference, this is what the valve looks like closed:

Has this happened to anyone else? How hard was it to fix?

 

[ehancock]

The longer i have this car the longer i feel like i need to get out while i can lol.

This is pretty interesting, in for more info.

 

[mkv_martinez]

The longer i have this car the longer i feel like i need to get out while i can lol.

This is pretty interesting, in for more info.

same here. i plan on going back to stock and trading it for something more reliable as soon as financially possible. stage 1 is a ticking time bomb on these cars.

 

[truuuuuuuuu]

same here. i plan on going back to stock and trading it for something more reliable as soon as financially possible. stage 1 is a ticking time bomb on these cars.

Explain please...

 

[Austin_W]

same here. i plan on going back to stock and trading it for something more reliable as soon as financially possible. stage 1 is a ticking time bomb on these cars.

How is it a ticking time bomb?

 

[dave80]

Op had his timing chain tensioner replaced and his mechanic let the chain slip out of the timing. Not sure who timed the chain back to specs and if anythything else was damaged.

 

[barische]

subbed, good luck

 

[elcroato1]

Op had his timing chain tensioner replaced and his mechanic let the chain slip out of the timing. Not sure who timed the chain back to specs and if anythything else was damaged.

When the timing tensioner was originally intalled timing was thrown off by one spur on the chain sprocket. When I had the engine timed correctly by an independent VW shop I had all the chains(3), sprocket, guides, and tensioners replaced. The car runs great once it is warm. They don't think the current symptoms are related, but since I have last spoken with them I have discovered the above, so I'll see what they think and whether I can fix this on my own.

 

[elcroato1]

subbed, good luck

thanks

 

[elcroato1]

I'm going to replace the 3/4 valve. Has anyone else messed with one?

 

[elcroato1]

So I tried to remove the valve, but it won't come out, plus I damaged the mounting points on the valve. I used the special 3/8" drive socket tool that the dealer leant me. The valve has a left hand thread and I used as much force as I could muster (turning clockwise). I was afraid to go gung-ho as I didn't want to break the points in the socket, nor do damage to my engine. Can someone that has experience please help? For reference, the valve p/n is 06H 109 257A.
Here's the site I used for reference, also corroborated by my dealer: http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk5/index.php?id=6034

 

[elcroato1]

I managed to have the valve removed by a friend mechanic. He made it look easy, but it was definately tightened way beyond the VW recommended 35nm of torque. Once I get the replacement next week and install it I'll know for sure whether it's the reason for my problems. I'm confident it is. I also took it apart and cleaned it and did notice a few abrasion marks on the central piston part, so probably some dirt was lodged in there too.

 

[elcroato1]

This issue is resolved. I got a new 3/4 way valve and the newly revised solenoid. The valve is made by JNA as opposed to INA.

So beware... if your car is misfiring like hell and stalling and you log block 091 and your intake timing is pegged at -36 despite the ECU requesting otherwise -- you may have a faulty/stuck 3/4 way valve. P/N: 06H 109 257A.

Now I have to turn to my failing waterpump... It's making loud croaking noises, but that's another thread.