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GTI Sudden misfires - P0300/P130A & P0299 (w/ P1927)

kglewis1

New member
Hello all!

I have a 2011 GTI 6 speed with 183K miles on it. It has several standard mods with an APR stage 1 tune. I typically only use Shell gas, but I used ARCO the other night. After filling up my car, about a mile or two down the road the car started to get really rough like it was misfiring. The check engine light began flashing. I pulled over and changed my tune back to stock and tried to start it again. The car then started rough, and this time I could smell gas. I called up a tow truck to get the rest of the way home. When the driver showed up, he asked if I could drive the car up the ramp. This time, the car wouldn't start. After he took a minute looking around the engine bay, he jumped in and was able to start the car by holding the gas pedal down and cranking the engine. He said the engine was flooded.

The next day, I had the car checked with an AutoZone OBD2 scanner and no fault codes came up despite a check engine light. I decided to buy new plugs since I was due anyway. When I pulled the old plugs, there was black soot on all of them. I put the new plugs in and started up the car. Tah-Dah! Started up and purred perfectly. For about 20 seconds. Then it began jerking again and the check engine light began flashing, and gas could be smelled near the exhaust. I pulled the plugs and they were covered in black soot again, and there was clearly a smell of gas after pulling each plug. Now I was fairly worried, so I called up a buddy of mine and had him bring over his VAGCOM cable...

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels:. 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AP HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH18--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A18070160
Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200
VCID: 74C93C8717B06F2D96-8020
VINID: 9E69D598745AA129C10830C604A1A1A4F1

5 Faults Found:
006439 - Relay for Aux Coolant Pump (J496)
P1927 - 000 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 290271 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.04.06
Time: 00:03:08

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1143 /min
Load: 4.7 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 96.0°C
Temperature: 59.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.811 V

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 17
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 290332 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.04.06
Time: 02:10:20

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2662 /min
Load: 62.7 %
Speed: 109.0 km/h
Temperature: 96.0°C
Temperature: 48.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.954 V

000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 295081 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.04.06
Time: 19:28:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2225 /min
Load: 36.5 %
Speed: 44.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: 17.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V

000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 295081 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.04.06
Time: 19:28:18

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2225 /min
Load: 36.5 %
Speed: 44.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: 17.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V

004874 - Cylinder Disabling
P130A - 000 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 295081 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.04.06
Time: 20:01:35

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1385 /min
Load: 40.8 %
Speed: 4.0 km/h
Temperature: 78.0°C
Temperature: 27.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


So the first thing we did was pull out a burned up 5A fuse and replaced it. This removed the Aux coolant pump error. I also swapped the PCV(old spare in questionable condition) and coil packs(R8 to OM) just to rule them out, and they seemed fine. I hooked up my air compressor to my turbo inlet and checked for a boost leak. While I couldn't find a leak, and it's been awhile since I tested for boost leaks, I had a feeling that air was escaping the system too quickly. Most of the air was gone in about 20 or so seconds. I also realized that by checking for a boost leak, I believe I pushed gas into my oil, although it's possible some could have already been there.

SO here I am. My though process is that it could be something with the intake manifold, throttle body, carbon build up, or the ECU. I think the ECU is reading lean and dumping gas, but I really don't know. It may also be the turbo, which wouldn't be surprising either. I was hoping for some insight before I go ripping apart the intake manifold. Thanks in advance!
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Fuel injector failure is a very common issue. It will cause a misfire in the affected cylinder, rough running engine and strong fuel smell in the exhaust with smoke. Usually though if you pull the plug you can see the plug wet with gas if they get stuck open but you'll def smell in the fuel in the cylinder as well. I've both had and not had the low fuel pressure code with failed injectors before. I'm betting on Cyl 4 having a bad injector. If you end up replacing it might as well do them all since I've had multiple start failing after 120k miles and its not fun taking the intake manifold back off again.


Also your p0299 prob isn't related since it happened several thousand km earlier according to the vcds readout. Id just clear it for now and monitor if it comes back after fixing your other issue. That code can be caused by multiple different things and it could just be an isolated fluke.
 
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kglewis1

New member
Thanks for the reply!

Since getting to the injectors requires removing the intake manifold, I assume I should just replace this with the revised version. While I'm at it, a carbon cleaning and throttle body cleaning are in order.

While diagnosing fuel injectors is kind of out of the question, is there a way to tell if the intake manifold is bad? I've been reading that the runner flaps tend to go out in some fashion. I also read somewhere that after cleaning out the throttle body, one should do something in VCDS after. Would the APR stage 1 tune be able to do this since it was some throttle body recalibration feature?

When I was putting away my boost leak tester, I noticed quite a bit of oil on it. I know the PCV valve vents oil fumes back into the turbo inlet, but should there be actual oil there? I don't recall actual oil being present last time I boost tested, however it has been some time.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Usually youll get the P2015 when you have a bad manifold. They have a few ways of failing but really the only visual way you'll see a bad intake manifold is if the flapper arm breaks or pops out causing a vacuum leak and you'll get misfires too. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it if you want but its not the end of the world if you don't. I've never cleaned the throttle body when removing the intake manifold. It usually looks fairly clean and id rather not mess with it. There is some vcds force throttle body adaptation feature but ive never had to do it when reinstalling the intake manifold iirc the car does it automatically.
 

kglewis1

New member
Finally had a chance to open up the car to install the replacement parts and clean out some carbon!

I noticed that two of the intake partitions are damaged. I wouldn't think the damage is critical, but I figured I'd get some thoughts on it.

20230122_122052.jpg



On the middle partition to the left side you can see that one of the pins is broken. It fits into the gasket on the intake manifold. Two of the partitions have one pin broken.
 

kglewis1

New member
I got everything put back together and the car is still misfiring. There is some minor white smoke coming out of the back now, may or may not be related to the carbon cleaning. I also swapped the fuel filter before attempting a start. I'll check to see if codes changed hopefully this weekend.

Edit: There's significant white smoke now.

Edit 2: Cylinder 4 still isn't firing. I have gas on the spark plug. I unplugged the fuel injector on 4 and there didn't seem to be much change when I started it. Ruled out the plug and coil pack. A new injector should rule an injector issue out.
 
Last edited:

kglewis1

New member
I compression checked each cylinder today. I'm at 160 psi across the board.

Next up is to check for spark I suppose. After that, I'll drain out the gas?
 

kglewis1

New member
Did you replace the injector?
I did, I replaced all 4 with some aftermarkets from ECS.

Edit: Just to clarify, I replaced all the injectors one time. I was considering swapping the injectors into different places, but the likelihood for getting and installing a faulty part into the same place seemed unlikely, but never impossible.
 
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vwgrs

New member
Interested to see if you ever got this fixed. Have the same exact symptoms with no luck in fixing it. One time my car went into Limp mode after Jerking harshly while pulling onto the highway. Was in an area with no cell coverage & went through basically an entire tank of gasoline in about 20 miles before I was in an area where I could get a tow.

Started happening after I had the motor out:
Southbend Clutch Kit, billet rear main seal, billet transmission mount
Full timing kit (OEM)
Water Pump with Aluminum internals
IE Highflow Downpipe

In attempt to fix the problem I have replaced:
HPFP (OEM)
Coils & Plugs (OEM)
PCV (OEM)
Turbo Inlet Coupler (OEM)

Codes Thrown:
Throttle codes: P2101, P0638, P0221
Fuel Codes: P0172, P2293, P12A1
Misfire Codes: P0300, P0304, P0303, P0302, P0301 (All Cylinders Misfiring)
Other Codes: P0420 (Due to High Flow Cat), P0507 P0101 (MAF Codes?)
 

kglewis1

New member
I just got the car back. Eventually I had to take it to the shop. It ended up that injector 4 was replaced but continued to leak. The leak was confirmed via scope. The timing chain was -4.11 degrees off and needed to be replaced, which is recommended anyway due to the factory tensioner fail rate. The shop found a loose vacuum hose but I'm fairly certain this was a result of my work and not present in the initial diagnosis. In addition, the gas from Arco was suspected to be bad and needed to be drained.

Overall, the initial diagnosis provided here was correct.
 

vw1300

New member
Thank you for following up - I'm starting to see similar symptoms so I'm reading these threads carefully. Just to be clear - you had to replace the #4 injector twice until you got one that didn't leak? That's pretty annoying.
 
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