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HYDE16 Reviews - ECS 6-Speed Clutch Bleeder Block

elcroato1

Passed Driver's Ed
Fair enough, but would you still not have to crack the bleeder valve on the ECS block very slightly to let the air out from the line?
If I'm understanding you correctly, yes, after pumping the clutch pedal you'd have to open the bleeder valve to purge the air and old fluid. Nafljhy has brought up an interesting point though. It could be the check valve is indeed working and the air is instead entering the system due to the line from the master cylinder running dry upon pumping the clutch too much.
 

Cryptic19111

Go Kart Champion
yes, you have someone pump and then hold the pedal down to keep pressure, and crack the bleeder. fluid and air will come out. Keep doing that til there's no air.

you MUST keep the level high in the master cylinder when doing this. Every time you let fluid out, the level drops, and there's just a little slit way up at the top of the master cylinder where it sucks in fluid for the clutch system. If it drops below that at any time, it will suck air in. It doesn't pull out the bottom like the brakes do. That's where most people get screwed up bleeding the clutch
 

CobraKing

Ready to race!
elcroato, nafljhy and Cryptic thanks for all the tips. I'll be using a Motive Power bleeder to keep the lines pressurized and I'll be sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped up at all times.
 

JT641

Banned
The loss of the restrictor inside of the housine allows for more fluid which will have a small impact on the reduction of lag between shifts.

Remedied by a Sprint Booster?

Had one these on my car (still have it) but took it off because it was much harder to modulate the throttle input especially when I'm in 100oct mode. Although I might try it out again with the ECS bleeder block?

nope, effort stays the same, engagement feels smoother and the pedal releases faster.

Just the answer I was looking for, The one problem that I've been having is that when I try to shift to fast it's like the clutch won't disengage because it's not letting me shift to the next gear, So this will get rid of that??
 

TKE Mario

Ready to race!
How prone is this OEM one to leaking?

How about the ECS one (the newest revised version), has anyone reported any leaks after installing it correctly?

currently debating between simply modifying the OEM one or purchasing the ECS one
I have no issues with with mine, just want to improve clutch feedback, and if I can save $120 in the process than :thumbsup:
 

mamock116

Ready to race!
Just to report, I modified the OEM one by just pulling out the little restrictor piece. Pedal feel is much better. Also the clutch engages and disengages faster which will help on track days.
 

Stage2Sasquatch

Go Kart Champion
Just to add, almost everyone does this on Golf MK7. Most everyone reports great results like better pedal feel/faster shifting etc.
 

aw6141

Go Kart Champion
Just to report, I modified the OEM one by just pulling out the little restrictor piece. Pedal feel is much better. Also the clutch engages and disengages faster which will help on track days.

I did the same on Friday and finally got some decent driving time without that little restrictor piece, the pedal is a lot more consistent and it feels a lot better in traffic.

I wonder if that small piece was causing all the clutch wear on the stock clutches that were tuned...
 

brobst

Go Kart Champion
Got 4 options here so I want you guys suggestion.
I plan to have this done when I have a shop do my clutch job. So which of these choices makes the most sense?
1) have the shop modify the oem one?
2) buy a replacement oem one (half price ecs one) and modify it myself. Have shop install this part.
3) buy ecs one and have shop install new part.
4) find a buddy to help me do this modify process in the driveway. (I was just worried about the bleeding process since I've never done that before)

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