HYDE16 Reviews - TyrolSport DeadSet Rigid Rear Subframe Collar Kit

[Mike@TyrolSport]

Great questions, DopeDPanda. :thumbsup: You must be an engineering student or engineer.

Here is a material spec sheet: http://www.morganbronze.com/pdf_files/954_spec.pdf

The options we considered viable were;

mild steel (cheaper, no corrosion protection)
Coated mild(hot black oxide, etc.) (still cheaper, but not as good as the other choices in corrosion)
stainless steel (more expensive, great corrosion, more difficulty machining)
titanium(would be priced too high)
Bronze(Best compromise of performance, price, manufacuring). Has the best lubricity out of any of the above choices.

Let us know what you would have chosen, knowing that the subframe is a coated mild steel.

While you are correct on the Anode/Cathode, a small dab of grease or anti-seize compound will mitigate any consequences.

Mike@tyrolsport.com

 

[dopedpanda]

Great questions, DopeDPanda. :thumbsup: You must be an engineering student or engineer.

Here is a material spec sheet: http://www.morganbronze.com/pdf_files/954_spec.pdf

The options we considered viable were;

mild steel (cheaper, no corrosion protection)
Coated mild(hot black oxide, etc.) (still cheaper, but not as good as the other choices in corrosion)
stainless steel (more expensive, great corrosion, more difficulty machining)
titanium(would be priced too high)
Bronze(Best compromise of performance, price, manufacuring). Has the best lubricity out of any of the above choices.

Let us know what you would have chosen, knowing that the subframe is a coated mild steel.

While you are correct on the Anode/Cathode, a small dab of grease or anti-seize compound will mitigate any consequences.

Mike@tyrolsport.com

Not an engineer by a long shot, and probably never will be, back broken mechanic though with a high interrest in keeping his vehicle in prestige condition :happyanim:

Im not sure what i would pick to be honest, im not into all the prices and such (hence the question in the first place for you to answer )

But if you say its coated mild steel, it doesn´t matter as much though, as the coating will be barrier between the dissimilar materials (as far as i could read it was only galvanized, i guess its not what you mean by coating) Come to think about it, sub frame is alu, so they must use some sort of anti corrosion coating as galvanized just speeds up that process.

Guess i have to be patient with the long term grease then ^^

 

[BillyBob]

I suppose the proof would be in the pudding. If anyone has their sub frame dropped after having this kit in for a while, please let us know if anything weird is happening.
Thank you for putting this out there, Panda. It makes me worried, yet feels good knowing it's out there.

 

[HYDE161]

I am actually at TyrolSport today and just ran underneath the car to take photos of the rear subframe kit. As you can see, being driven year round, the rear control arms have their outer coating rusted up pretty well. As for the actual subframe where the rear subframe collars are located, barely any rust, if any (obviously happening at a much much slower rate vs. the OEM components).

 

[TheCastle]

I know this is a sleeping thread.... I have a couple of questions....

1) does the rear dead set kit work if you have a hitch? I have a curt hitch on my car for bike racks and some of the mounting points are shared with the rear subframe.

2) what are the part numbers for the rear subframe stretch bolts?

One last one. Anyone with the rear dead set kit care to give a review, especially if you've had it a while?

 

[Aphix]

Ha, Im reviving a sleeping thread too. It's still relevant and the only one I could find..

So I have rear subframe offset on the right and looking for a fix to center and to complete this with my front collar kit.

My thoughts are, depending on how the frame and subframe holes are machined, this could help line up the holes and center things, removing the right side offset. I have two questions:

1. Am I correct that this wheel offset is generally caused by the subframe being off?
2. Has anyone installed this and had noticeable off set fixed or created after install?

It's a gamble but tempted to try it unless I get convincing feedback.

thanks

 

[thegave]

Someone explained to me once that the collars take out the adjustment in the rear subframe and it is possible that the locked position may still not be perfectly centered, in which case you are SOL.

Try it and let us know!

 

[Aphix]

that's exactly right and the point I made above. The centering entirely depends on the machining of the frame and subframe - simply put, if the holes aren't precise, its going to be off when adding the collars. I know this because it happened with my front collars.

Still, I see the benefit of these, and tempted to try. I may try dropping the rear subframe too and just aligning myself.. but of course it's not locked and can slide.

 

[skotcoop]

Have you by chance compared these to the 034 motorsports subframe lock kit?

 

[HYDE161]

Have you by chance compared these to the 034 motorsports subframe lock kit?

No, and I will not. While I support 034 with their products, TyrolSport was first to market with these. They spent the time, money and R&D to provide these to the market place.

 

[skotcoop]

No, and I will not. While I support 034 with their products, TyrolSport was first to market with these. They spent the time, money and R&D to provide these to the market place.

Oh gotcha. They do look a bit nicer than the 034. Also while I spend quite a bit of time reading your build thread and multiple reviews and may have missed it but what was the reason for switching from the APR intake to the unitronic? At first I couldn't decide which to go with but ended up getting the APR but now wish I bought the unitronic. I probably would have if they were not out of stock. Last question, are you running the stock dogbone mount? I'm a little confused with all the different mount options but we share the same mindset in terms of what we want for our cars. Very little NVH but power when wanted as this is also my daily.

 

[HYDE161]

Oh gotcha. They do look a bit nicer than the 034. Also while I spend quite a bit of time reading your build thread and multiple reviews and may have missed it but what was the reason for switching from the APR intake to the unitronic? At first I couldn't decide which to go with but ended up getting the APR but now wish I bought the unitronic. I probably would have if they were not out of stock. Last question, are you running the stock dogbone mount? I'm a little confused with all the different mount options but we share the same mindset in terms of what we want for our cars. Very little NVH but power when wanted as this is also my daily.

I run 034 street density engine and trans top side mounts. The subframe mount is in the center of the subframe where the doggone arm connects to. I have the Racingline (VWR) upper and lower subframe mount (2 pucks). I even added a VibraTech bushing within the doggone arm. Other than that TyrolSport headset kits in the front and rear.

As for the intake, Uni has a true 3" intake pipe design to the turbo inlet. I like the open air filter element better.

 

[skotcoop]

I run 034 street density engine and trans top side mounts. The subframe mount is in the center of the subframe where the doggone arm connects to. I have the Racingline (VWR) upper and lower subframe mount (2 pucks). I even added a VibraTech bushing within the doggone arm. Other than that TyrolSport headset kits in the front and rear.

As for the intake, Uni has a true 3" intake pipe design to the turbo inlet. I like the open air filter element better.

The VWR pucks dont have too much NVH for a daily? I just ordered my tyrol front and rear subframe locks and the shift bushings. Next up is the diesel geeks short shift kit, clutch, engine and tranny mounts. Possibly H&R fsb.

 

[HYDE161]

The VWR pucks dont have too much NVH for a daily? I just ordered my tyrol front and rear subframe locks and the shift bushings. Next up is the diesel geeks short shift kit, clutch, engine and tranny mounts. Possibly H&R fsb.

Not at all, the VWR subframe mount is less NVH than the HPA puck.

 

[skotcoop]

Not at all, the VWR subframe mount is less NVH than the HPA puck.

What about the 034 pucks? I thought I read that you had those.