I’ve used LiquiMoly Leichtlauf and/or Synthoil for all my DIY oil changes and it’s been good. Granted, I’ve never had the oil analyzed but my engine seems fine. I recently bought Amsoil European spec 5w-40 oil to try soon. It could be another option to add to your list
FarmScience. Awesome. I'll make that an alternate, I do like that they make a 0w-40 for winter, it sometimes gets to 16F here and regularly in the 20s. Some previous videos from them a couple years back made me question them, as it all seemed very "As seen on TV....but wait, there's MORE." which always puts me off.
The poll is showing MolyGen as pretty popular, and it's available from the usual suspects so I just ordered it. I will change it out next weekend and do an analysis after 3k miles, then change to Motul and do another analysis. Maybe do AMSOIL after that since they mention low shear as one of their high points.
Here's a question for those using MolyGen, it looks like the stuff comes out the same color it goes in.......anyone have any issues recycling the oil? LOL I can just imagine the guy's face at the auto parts store when he starts dumping green liquid into his oil tank.
Here's a question for those using MolyGen, it looks like the stuff comes out the same color it goes in.......anyone have any issues recycling the oil? LOL I can just imagine the guy's face at the auto parts store when he starts dumping green liquid into his oil tank.
No, I've pretty much exclusively used CASTROL or MOBIL1. I've done almost 60k miles on this car. Change interval has always been 3-5k. I usually add about half a quart between changes due to oil burning off.
Chain stretch is known to be exacerbated by oil starvation so it is always best to err on the side of caution with the oil level in these cars.
But yeah CASTROL has been just fine for me lately. I honestly just grab a 5qt whenever they're on sale at walmart. It is ridiculously cheap. Sometimes $17-$18 for the 5 qt.
Always use OEM filters. I go to the dealer and grab one along with a new crush washer any time I'm doing a change.
Ok, Joe says AMSOIL is liquid Unobtainium so it is defeintly going in my testing cycle.
I have always used OEM filters, once I used a WIX in the Touareg as the dealer was out of stock and I had not planned ahead so had to grab one from O'Reilly before a trip. I figured I'm going to be sending stuff off for analysis anyway so will be trying the K&N filter in the R this next oil change which has been weather delayed. Next change will have an OEM which shouldn't skew my results for oil as I am mostly interested in shear.
Ok, Joe says AMSOIL is liquid Unobtainium so it is defeintly going in my testing cycle.
I have always used OEM filters, once I used a WIX in the Touareg as the dealer was out of stock and I had not planned ahead so had to grab one from O'Reilly before a trip. I figured I'm going to be sending stuff off for analysis anyway so will be trying the K&N filter in the R this next oil change which has been weather delayed. Next change will have an OEM which shouldn't skew my results for oil as I am mostly interested in shear.
But if you used a Purolator for your cars entire life I would be absolutely shocked if it didn't end up with serious issues.
Cheapo filters can unexpectedly degrade and break up and it doesn't take much at all to clog the oil channels in these cars (see cam bridge screen blow out).
I have a Purolator oil filter sitting on the shelf. When I bought oil for my wife's MINI it came with a free filter, so I picked the Purolator. The box says Purolator, but the filter itself is a Mann filter. Matches my other Mann filters perfectly.
