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Let's talk about the Koni Yellows/Sport install. . .

MrFancypants

Autocross Newbie
Having had a lot of Konis, and also installed for lots of other people, I've never had these issues as that member did.
Use the correct parts and it's all good.
Yeah, I don’t really understand how people could have such dramatically different experiences with Konis. If someone said they didn’t like how they perform, I get that... they are on the budget end of performance struts.

If the ride quality is excessively harsh or there’s a rake issue there’s something else going on. When installed and adjusted correctly the ride should be smooth and the rake should be set by the coil springs.
 

Cal2000

Ready to race!
My Eibach ProKit springs came with four new bumpstops, all shortened compared to stock. The new rear bumpstops are significantly shorter. With how important bumpstops are to how these cars handle and ride I think every aftermarket lowering spring kit needs to include a set of bumpstops designed to work with the coil springs.

Anyway, if you're lowering the car the bumpstops absolutely need to be shorter than stock, because the stock ones are so long if you lower the car an inch you'll be resting on them and your ride will be absolutely terrible (super bouncy). Better yet, you could just buy new bumpstops that are the appropriate length.

Read here for more, with parts numbers...

https://changegears.wordpress.com/2011/08/25/shorter-oem-bump-stops-euro-bump-stop/
Great info. Thanks!
 

passportportal

New member
I just wrestled with my front koni yellow kit and still couldn't get it seated properly. Might have to pull it all apart and do the trimming. I wonder why they have this problem.

I fully agree with OP that they should be completely seated in the hub, just as the stock suspension was that I pulled out.

I guess I will be pulling it all apart again tomorrow
 

AM407

Ready to race!
I just wrestled with my front koni yellow kit and still couldn't get it seated properly. Might have to pull it all apart and do the trimming. I wonder why they have this problem.

I fully agree with OP that they should be completely seated in the hub, just as the stock suspension was that I pulled out.

I guess I will be pulling it all apart again tomorrow

You can if you like, but I wouldn’t worry about it. Even if there is a gap of a few mm at the bottom, the strut is still fully clamped.

Mine have been like that for at least five years now since I installed them - no issues.

I assume Koni knew what they were doing when they designed them, and that’s how Koni intended for them to sit. There’s no real reason they need to touch the bottom.

Seems like Koni is using the bolt hole as their reference point for installation, while the OE VW part uses the base of the hub assembly. As long as the spring perch ends up at the same height, the end result is the same.

On an aftermarket strut that’s possibly going to be used in a few different applications, it’s probably easier for Koni to weld on a locating tab with a hole in the proper place, rather than adjusting the spring perch or strut length by a few mm for each different application.
 

MrFancypants

Autocross Newbie
I just wrestled with my front koni yellow kit and still couldn't get it seated properly. Might have to pull it all apart and do the trimming. I wonder why they have this problem.

I fully agree with OP that they should be completely seated in the hub, just as the stock suspension was that I pulled out.

I guess I will be pulling it all apart again tomorrow
I had one side that was a little stubborn when I installed new spindles recently. I gave the spindle some gentle persuasion with a 3 lb sledge and I got the bolt tab to line up properly. There’s still that tiny bit where it doesn’t go down all the way, but I run my car on the track and it’s not an issue.

Ideally you would use a deadblow rather than a sledge, but for whatever reason I don’t have one.
 
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