GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV
  • Hey all, welcome to GolfMK6, the 6th gen GOLF site which includes the Golf, GTI and other Golf derivations.

    Your moderators here are: GTI2007, bubuski, danielj, Bender, Grambles423, Merkle and SayaGTI

    Administrators are JJ-R32 and Gulfer

    Please feel free to contact the administrators of this forum for site feedback, registration problems or other inquiries by using the "Contact Us" link at the bottom of any page or forum (http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/sendmessage.php )

    _____________________________________


    The board administration and its moderators at golfmk6.com ask that our members follow a few basic rules in order to ensure a friendly atmosphere. Failure to do so may result in a violation. Violations will be reviewed on a case-by-case basis and may result in warnings or expulsion from the forums. This will be decided upon at the discretion of the board administration and its moderators. Contributing members are encouraged to report any violations and make recommendations regarding our site.

    The Code of Conduct is as follows:

    1. Trolling, flaming, and bashing are not acceptable at golfmk6.com. Trolling includes, but is not limited to posting controversial messages with the intention of baiting other users into an argumentative response. Flaming includes, but is not limited to insulting and hostile interaction between users. Bashing, likewise, is also not permitted. All communications are to remain on a respectful and mature level. Do not retaliate to an inappropriate post with another inappropriate post. Instead use the "Report post to moderator" button, or simply PM your moderators if such an instance should arise.

    2. No tolerance is given for racist and derogatory remarks.

    3. Respect your moderators. The moderators are volunteers and avid Volkswagen fans who graciously donate their time to golfmk6.com. This online community would not be possible without their assistance.

    4. Accessing or attempting to access another members account is prohibited. Purposeful invasion of a forum members privacy is also prohibited.

    5. Members are to have only one username. Creating an additional username after expulsion from the site will result in blocking the user's IP address.

    6. Nudity of any type is not permitted within the forums. This includes the Off-Topic forums. Threads with adult content are to be posted in the "OFF-TOPIC" forum and must contain "NWS" in the thread title as a courtesy to other members. Forums outside of the Off-Topic forums are to maintain a G Rating.

    7. All posts are to be related to the topic of the thread they are discussed within. Post that are off-topic of the original post are subject to being deleted.

    8. Signatures must be of appropriate length. Signature photos and graphics must also be kept minimal in size.

    9. Spamming is not allowed. Advertisements are not allowed without the explicit permission of the administration. Please contact the administrators for more details on becoming a golfmk6.com sponsor.

    10. Illegal use of copyrighted or trademarked material is not permitted. This includes linking and/or discussions related to obtaining illegal distributions.

    11. In addition to the aforementioned rules, questionable or undesirable content deemed inappropriate by the administration or the moderators will be subject to review on a case-by-case basis.

    __________________________________________


    Vendor and Solicitation Threads


    Administrators are JJ-R32 and Gulfer

    Please contact the administrators for more details on becoming a golfmk6.com sponsor or vendor by using the "Contact Us" link at the bottom of any page or forum (http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/sendmessage.php )

    Golfmk6.com prohibits the advertising and solicitation of products and/or services from businesses and/or their agents without prior consent from one of the Administrators of this forum. Please PM an Administrator for clarification or permission BEFORE starting a thread or listing a business in your signature. Audits are randomly done and bans and citations will be given to violators of this rule. Each citation is reviewed on a case-by-case basis by the site administrators and moderators.

    Violating vendors of the rules below may receive a forum ban.

    1. Vendor advertisements Threads are to be posted in the Vendor Classifieds forum. Threads announcing promotions and discounts should be placed in the Vendor Classifieds forum. Cross-posting a thread announcing promotions and discounts across multiple forums is considered spamming and is prohibited.
    • New product announcement threads can go in the applicable forum, but sales of the product should go in the vendor forum.
    2. Vendors are allowed to organize Group Buys by initiating a thread in the Vendor Classifieds forum. Cross-posting a Group Buy thread across multiple forums is considered spamming and is prohibited.

    3. Signatures Advertisements are allowed but we ask to keep it of appropriate length. We also ask to add information on your signature line stating the company you work for, etc., so golfmk6 members know you are a vendor.

    4. Golfmk6.com members who choose to rate sellers in classified threads must post with a FIRST-HAND and FACTUAL account of a transaction and/or product. If for any unfortunate reason you must post a negative experience, please***GOLFMK6 MEMBERS PLEASE READ (Technical Forums)***


    The technical threads have become much more argumentative lately. Although this forum is relatively new, members have approached me regarding the direction some threads seem to head. As usual, posts will be reviewed on a case by case basis.

    When a thread involves a discussion regarding a particular product or company that you may not be in support of, you are expected to post responsibly/maturely if you choose to comment in such a thread. Failure to do so and you will be subject to infraction and/or ban.

    In regards to the ban: The initial ban might be for two weeks, followed by a chance to come back to the forums with a better attitude. If you choose not to change the intent of your post, then you will be permanently banned.
    Simple as that.

    Take care and enjoy the forum.
  • Has your username changed as part of the site merger and want it changed back? If the other version of your username isn't being used, send Gulfer a PM and we can probably fix it for you

MASTER CLUTCH APPLICATION GUIDE - WHAT DO WE REALLY NEED?

Das Bear

Passed Driver's Ed
Anyone tried the ringer-racing clutch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm using their kit right now. I'll have to go back and look at which series it was. I'm running a Frankenturbo F23T with all bolt ons and it's handling power fine, both on the street and at the track.

One issue, though, and I'm not sure if it's the product or the install, but occasionally it's difficult to pull the shifter out of and into first and second gear. Feels like the clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I've read it could be due to a weak slave cylinder or a bad clutch alignment tool.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

Jared32

Ready to race!
Would you recommend it? I'm looking at it pretty seriously. Does it chatter much? Do you have stock flywheel or single mass


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Das Bear

Passed Driver's Ed
I have the single mass that came in the kit. They use a modified Clutchmasters kit, so it's the CM single mass.

The chatter is definitely noticeable, but I'm not sure how it compares to other kits. My car is built more in mind for the track, so I didn't take NVH into consideration at all.

I'd definitely recommend the kit, but no word on how long they last just yet. Its grab and pedal feel is similar to stock. I hear the CM FX450 kits last only 10-15k miles and these supposedly will last at least double is what I've heard. I'd buy an OEM clutch alignment tool and the metal single piece throw out bearing instead of what they supply.

The issues that I'm having with the shifter are most likely the LSD install.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

Jared32

Ready to race!
I have the single mass that came in the kit. They use a modified Clutchmasters kit, so it's the CM single mass.

The chatter is definitely noticeable, but I'm not sure how it compares to other kits. My car is built more in mind for the track, so I didn't take NVH into consideration at all.

I'd definitely recommend the kit, but no word on how long they last just yet. Its grab and pedal feel is similar to stock. I hear the CM FX450 kits last only 10-15k miles and these supposedly will last at least double is what I've heard. I'd buy an OEM clutch alignment tool and the metal single piece throw out bearing instead of what they supply.

The issues that I'm having with the shifter are most likely the LSD install.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


That's good to know thanks for the input!
 

JT641

Banned
The issues that I'm having with the shifter are most likely the LSD install.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Were did you come up with the idea it might be the LSD install? (I have a Wavetrac LSD) Reason I ask is I sometimes have problems shifting up or down like I'm hitting a wall, going to be installing the ECS Tuning Clutch Bleeder, APR shifter cable bracket and Fluidampr and see if that helps.
 

Das Bear

Passed Driver's Ed
Were did you come up with the idea it might be the LSD install? (I have a Wavetrac LSD) Reason I ask is I sometimes have problems shifting up or down like I'm hitting a wall, going to be installing the ECS Tuning Clutch Bleeder, APR shifter cable bracket and Fluidampr and see if that helps.
I don't think it's the LSD itself but the process of it. The shop working on the trans broke a pin that held the shift tower and had to replace it.

I was able to eventually get it shifting okay, but after putting the ECS bleeder block on a few days back, it's like my clutch isn't disengaging again. The car vibrates and moves forward in first gear from a stop and I can't shift in or out if gears easily.

I've power bled it myself and had my dealership do it and the problem is still there. Bad slave maybe?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

JT641

Banned
I don't think it's the LSD itself but the process of it. The shop working on the trans broke a pin that held the shift tower and had to replace it.

I was able to eventually get it shifting okay, but after putting the ECS bleeder block on a few days back, it's like my clutch isn't disengaging again. The car vibrates and moves forward in first gear from a stop and I can't shift in or out if gears easily.

I've power bled it myself and had my dealership do it and the problem is still there. Bad slave maybe?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
That's weird!!!:confused: I hope mine doesn't do that. Should be getting it done along with the rest of those other items in the next couple weeks I'll post results after it's done
 

K.SOZE

New member
Would you recommend it? I'm looking at it pretty seriously. Does it chatter much? Do you have stock flywheel or single mass


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you decided on a clutch kit? I just got the Ringer Racing Stage 4 kit. Have to install it but from the looks of it this thing is serious. Braided lines, CM high performance TOB, & nice beefy bleeder block.
 

K.SOZE

New member
Were did you come up with the idea it might be the LSD install? (I have a Wavetrac LSD) Reason I ask is I sometimes have problems shifting up or down like I'm hitting a wall, going to be installing the ECS Tuning Clutch Bleeder, APR shifter cable bracket and Fluidampr and see if that helps.
How are you liking the Wavetrac? Everyone usually does the Peloquin (Quaife for the UK'ers), so I figured might as well give the Wave a try...
 

JT641

Banned
Well after finally getting the ECS Clutch Bleeder Block installed along with a few other things & 46,500 miles my clutch is slipping again

Question is do I have to replace everything again The Flywheel, P.P. Disc, & Release Bearing. I have the SB stage 2 endurance with the SMF
 

kthor7031

Go Kart Champion
Well after finally getting the ECS Clutch Bleeder Block installed along with a few other things & 46,500 miles my clutch is slipping again

Question is do I have to replace everything again The Flywheel, P.P. Disc, & Release Bearing. I have the SB stage 2 endurance with the SMF
When I talked to Southbend, they recommend at least resurfacing the pressure plate and the flywheel. Particularly with the stage 2 endurance, since it is a little harsher on the components.

Depending how many times you wanna do the clutch, you could rebuild the current set as a back up and buy a new set for now.
 

JT641

Banned
When I talked to Southbend, they recommend at least resurfacing the pressure plate and the flywheel. Particularly with the stage 2 endurance, since it is a little harsher on the components.

Depending how many times you wanna do the clutch, you could rebuild the current set as a back up and buy a new set for now.
Where can I get just the pressure plate and clutch disc??


BTW Just got late word from the shop
We readjusted the shift linkage cables and re-pressure bled the clutch hydraulic line, then re-test drove. The clutch slip issue appears resolved at this time, holds power OK under load at this time
 

bmllr8

Ready to race!
Where can I get just the pressure plate and clutch disc??


BTW Just got late word from the shop
We readjusted the shift linkage cables and re-pressure bled the clutch hydraulic line, then re-test drove. The clutch slip issue appears resolved at this time, holds power OK under load at this time
This is disappointing to hear. My SB stage 2 goes in next week, though currently I am only Uni 1+. What stage are you running JT64?
 

JT641

Banned
Where can I get just the pressure plate and clutch disc??


BTW Just got late word from the shop
We readjusted the shift linkage cables and re-pressure bled the clutch hydraulic line, then re-test drove. The clutch slip issue appears resolved at this time, holds power OK under load at this time

This is disappointing to hear. My SB stage 2 goes in next week, though currently I am only Uni 1+. What stage are you running JT64?
Guess you didn't read all of my last post above ^^^ Going to pick it up shortly 65 miles there and back so I'll let you know how it's really doing later
here's my build thread you can see for yourself everything I have

http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46439
 

kthor7031

Go Kart Champion
Where can I get just the pressure plate and clutch disc??


BTW Just got late word from the shop
We readjusted the shift linkage cables and re-pressure bled the clutch hydraulic line, then re-test drove. The clutch slip issue appears resolved at this time, holds power OK under load at this time
You can get them direct from Southbend. If you are willing to have your car down for a little (Not very long), Southbend will rebuild everything for a pretty good price. They will resurface everything, re-balance it and even account for the material lost in resurfacing by giving you shims or a thicker clutch disk.
 

JT641

Banned
Where can I get just the pressure plate and clutch disc??


BTW Just got late word from the shop
We readjusted the shift linkage cables and re-pressure bled the clutch hydraulic line, then re-test drove. The clutch slip issue appears resolved at this time, holds power OK under load at this time

You can get them direct from Southbend. If you are willing to have your car down for a little (Not very long), Southbend will rebuild everything for a pretty good price. They will resurface everything, re-balance it and even account for the material lost in resurfacing by giving you shims or a thicker clutch disk.
Got car back from the shop clutch seems to be working ok But I can't say the same for the shifter it's way out of adjustment :( . So I guess I'm going to have to take it to someone else to get the shifter reajusted again

If have to replace the clutch I'll just get another kit of the same
 

JT641

Banned
Thanks, and yes you are correct. Hope you get everything else sorted out.
Thanks I do to Also Late in the day after getting back from the shop my car developed a bad boost leak I was winding It out through the gears to almost redline only managed to get to 3rd before something went. When I'm driving around town I can hear this hissing sound that get's worse the more gas I give it and driving on the highway is a no go as it bucks and jerks badly :(:( So as it stands right now my car is parked in my garage until I get the boost leak sorted :(:(
 

bmllr8

Ready to race!
I just had the South Bend Stage 2 Daily installed last week along with the ECS bleeder block and stainless clutch line. Here are my impressions so far:

• The new clutch system (all parts together) does allow for faster shifting than was possible with the stock clutch system. Whether this is just due to the new bleeder block or some combination of all three changes I don’t know.
• One gripe I had on the original clutch was that for me to be smooth accelerating from a complete stop, I had to rev the engine slightly more than I did with other cars I owned. I have found that the new clutch setup allows for smoother starts than I could do with the original clutch setup.
• The new clutch makes slightly more noise (especially from a stop) than the old setup, but it was nowhere as bad as I thought it might be given some users feedback on clutch chatter. Is it there? Yes, but it is really only noticeable to me when accelerating in 1st or 2nd gear with windows down and music off.

Overall, the clutch is performing as expected.
 

Short Bus

Go Kart Champion
• One gripe I had on the original clutch was that for me to be smooth accelerating from a complete stop, I had to rev the engine slightly more than I did with other cars I owned. I have found that the new clutch setup allows for smoother starts than I could do with the original clutch setup.
That's interesting, because my experience has been the opposite. I don't have to bring revs up at all (1500 RPMs, if that), just feed it the appropriate amount of throttle as I let out the clutch. When I'm trying to take off in a hurry without abusing the clutch I usually just feather the throttle at idle while engaging the clutch and then just stomp on the throttle when the clutch is fully engaged.
 
Top