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MK6 Golf R20

kevbass52

New member
Bought a 2013 Golf R a little over a month ago. Little over 100k miles on it.
Haven't done much other than basic maintenance and flushing the fluids; replaced the oil twice already as the previous owner let it run 15k miles without a change..., changed the cabin filter and air filter (swapped to a neuspeed intake shortly after, eyeing an enclosed setup to take advantage of the actually cold air lol), swapped front and rear end links, replaced spark plugs/coils, and will be replacing the cam follower soon as the shipment comes in. Inspected the brakes, brake fluid is clear and pads are more than 80% so won't be replacing those anytime soon (thoughts on going to a big brake kit?)
Still need to do: haldex service, tranny flush, coolant flush, replace diverter valve, replace OEM discharge pipe and charge pipe along with swapping the rear sway bar (can't do my front until I find a shop to lower the subframe).
Want to do: coilovers, downpipe, and stage 1 tune (modular, as I have lifetime powertrain warranty. Will go stage 2 once the clutch wears out and I upgrade a few more items, any help on what to upgrade before going to stage 2 i would appreciate). Not sure if I want to replace the stock catback as I am going more for performance than how the car sounds but open to ideas.

Does anyone know whether the wheel fenders can be bent upwards to widen the body of the car? Main issue I am having is during this 1-2 weeks of rain we get in Cali, the side of my car is caked in dirt/debris from the road as my front tires (between 1-3 o'clock) are kicking up and shooting everything towards the side of the car. See pic below (mudflaps were installed after the mud seen, did not improve much however. Seems to be when turning and the wheel is exposed)

Have done a few aesthetic interior/exterior mods but nothing huge. If anyone is selling a front bumper for cheap lemme know as I dislike the license plate in front:/. 4 huge holes its covering up tho from the license plate cover so going to leave as is for now.
Any other tips of mods to do let me know, cheers!

IMG_9180.jpg
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
Front fenders can be bent a little but by rolling. The rear will probably give you more trouble rolling wise as bumper might not align nicely afterwards. If you're game to cut and weld, it opens you options up. There are aftermarket options for wider front fenders too.

Shameless plug, I have some metal fender flares I was going to widebody with that I will no longer need, if interested. PM me and I can share more info. It'll add about 2.5" and will require some bodywork.
 

kevbass52

New member
Front fenders can be bent a little but by rolling. The rear will probably give you more trouble rolling wise as bumper might not align nicely afterwards. If you're game to cut and weld, it opens you options up. There are aftermarket options for wider front fenders too.

Shameless plug, I have some metal fender flares I was going to widebody with that I will no longer need, if interested. PM me and I can share more info. It'll add about 2.5" and will require some bodywork.
Might work out perfect as I had no intention of rolling the rears, don’t get the same spray action as the fronts do.

i wouldn’t mind something aftermarket as I wanna keep the car looking nice (didn’t like the fender flares with rivets due to damaging the wheel fender). Know any brands for aftermarket fenders? Been looking around and all I’ve found are carbon fiber ones. Don’t look awful but wanna keep the candy white paint on the car.
Might pass on cutting up the fenders lol but thank you I appreciate it.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
Might work out perfect as I had no intention of rolling the rears, don’t get the same spray action as the fronts do.

i wouldn’t mind something aftermarket as I wanna keep the car looking nice (didn’t like the fender flares with rivets due to damaging the wheel fender). Know any brands for aftermarket fenders? Been looking around and all I’ve found are carbon fiber ones. Don’t look awful but wanna keep the candy white paint on the car.
Might pass on cutting up the fenders lol but thank you I appreciate it.
I've seen some non-metal ones that are not CF but i can't find an example right now. there are members who have gotten the CF ones and painted them to match (look for Zef's build thread). Plenty of others have wrapped them to match as well.

I too am not a fan of the riveted overfender/flare look, which is why i bought those rear flares in metal.
 

Thumper

Autocross Champion
15k without an oil change? That person should be shot. Hopefully they did some DIY changes in between? I would send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs just to check the health and get a baseline.

BBK........unless you are tracking the car you don't need to go crazy with the brakes, I don't care how much power you have; if you're driving on the street it's unlikely that you are hammering the brakes from 100MPH+ every 15 seconds or so like you would on a track. If you are, the brakes are the least of your concerns, save the money for bail and bus fare. ;):cool: Doing a OEM+ upgrade with slotted rotors, aggressive pads to suit your needs on dust and noise, stainless steel lines, and a caliper bushing upgrade like the Tyrol sport and you're good for the street. Flush your fluid every year. You can have 1000 HP, and can go 0-60 in under 3 seconds but the fact is you're still doing.....60mph. Stopping from 60mph is stopping from 60mph.

Rolling the fenders is to bend up the little lip on the inside for tire clearance, if you do it right it will not change the angle or flare of the outer sheetmetal at all. The dirt on the side of the car is just what happens when it rains or snows. I know you guys in CA don't experience weather much LOL :LOL: but it's just life really. The spray is caused from the tire expelling water out the sides and spraying up and then air flow slams and sucks it back against the car. Even massive flares will not completely cure the problem because the issue is caused at the ground level. Massive Subaru style rally mud flaps sticking out a few inches and damn near dragging the ground would help.........but the water and dirt would then just get forced off the front of the flap around the side....to then press back up against the side of the car from the air flow around the car. It might keep the front doors cleaner but the rears would still get hit. The best thing to do is to get the car coated with a ceramic coating. Water beads and peels right off as you drive, really cuts down on that spray and a quick detail spray wipe down or even just a self spray wash rinses the rest away easy.
 

kevbass52

New member
15k without an oil change? That person should be shot. Hopefully they did some DIY changes in between? I would send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs just to check the health and get a baseline.

BBK........unless you are tracking the car you don't need to go crazy with the brakes, I don't care how much power you have; if you're driving on the street it's unlikely that you are hammering the brakes from 100MPH+ every 15 seconds or so like you would on a track. If you are, the brakes are the least of your concerns, save the money for bail and bus fare. ;):cool: Doing a OEM+ upgrade with slotted rotors, aggressive pads to suit your needs on dust and noise, stainless steel lines, and a caliper bushing upgrade like the Tyrol sport and you're good for the street. Flush your fluid every year. You can have 1000 HP, and can go 0-60 in under 3 seconds but the fact is you're still doing.....60mph. Stopping from 60mph is stopping from 60mph.

Rolling the fenders is to bend up the little lip on the inside for tire clearance, if you do it right it will not change the angle or flare of the outer sheetmetal at all. The dirt on the side of the car is just what happens when it rains or snows. I know you guys in CA don't experience weather much LOL :LOL: but it's just life really. The spray is caused from the tire expelling water out the sides and spraying up and then air flow slams and sucks it back against the car. Even massive flares will not completely cure the problem because the issue is caused at the ground level. Massive Subaru style rally mud flaps sticking out a few inches and damn near dragging the ground would help.........but the water and dirt would then just get forced off the front of the flap around the side....to then press back up against the side of the car from the air flow around the car. It might keep the front doors cleaner but the rears would still get hit. The best thing to do is to get the car coated with a ceramic coating. Water beads and peels right off as you drive, really cuts down on that spray and a quick detail spray wipe down or even just a self spray wash rinses the rest away easy.
Yeah I’m still waiting to get the results from black stone. Was pretty irritated since the previous owner literally worked at the dealership...
Doesn’t seem like they did much to it tbh everything was stock when I got it.
We shall see what they saw. I did a second oil change less than 1k miles later and was still somewhat black. Gonna send that 2nd sample in prob next week.

Finally changed the cam follower! Didn’t look too bad from the pics.

yeah no intention to track it, more of a street performance weekend driver car. Defff will save up for BBK. Toss up between upgrading the brakes first or suspension lol
Sweet yeah I Deff am not gonna slam the car so don’t need to roll the fender. I’ll look into ceramic coatings also! Thank you for the info!! Definitely blessed to only have 2 types of weather here in California haha so it’s not super important to mehhh was just mildly annoying having to get it washed right after I had it washed lol.

I’ve flushed all my fluids except coolant and brake. Waiting on another 5-10k.

Beyond that I’m saving up for a Jb4 stage 1 tune
 

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Thumper

Autocross Champion
Little bit of weird wear on the follower but yeah not bad, I am sure it was changed at least once at some point since it's 100k. lol
 
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